Salad Bowl or Mineral Oil first?


cornballbub

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Hi,
 
Your site is very cool... I check it every now and then and build a board for a neighbor or
friend. (hey that may rhyme) :)

Maybe someone can help me with this dilemma;
A friend can't decide on the finish for a maple cutting board, salad bowl or mineral oil?...which can I
use and apply first, but still be able to remove (or go right over or sand or...) with the
other if I decide? (choosy neighbor)

Thanks
CB
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For cutting surfaces you want to use an oil.  BLO or Mineral Oil will both work. 

 

Boiled Linseed Oil will be a bit more expensive but also more durable.  It has an tint to it, so it will alter the color of the wood more than mineral oil.

 

Mineral Oil is extremely cost effective.  Don't waste your money at a wood working store for it though.  Go to walmart, and get it out of the pharmacy.  It's like $2 a bottle. 

 

Personally, I would go with an oil mixed with beeswax.  It's easy to refinish and very durable. You can buy it pre-mixed at a big box store, or pickup a block of beeswax from a craft store (hobby lobby type place), melt it in a double boiler (small pan, floating in large pan with boiling water) and then mix in Oil.  For a 1lbs block of wax you'll probably want 2 or 3 bottles (16oz - 24 oz) of mineral oil.  This would make enough for hundreds of cutting boards, so only go this route if you plan to make more food safe items in the future. (It lasts forever)

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I dont want to seem ungreatful CH, but that didnt answer my question...let me explain.

 

Just as The Wood Whisperer (http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com) I offer two finishes for the maple cutting boards I make;

 

- Salad Bowl Finish by General Finishes or

- Mineral OIl aka "plan old"

 

The basic difference is the salad bowl finish is some what glossy and the mineral oil kinda flat.  The customer in this case is unsure of the finish they would like.  What I need to know is which I could apply first and then later change to the other, EASILY if needed.?

 

CB

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I agree with Chris about the difficulty going between these finishes. In my opinion, it is worse to go from mineral oil to a varnish product though, primarily because the oil never really cures. It just absorbs, wears off on food, and washes off with cleanings. 

 

If you use the varnish method I recommend in the video, you shouldn't really end up with a strong shine. The idea is to seal the end grain taking care NOT to develop a film. Because the wood is never completely sealed, you actually can eventually begin using mineral oil to maintain the board if you want to. The mineral oil never cures anyway so if the wood is partially sealed, it won't make a difference. Well, other than the fact that the board won't accept nearly as much oil as a raw board will. 


Here's a link to an article I wrote on the topic explaining my personal viewpoint in a lot more depth: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/cutting-board-finish/

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Especially on a big board I would use the salad bowl finish first to seal the board from soaking up water, juices etc. You could lightly sand the surface and use either product long term for maintaining it. I see little difference in appearance between the 2 other than sheen which can be knocked back with a Scotch brite pad.

Marc is right about " master ". I'm still learning after 35 years woodworking, but I have gotten good at hiding my mistakes!

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I love everyone's modesty on this forum, or is that just the new way of eluding responsibliity?  Hmm

 

wdwerker,

Ever looked in detail at your finished project and said to yourself "wow, its great" then think "how the heck did that happen?"  That's the best and I believe the mark of a true professional. :)

 

Marc,

This is not an end grain board.  Make any difference?

 

Score: 1 vote oil, 1 vote SB...

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I wish I could go with Aces sample idea, except this board is countertop

sized and I dont think one would get the full affect.  Maybe I could make

samples and experiment to see if it possible to change from one finish to the

other...Science!

 

Then use a larger scrap :) or heck even a board...I understand it costs money...but how many times have we all cut a board too short or miter the wrong way ....that cost money too!!!! Lot better than using the actual project as a test piece ;). This is so true with any finish.

 

-Ace-

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In general, I don't like to use the varnishing technique on anything BUT end grain. Problem is, you have a bit of a different situation when you're talking about a full countertop. Now we're talking about possible repeated water exposure on a daily basis. Unless the person truly intends to use the countertop as a primary cutting surface, I'd go with the more water-resistant product for the sake of longevity. Then I'd take some leftover scraps from the project and make them a beautiful cutting board. :) 

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Marc, So, thats one vote for each... :wacko:

 

For a long grain, countertop sized, cutting board;

 

     - Main use cutting = Mineral Oil finish

     - Main use countertop = Salad Bowl/varnish finish

 

Am I hearing your suggestions correctly?

 

 

I would concur with that statement.

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Hey!?  That's it?  I still need help!  Please....

 

Anyway, if you're out there....ya'all...?

 

Since this is countertop, and will be mounted  to a cabinet, if I go with the MO finish need the underside be finished with MO too?

 

...and I dont wanna hear about mounting techniques aka: expanision/contraction etc.etc...blah...blah...of course if you have hands on experience I guess it cant hurt (I'm a virgin, so go easy) this is my first... :)  Let me know

 

Gotta get this finished...

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What else would you like to know? The properties of both mineral oil and varnish are pretty well-established and were reviewed already in this thread. The only thing left to do is make a decision. :) If there is something you aren't clear on, feel free to ask. But I think the reason the responses have stopped is because there isn't a whole lot more to say about it.

 

To answer your question above, I probably would finish both sides equally. Although because you only get one shot at the underside, you might be better off with a more protective finish for the sake of longevity and sealing. That then begs the question, will having a sealed underside cause movement issues when the top side is not sealed, or at least only treated with mineral oil? That's a great question. Glad I asked it. I have no idea, lol. 

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