Ken Ross Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Hello All, I am new to this forum and in search of help deciding on a finish to use on the Cherry cabinets I am building. I have read through the posts on finishing and found that this subject comes up regularly. I have also noticed that there is a huge amount of experience and knowledge here. My experience in wood working in my opinion would be considered "beginner" but I have been around woodworkers my whole life and by taking my time and researching diligently before a new technique is used I do pretty well. The lot of Cherry that I bought is exceptionally colorful and full of beautifully contoured grain. While I have approx. 25% over the BF that I need, try as I might I just can't find more that compares. So in other words, I don't want to screw this up! I don't plan to use stain but I may finish building the pieces and then set everything in the sun a day or two before finishing. I really like the results I get from Waterlox but want a satin finish for the cabinets. I don't have the facility for a cat. Laquer and have never used a poly on this large of a scale and don't necessarily care for the look of a high build that I see with poly. Hoping that some of you folks may be able to point this beginner in the right direction. I am including a photo of the first phase of my kitchen remodel project. The island is meant to be an accent piece. The top and legs are made of mesquite with a Waterlox finish. I really like the finish but want the Cherry to be satin but have the same " close to wood" type look. Thanks for any help you can give. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Wow, island looks good ! So what specifically are you asking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Yea, if you did the island, you got it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Do the same you did on the island top then let it cure for a few days and rub it back to a satin with a grey abrasive pad. Yeah I know it's a lot of work, what did you expect a magic cure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 ==>I don't have the facility for a cat. Laquer This translates to, "Don't have spray gear?" How much experience with Cherry do your have? The big issue is that Cherry can vary lot-to-lot... With smaller work, this is usually not a big issue -- you can usually source a couple hundred bf from a single lot... The issue is larger projects where there is probability of all the stocks from the same lot is low... It's the lot-to-lot variation that can be the issue... Allowable sap is also not set in stone -- how to you intend to deal with it? Some love it, some hate it. If you've been poking around, you know that Cherry can be terribly blotch prone... This varies lot to lot... I'd test some off-cuts to see what you're up-against... That may drive certain schedules... In general (and not to put too fine a point on it), I view coloring Cherry to be the work of the anti-Christ... However, a light equalizer tint can be very useful when dealing with a wall of cabinets or built-ins to even-out lot-to-lot variations... The goal is to step-back and see a harmonious tone across the project... I can send you both a WB and alchohol-based toner formulas... BTW: I'm with the others -- nice island... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Ross Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 WdWerker, Thanks for the reply. I was looking for suggestions for the finish on the Cherry. I'm just not sure about using poly for the satin sheen. Trying to avoid the plastic look.Have to admit that I have zero experience with wipe on poly though. Maybe it would produce better results? Waterlox does have a product that claims to be satin but I have heard that it is still pretty glossy and not as user friendly. Would a Tung oil finish hold up to conditions of a kitchen? Is it possible to use a Tung oil or similar for the color and then use satin poly as a finish for protection? Finishing is my area of least experience. I have done several test pieces and still not satisfied with any that I have tried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Ross Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Triple H, This is my first project with Cherry. I did do a few test pieces with various finishes. Cell. Laquer, Waterlox, Shellac etc.. I didn't see to much blotching. In fact it looked really good with the oil finish. Just concerned about the finish holding up around the stove and sink area.If I am careful I believe I have enough lumber on hand. All from the same lot, but my overage is only about 25%. My lack of experience in a project of this size makes me worry that May not be enough so I have kept my eye out for lumber that would match what I already have. I actually like the sap. The kitchen will have a bit of a rustic look anyway. I don't plan on staining. I agree with your opinion of coloring. In fact the few times I have stained other types of wood, I rarely like the result as opposed to a natural finish. I do have a spray set up but no booth. For the island I built a small enclosure in my garage and got by ,but for this part of the project I would need a much larger space. Thanks for your reply. I appreciate the imput. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Ross Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 WdWerker, With finishing there are definitely no magic cures for me. This is where I struggle the most. I had considered rubbing out the Waterlox but was concerned about that finish around the stove and the sink area. The other concern was that it is such a thin finish. Would I be able to get that satin finish without compromising its ability to protect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 The Waterlox I have used is not a finish I would use in a kitchen. I typically use waterbourne acrylic finishes so I will leave the recommendation of finish choice to the other guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 ==>I did do a few test pieces with various finishes. Cell. Laquer, Waterlox, Shellac etc.. I didn't see to much blotching. You're not going to get 'obvious' blotching with topcoats -- you'll get the differential absorption, but it's less visible... But, differential absorption of a topcoat may leave light/dark regions... You may love the look, you may not -- up to you -- Well, let' be honest, it's up to the wife... On samples: 99.99% of woodworkers will take a 12"x12" off-cut, finish it, then use that 1bf sample to make a determination for 2Kbf of built-ins... I know you're tight on stock, but if you take a 4/4-heavy, lightly mill, sand and finish -- you can get yourself a nice sample board, then plane-off 1/16" and use it in your project... One thing of scrap/wastage: 25% could be fine, or it could be woefully short... Just depends on the stock and what type of defects your wife is willing to live with... You'd better think-through your strategy in case you run short... The worst thing is to get to the end and find you're two sticks short... Make the highly-visible components first, and the less-visible last -- so if you have to purchase an additional stick or three, they won't be used for the door panels... Lesson-learned: don't kill yourself trying to squeeze every last sqin from every last stick... I had that mindset when I first started and learned over time that it's a false economy... With a 'wood-hoarder' mindset, you end-up compromising the project... Typically, you talk-yourself into accepting unpleasing grain patterns, defects in the stock, etc --- these will grate on you years down the line... I'm not saying every panel has to be perfect -- far from it. Defects can give a piece character. But there's a big difference incorporating defects to add character because you choose to -vs- incorporating defects because you have to... ==>I don't plan on staining. While it's technically 'staining', an equalizer tone coat is really there to even things out a bit, not fundamentally assign a new color... The reason they're used for built-ins/cabinets/etc is that you see the work as a whole... So individual natural variations may yield a pleasing look, they can also yield a not-so-pleasing look. The pros shoot an equalizer to minimize the chances for 'not-so-pleasing'... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Ross Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 TripleH, You make a lot of good points. Including who actually has the final say! Trouble is many times she gives me the old, I'm not sure or Um yeah I guess that's fine. Both of which, in varying degrees mean back to the drawing board. The toner or equalizer sounds like a good idea. Does that involve using a tint in the clear top coat? Wdwerker had mentioned an acrylic finish. Would that be suitable in your opinion? I can relate to your " wood hoarder " comments. These cabinets are going in my home and I will look at them everyday. I could never live with a reminder that I didn't perform to the best of my abilities. If I run short, I run short and I will deal with it when the time comes. I sure appreciate your imput. Lots of good advice and you have brought up issues that I should have been paying more attention to as I headed down this road. Focus is much clearer. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 See if there is a floor finisher in your area that has some leftovers of Bona Mega floor finish. It comes in about five different finishes. I forget the names, but the most matt one looks like bare wood. It's VERY durable being made for floors, and easy to touch up. It's not made for rubbing on, but you can put some in a clean plastic water bottle, and use it to keep a rag wet for rubbing on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weithman5 Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 if you like the oil finish that is what i would use. it should hold up okay on cabinetry and it is easy to re apply if you need to periodically. throw a scrap on the counter and beat the hell out of it for the next few weeks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinF Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 Nothing to add but that island is freaking gorgeous!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Ross Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 Thanks Eizzle, that's a solid 3 months of working weekends and nights in my garage. Small shop with not the best of tools..working on improving that everyday. Thanks again. Nice to know others think my work is turning out well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry_in_SD Posted July 10, 2014 Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 Nothing to add but that island is freaking gorgeous!!! I second that motion. I love all the character in that top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinF Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Thanks Eizzle, that's a solid 3 months of working weekends and nights in my garage. Small shop with not the best of tools..working on improving that everyday. Thanks again. Nice to know others think my work is turning out well.i know the feeling on the not so best tools... I think we are all working on that one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Ken, The island looks fantastic. Where did you get that much mesquite? I love that stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Ross Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 K COOPER, Thanks! I bought the lumber from a rancher in Southern Az. Cutting Mesquite is part of his range management program and he has been milling and selling it. Az native mesquite is called velvet mesquite. It is really beautiful and not bad to work with although getting large pieces is difficult. Cracks and imperfections are always present. To me it just adds to the character. I chose to fill the voids with epoxy and a small amount of turquoise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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