My Benchcrafted Moxon Vise Build


Tony Wilkins

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The Moxon Vise build with Bench Crafted hardware is coming along well.  I've got the three wood components cut out and parallel top to bottom and front to back.  The ends aren't exactly square and I'm doing that for practice as I don't guess it's absolutely necessary for operation.  I'm thinking that the bottom of the non-moveable chuck and the back support and the top of both chalks is the minimal for good use.

 

I've got some pictures but right now they're just lumber.  Next step is drilling the holes and then I'll get pictures up.

 

Would definitely recommend this project for a pretty new woodworker (which I am) and the Bench Crafted mechanicals aren't cheap but the package is well worth it for me.  Thanks Jameel.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Made some progress on the Moxon today so I'll catch y'all up a might...

 

Here's the two chops - the top board is the final sized movable chop; the bottom is the longer back/stationary about to be marked to rip down to width.

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DSCF1408 by Texchappy, on Flickr
 
My new bevel down jointer ready for action.
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DSCF1412 by Texchappy, on Flickr
 
My wild ripping results in lots of practice jointing the edge square.
10565564214_b8f869f8b5_c.jpg
DSCF1423 by Texchappy, on Flickr
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Evan Falls shooting board ready for first action.  Didn't want to mess around cutting plywood so I went the pre-made route.

10565782123_7d0e3eeeb5_c.jpg
DSCF1430 by Texchappy, on Flickr
 
My cross cutting wasn't much better than my ripping.  Shooting practice time!
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DSCF1429 by Texchappy, on Flickr
 
Brace and Bit to get the hole through for the Acme threads.  
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DSCF1434 by Texchappy, on Flickr
 
Couldn't get all the way through the 8/4 walnut with a lead screw issue.
10565512965_061b928eb9_c.jpg
DSCF1435 by Texchappy, on Flickr
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Marked out for a mortise for the bolt.

10565520765_358446f8f1_c.jpg
DSCF1443 by Texchappy, on Flickr
 
Lines of the mortise lined in with chisel then decided (somehow) to chop from the corners into the hole.
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DSCF1445 by Texchappy, on Flickr
 
Paring out the waste between each corner chop.
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DSCF1447 by Texchappy, on Flickr
 
Not to depth yet but getting there.
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DSCF1448 by Texchappy, on Flickr
 
Critiques and tips welcome.  Sure I've made a lot of mistakes along the way.
 
On the auguring through the first board, I did go through from both directions not to blow it out.  I haven't drilled the holes through the other board; I plan to mark them from these holes.
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The hole lined up fine fortunately.  It was slightly fat on the left and close on the right but I believe it will work in the end.  Worked a little more on it today.  Hardest part is that the angle to pare has gotten deeper the deeper the mortise has gotten.  I feel like I'm digging with the chisel rather than paring.  I do have to say that what I learned from Charlesworth's precision chisel work DVD has stood me in very good stead in this operation.

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Well it's done.  It's actually my first project taken to completion as a woodworker (or is it wood mangler).  When I can get my nerve up to take a picture I'll post it.  It's ugly but it functions.  All the little times I said 'close enough' have added up to things slightly off - okay grand canyon off.  But I did learn a lot.

 

Now back to the Shaker Table I started back a few months ago.

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Nice one Tony, it looks just fine. On the drilling all the way through, in addition to Mel's tip normally when your nearly through you can feel when it stops pulling and you get the tip of the lead screw poking through. Simply spin it over and come from the other side.

 

Also I noticed the top edges and bottom edges are not flush, is that a feature of the benchcrafted moxon? I took a look a James joinery bench and it was flush. http://weekendwarriorwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Completed-Bench.jpg

 

Once again good work 

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According to the plans there is supposed to be about an 1/8th inch deeper on the front - movable chop to align it to the front of the bench.  I have that but part of my being a little off at places along the way it that the back is also a shade higher at the top (which it isn't supposed to be).

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement.

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So I went out and looked at the vise again and...

 

It measures up perfectly if I flip the front chop and then it turns out that the rear strut (used to hold it down) is on the top instead of the bottom.

 

Besides using hot water, anything I should no about ungluing hide glue?

 

ETA: I added a lot of hot water to the joint - first time waited two minutes, second time waited thirty seconds.  I've got a steamer I'll try later.  I think the water not working is that the glue 'joint' is 2 inches wide by 22 inches long and the hot water isn't able to get to the middle of the joint.

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