What's the right blade for ripping 8/4 maple?

[Chuck Melton]

I have a couple of different blades for my table saw and I am picking up some 8/4 maple and purpleheart tomorrow.

 

I am going to be ripping it and I want to get some blade advice. My tablesaw is only 8" at 3/4 hp (it's a vintage 1952 motor, so from what I have read it's probably closer to 1.5 HP in todays terms). I typically leave a 60 tooth finish blade in it and that has served me well for ripping plywood, pine, and some 4/4 maple. The blades that I have that have fewer teeth and more gullet to them are marked as being framing blades. Should I swap to one of these? I do have a blade that says it is a ripping blade but it isn't carbide tipped so I am hesitant to use it (it doesn't look like it has ever been used).

 

Thanks again for any advice. This community has been really supportive even though I have been blowing up the forums with newbie questions.

[Chuck Melton]

I could potentially also rip it on a 14" band saw, but the one I have is a Delta bench top with no fence on it, so I'd have to rig one up.

[Timberwerks]

This should do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R008-Ripping-PermaShield-Coating/dp/B00004T7PO

[wdwerker]

DJO is right on the money! That is a great blade for ripping!

Another trick to ripping thick hard stock on a small saw is to rip halfway through the thickness in one pass then raise the blade and finish the cut. Sometimes it leaves a tiny ridge in the middle. Rip the pieces 1/32 too wide then re-rip in one pass to get the smoothest cut. Keep your blade clean, pitch build up causes burns and dulls the blade as well.

[Chuck Melton]

Thanks guys. I just went ahead and ordered it (Don't tell my wife...)

 

$33 is a pretty good deal. I have a new 8" 60 tooth blade from freud that I was debating whether I should keep (It was 50ish bucks at home depot). I have been using a 60 tooth 7.25 thin kerf and it has cut really well.

[Eric.]

Save the 60T for plywood or crosscutting thin stock.  The saw you're using is pretty underpowered to be cutting any hardwood with more than 40T.  I'd look into a decent thin kerf combo blade to become your "everyday" blade.  The rip blade DJO recommended is about the best you can do with your saw for rips.

 

AND...before you go ripping that 8/4 HM, do yourself a favor and make sure your fence is perfectly square to your blade...for your saw and lumber's sake, and for your safety.  HM is a beast.

[knotscott]

I fear that your "framing" blade is a low quality construction blade, even if it's carbide tipped.  Shell out the money for something like a 24T (22T) thin kerf Freud rip blade like DJO linked to, or an Irwin Marples, CMT, Infinity, DW Precision Trim equivalent.  A good blade is the best money you can spend on any saw.  Make a clock out of the new steel blade.

 

Tips for picking saw blades

[Chuck Melton]

The fence on my starter saw does leave a bit to be desired. I take a square to it after every adjustment.

 

The boss wants to see something come out of my newly indulged woodworking hobby before I spend any serious money on tools. A better table saw is right at the top of the list. I will say that this old Delta that I am using does seem to cut better than newer craftsman saws I have used in the past. Of course, that might just be my pride talking as I spent a bit of time cleaning the thing up and getting it to a usable state.

[Byrdie]

I been convinced to become a blade changer.  I use a 24t regular kerf Freud for ripping and anywhere from 40 to 60 to 80 for other cuts.

[Chuck Melton]

Just ripped 8 2" strips of 8/4 maple and purpleheart with the Freud ripping blade and it went pretty darn smooth on my old 3/4 HP saw.

 

Thanks again for the recomendation DJO.