PWStoddard Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 My project is to refinish the Douglas Fir trim around two skylights in the interior of my home. I'm now down to bare wood, but I'm uncertain as to what product to use. The wood is subject to considerable sunlight--moisture and abrasion are not issues. One of these skylights is at a height of 20 feet, so I'm looking for a product that will stand up well, and especially one that can be easily refreshed from time to time. I take it for granted that there's no such thing as a maintenance free product! I'm leaning toward Danish Oil with no other coating over it. The idea being to avoid a clear coat that would require sanding/stripping. However I understand the Danish Oil to contain a mixture of oil and varnish; the presence of the varnish has me concerned. Will I be able simply to clean the surface and reapply the Danish Oil when the time comes? No stripping, no sanding? Any guess at how often I might have to refresh? Thanks so much for your advice and expertise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 I wouldn't use danish oil. I think you would end up with a finish that attacks dust and such. I am not sure I understand your "easily refreshed from time to time" concerns. If you used something like General Finishes High Performance which is a water bourne finish that won't yellow, you shouldn't have any reason to sand and strip it over time unless you want to. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 I have done trim with Danish Oil like you are describing. It's easy to scrub a bit with an abrasive pad (gray) and wipe on a fresh coat. It does dry slowly and smell for several days. It's good at collecting dust too. If you buff the surface after the oil/varnish completely cures this minimizes dust attraction. It really doesn't create much of a sheen. These days I only use Danish Oil on small pieces . The smell and drying time deters most of my clients. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWStoddard Posted February 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Chet K, thanks for your comments. Seems like the jury is still out based on the two replies so far. I did look into General Finishes High Performance, and it appears to have the highest of recommendations. I'm concerned that with time even the best finish will deteriorate, although I'm not sure how long that would take. But with the urethane coating, wouldn't that entail stripping, etc.? By "easily refreshed from time to time," I mean when the finish begins to show signs of deterioration I would be able to simply clean the surface and apply another coat. The danger would be in letting the deterioration progress to the point where I'd have to strip, etc. I'm quite the novice but believe in doing things right, hopefully gathering some good advice from others like yourself. Thanks for replying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 I think that you will find that over time the GF high Performance will hold up extremely well. There are a number of people that use it on their fine woodworking projects, myself included and don't use it thinking that we'll have to go over it again down the road because it is deteriorating. Even if you did it would be a simple matter of washing it down, give it a light sanding and apply another coat. General Finishes is a top notch product and I think you will find that most people here use their products more often then not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 i just got done refinishing the douglas fir trim in three bedrooms and a hallway, if you're going to stain it don't go to fine of a grit if you want the stain to penetrate, @Chet K is right on, go with GF High Performance and you won't have any problem for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 If this were me, I would find and use an oil-based stain. Topcoat with an oil-based topcoat. Years down the road when the trim becomes a little bleached from the sun. Simply clean the trim with mineral spirits and go right over it with the same stain to bring the tone back. You can even re-topcoat if you desire. Very simple and it's done all the time, it's called glazing. Matter of fact reminds me I need to do this around my kitchen window. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 26 minutes ago, AceHoleInOne said: Matter of fact reminds me I need to do this around my kitchen window. careful Ace, thats how i got into that last refinishing job 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 18 minutes ago, treeslayer said: careful Ace, thats how i got into that last refinishing job yeah...I'm getting that "why don't we paint" the kitchen cabinets, that's what everyone is doing, we need to "modernize." WHAT, you want to ruin those nice blonde oak cabinets that gives warmth to our kitchen with cold looking "PAINT" -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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