Hall Table Journal


davewyo

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Thanks Kev.

I was trying to be friendly but overstepped some pretty obvious boundaries.

I wasn't thinking clearly and I mostly feel bad that I involved Ken.

That was doubly wrong.

 

So anyway...like woodworking,I learned something and I'll not make that blunder again.

 

Everyone makes mistakes bud!  Don't let it bother you too much!

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Thanks again.

 

If all this sounds super cryptic and you weren't playing along at the time...

 

This morning I proposed sending off some copyrighted material.

It amounts to piracy and is not only illegal but is way out of line when it comes to WTO.

I humbly submit my apologies to all of you, even if you weren't aware it happened.

I don't mean to crap in your nest.

I appreciate the warm welcome I have been given by this community.

 

BTW, there is no reason to reply to this and hijack the thread. :)

If you have questions, PM me.

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Hey Dave, hijack away, it's your thread!

Don't be concerned about me, I wasn't even thinking either and I usually don't pay attention to the speed limit anyway, but will here from now on.

Wonder if we're the first to get warnings. Probably a subject for another thread?

Now, back to the Hall Table!

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Right you are Ken!

I have been working out an actual plan with measurements for the side rails and I've kind of been wracking my brain.

The back of envelope drawing I've been working with isn't highly detailed.

I just couldn't figure out the shape and I don't see how screwing the top in through the rails is going to allow for much seasonal movement. I guess after I counter-bore and drill from the bottom I can go in from the top and wiggle the drill back and forth. That'll have to do.

My wife said; "Maybe you should put on your sawdust-filled Carharts...Those clothes you're wearing don't have good woodworking juju."

http://IMG_0792_zps79a06144.jpg

So, that done, I'm watching the Tim Rousseau videos of the hall table with floating top.

 

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Dave, have you posted your plans for the top? What I see so far is just begging for a middle to far eastern look, something with upswept corners, maybe. This design is really getting my attention, can't wait to see the final product!

Ross (I think it is, please forgive me if I have it wrong), that's a good question, I haven't put up anything on the top yet.

I paid this:

http://IMG_0794_zps37dec36b.jpg

For this:

http://IMG_0778_zps6fbca777.jpg

BTW: that's 1$ cheaper than it was the last time I got a quote.

 

They are currently 13/16th" so It's going to be a slim top.

It's surfaced two sides, but their blades were not sharp so I have some tear-out to deal with.

I will be lucky to end up with 3/4" and it's more realistic to think that I will end up with 5/8", but I'm shooting for 3/4".

I may go back and buy some more stock with sap wood to make a pleasing match. That;s something I want.Bu

t I won't get anything thicker unless I special order it.

 

I was thinking I would put a slight "shallow" bevel on the underside of the top, but I'm open to anything.

After all, it's a design-on-the-go project, so it can go anywhere...

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At 9 $ a BF nobody is ever super-duper "happy" but, yeah, I'm good with it...

The prices are what they are(for here), and I can choose to pay the "market price" or not...

I can certainly see why people charge what they do for custom stuff around here.

 

I want to get a lot of sap wood into the top to pull it in with the color of the Alder base.

I haven't completely decided on "light stripe down the middle" or "dark in the middle and stripe along the edges" but I'm leaning towards the second choice.

That will work itself out (I hope) during the "what am I going to do stage".

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Mmmm, yep $9 / bf is a bit pricey for my locale. I was going to suggest a mail-order place like Bell Forest or Hardwood to Go, but shipping would probably make it a wash anyway.

Sometimes it amazes me that retailers markup more for a domestic that comes from a few hundred miles away, than for many exotics from a totally different continent.

I like the sapwood streaking, it should make for a lot of interest in your table.

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Depends on the size and grade of the board. 1/6th to 1/4 of the face is allowed for sapwood in some sizes and grades. Better width and grade boards may have sapwood on the back but should be heartwood on the face. NHLA standards for walnut go on for several paragraphs.

I think the rules for cherry are similar but also deal with sap pockets as well as light sapwood.

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Better width and grade boards may have sapwood on the back but should be heartwood on the face.

The other face of those boards have much less sapwood.

I picked through the small stack that they have on hand and intentionally selected the two that had the most sapwood.

Much of what was there is bowed or twisted. It's probably the rejected leftovers from a large order that was made in the past.

There is still a couple of nice boards in there, or parts of boards, but it would be nice if someone ordered in another bundle.

 

As you purchase more material from them, you'll probably get a better price as well.  After some time getting to know the staff and establishing yourself, you'll start getting the "contractor" price which helps.

Yes, they sometimes give me 10% off. I think contractors get 15%.

I'm not sure but it may be triggered by me spending more than $200.

There are something like a half dozen guys who work the lumber desk and they are starting to get to know me.

I make sure I don't mess up their lumber piles, and I lay my boards out so they can easily throw a tape measure on them, so they know I'm a "regular".

 

While the price seems prohibitive to someone in a larger city, my biggest problem is the small selection.

I'm in a resort town with a population of 10K people (a boom town with lots of trophy houses) so everything is more expensive.

But the thing that gets to you is that nothing much is available (in stock).

I have to drive 70 miles over two mountain passes just to go to a Lowes or Home Depot.

 

I'm a big fan of mail order, but I prefer to get a look at my lumber if possible.

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I can understand your position now. Resort town buyers are either well to do hobbiests or pros working for well to do clients. Plus convience is a factor when you are facing long drives.

Your boards were probably graded based on the other face. Flat, straight and appealing to you is the most important.

I think your sapwood out plan might look very good with the alder.

Eager to see your curves and top progress.

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