carving/shaping recessed areas


Rvlewis

Recommended Posts

Hey all, new to this forum and thought I'd start by throwing this general question out there:

 

I realize the high volume shops would use CNC for this type of stuff, but what hand and/or power tools do you think a small shop could use to shape the recessed areas of something like this guitar body?

I am not looking to build that guitar specifically, but am a custom guitar builder and would like to do similar shaping on an upcoming project.

 

Thanks in advance for any info that helps point me in the right direction.

post-16432-0-50600600-1416191198_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forums..

 

Certainly the CNC would work perfectly for that application and there are less expensive models on the market now.  However, you could also set up jigs and use a router to do it as well.  You could also look at power carving as an option as well.  Take a look thru Marc's videos on power carving if you're not familiar with the process..  

 

Good luck!  Hope you stick around and show us some of your work!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the quick replies all.  We are pretty well setup for any perimeter shaping though bandsaw, coping, rasps, router, etc.

 

The interior recessed stuff was particularly troubling, though.  I thought about router jigs and templates, which may still be an option in some cases, but I think I'll look into the power carving for sure.  Just got back from Arbortech's web site, and like what I see of the mini grinder.

 

I'm relieved to hear that I don't have to hog this type of project out with small chisels and gouges, and firing up my chainsaw seemed a bit extreme...

 

Seriously, I do appreciate the help, and I'll certainly stick around and return the favor with whatever knowledge/experience I may have...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's hard to tell exactly what is going on there with just that one photo to go by, but I think you could get pretty close with a router and template if the template were ramped up towards the neck, sort of like the way the tapered grooves are done on Greene & Greene legs.  Then you could come in with the power carving where needed to round it more.  If it's something you'd want to be able to reproduce later that would give you a starting point to make it more consistent rather than have to carve the whole thing each time.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's hard to tell exactly what is going on there with just that one photo to go by, but I think you could get pretty close with a router and template if the template were ramped up towards the neck, sort of like the way the tapered grooves are done on Greene & Greene legs.  Then you could come in with the power carving where needed to round it more.  If it's something you'd want to be able to reproduce later that would give you a starting point to make it more consistent rather than have to carve the whole thing each time.

First, I have to admit to googling "Greene & Greene", but now I see what you mean about ramping up at the neck with a template. Pretty good idea, because although we do almost entirely one-of-a-kind pieces, I am constantly making templates just in case we do need a two-of-a-kind someday. In the end, think a template for the basic cut followed by power carving to shape is the right procedure for us.

Thanks again to everyone for their input. It's been a huge help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Minus doing this by hand and using the "eyeball" method, you will need to set up a duplicarver. 

 

73m.jpg

 

 

edit: thats if you're planning on making more than one of these. I do carved tops with sandpaper and flap wheels. Pretty simple process to be blunt, mark out with pencil, and take your time. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Minus doing this by hand and using the "eyeball" method, you will need to set up a duplicarver. 

 

73m.jpg

 

 

edit: thats if you're planning on making more than one of these. I do carved tops with sandpaper and flap wheels. Pretty simple process to be blunt, mark out with pencil, and take your time.

Very cool. Never saw one of those duplicarvers.

Do you final shape only with the flap wheels, or do you use them from start to finish? I've never actually used a flap wheel before, so I'm not sure of their capabilities.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very cool. Never saw one of those duplicarvers.

Do you final shape only with the flap wheels, or do you use them from start to finish? I've never actually used a flap wheel before, so I'm not sure of their capabilities.

 

 

flap wheel is a rough cut process. The rest is done with sanding, 80 - 320 grit before finishing. 

 

this was done with flap wheel and a power sander for example 

 

pPYKwPZ.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

flap wheel is a rough cut process. The rest is done with sanding, 80 - 320 grit before finishing. 

 

this was done with flap wheel and a power sander for example 

 

pPYKwPZ.jpg

 

Very nice work Bob. What is that timber or is it some fancy finishing technique? I've used the Schaller Hannes bridge a few times too. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice work Bob. What is that timber or is it some fancy finishing technique? I've used the Schaller Hannes bridge a few times too. 

 

as much as I'd love to take credit for this, this beauty was built by a friend of mine. I don't do much beyond traditional super strat/tele shapes, but the process is the same. That particular one is a one piece redwood top with a slight amber stain, ebony binding (yes ebony, not black plastic!), korina body,  maple neck, ebony fret board, and ebony and redwood headstock cap. Finish is nitro (as much as I begged him not to haha). Just one in particular I know the build process on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as much as I'd love to take credit for this, this beauty was built by a friend of mine. I don't do much beyond traditional super strat/tele shapes, but the process is the same. That particular one is a one piece redwood top with a slight amber stain, ebony binding (yes ebony, not black plastic!), korina body,  maple neck, ebony fret board, and ebony and redwood headstock cap. Finish is nitro (as much as I begged him not to haha). Just one in particular I know the build process on.

definitely a nice piece of work, for sure.  I like the redwood top - not something you see every day.

 

Thanks for the info on flap wheels.  Will have to look into those as well...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 53 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    31.2k
    Total Topics
    422.2k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    23,784
    Total Members
    3,644
    Most Online
    walo47
    Newest Member
    walo47
    Joined