Matticus Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Hi, I've looked at all the posts I could find about how to wire the Jet JJP-12HH, but am still unsure how to do it in my situation. I'd like to use my 4 prong dryer outlet, but am unsure what to do about the 2 hot lines. It's two hots, a neutral, and a ground. The wire that comes with the tool is a white, black, and green. All in 14 gauge. I'm assuming the black is hot, the white is neutral, and the green is ground, correct? I was going to make a 14 gauge extension cord (b/c the motor says it runs at 13 amps) with a 4 prong dryer plug on the end, but not sure if I can just combine the two hot lines into the 1 black wire of the extension cord. Also, I would have thought that I'd need a bigger wire than 14 gauge if Jet says they want a 30amp outlet, but that's the cable they provided. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Someone will respond with a definitive answer on this (I am not an expert), but if it is 220, you need two hots. Unless that supplied wire was intended as 110v, both the black and white would be hots. It is common practice among electricians to put some red tape on the white wire to make this clear. The green is ground, there is no neutral. I googled 3-4 220v converter and it looks like you can buy something that will make the plugs compatible without messing with the wiring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Also, I recall when I got my get jet table saw, there was a table to suggest the wire size based upon how long the cord was. I'll see if I can look it up for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 I guess I lied about about the wire table in the manual. For what it is worth I used 10 for my table saw which is probably overkill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matticus Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Ah, the double hots makes sense. Of course, it would have been too easy for Jet just to use a red wire instead of a white one. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 White should be neutral in the outlet. For the tool wire, black and white are each hot, green ground, and no neutral needed. Three wire typically comes Black, White, and Green, so it would actually not be that easy for them to use black, red, green. You can use a 4 prong dryer male plug on the tool, and just not have a wire going to the neutral plug, with no worries at all. I have the same type of receptacle in one shop for a welder, which needs the neutral for the 120v electronics circuitry (which is the exact same reason a dryer outlet needs a neutral for 120v to work), and 240v for the welding. I unplug it and plug in the same type plug wired with three wires, as mentioned, when I want to run the big bandsaw. I don't need to weld and run a woodcutting bandsaw at the same time, and previously did not do woodworking in that shop, but needed enough space to back the truck up to the bandsaw. 110v and 220v is old speak for the same thing we know today as 120v and 240v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matticus Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 That makes sense. This is all super helpful info. Thanks so much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Use a volt meter on each wire just to be sure. Don't trust the last guy when it comes to wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Absolutely on the checking with a meter. On those 4 wire plugs, typically the bottom lug is ground (the one with the shape to it other than flat), the ones on each side are hot, and the top is neutral. It would be a good idea to take the cover off the dryer receptacle so you can see where the ground and neutral are. The white wire should be neutral. Without looking, you won't be able to tell which is ground and which is neutral with a meter. You should get 120v from either of the side ones to ground or neutral, and 240v between both the side ones. If you use a 4 prong plug for the tool, leave the neutral lug out of the plug, and caulk the hole to keep bugs out. With some of those plugs, the blades depend on a wire being attached to keep it from flopping around, which would make it aggravating to plug and unplug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cygnus A Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 I have the same dilemma and found one of the members here sketched out what to do. I am building my own extension chord from my unused dyer outlet into the garage that will have 2x 220v and 2x 110v outlets. My dryer outlest is just on the opposite side of the garage wall so I am punching a hole to run through. (Link to his site showing what he actually built) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 3 minutes ago, Cygnus A said: I have the same dilemma and found one of the members here sketched out what to do. I am building my own extension chord from my unused dyer outlet into the garage that will have 2x 220v and 2x 110v outlets. My dryer outlest is just on the opposite side of the garage wall so I am punching a hole to run through. (Link to his site showing what he actually built) In North America the voltage standard is 120/240V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cygnus A Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 25 minutes ago, drzaius said: In North America the voltage standard is 120/240V. Good catch, although that doesn't make any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 48 minutes ago, Cygnus A said: Good catch, although that doesn't make any difference. No, the whole 110/220V thing is just one of my pet irritants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 My first job when I was an early teenager was helping an electrician. That was in 1963. I don't know if the voltages then were different than they are now, or not, but everyone of the generation behind me only ever called it 110, and 220. I still do too, unless I stop and think about it. I never heard anyone my Dad's age, or older, say anything but 110, and 220. That's why I call it "old speak" for what we call, today, 120 and 240. I feel fortunate that I completely disregarded the change from 110/220 in code to 115/230. I'm pretty sure there are still some old motors from the '50s here somewhere with 110v stamped on the motor label. Maybe those old guys remembered when Tesla first started sending AC through wires. In any case, I don't know of any of them that had a digital multi-meter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 I've been an electrician since 1975 & even then the old timers (electricians) called it 120/240. But among the philistines (non-electricians) 110/220 was & is still what is almost always used. I'm just trying to correct the world 1 sad little post at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 24, 2016 Report Share Posted June 24, 2016 I was curious, so I did a bit more reading on it. They started standardizing all the lines to 120 at the supply point in the 1930's, since they were getting some noticeable loss over wire distances. They wanted to make sure the end user had 115 by the time it got there. It makes sense that old timers in 1975 would have known nothing but 120, since if they had been fooling with it for 40 years, it would have still been after the change to 120. Guys like Mr. Edwin Williams, that I worked for, and my Dad probably started fooling with it in the '20s, when they were probably lucky if they had 110 volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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