Hotley hand planes?


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I was just looking through the hand plane prices for fun. Only thing that came to mind was a familiar song. Something like this: MY MIND IS TELLIN ME YESSSS. BUT MY CHECK BOOK. MY CHECK BOOK. IS TEL

The cap iron does reduce tearout at multiple depths of cut, thick and thin, if you set if properly, and it does much more than simply reduce the need for a thick blade. They existed and were used well

(You mean "Holtey" planes, right?)   As an object of worship, absolutely. As a tool for working wood, I'd be unworthy to stand in the same room as one of his planes, let alone push one across a boa

:) I'm Incoherent again!  :lol:

 

Point One - Cap Iron reduces tearout on shavings around the 0.5mm range and larger by compressing the shaving at the cut (at least wilburs vid made me think that). The Cap iron effect is reduced a lot when shavings are less than 0.5mm

 

Point Two - With no cap iron the blade needs beefing up as the cap iron a makes thinner blades more rigid to avoid chatter.

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The cap iron does reduce tearout at multiple depths of cut, thick and thin, if you set if properly, and it does much more than simply reduce the need for a thick blade. They existed and were used well before stanley and other companies started making thinner blades.  Though you are correct that they do allow you to get away with a thinner blade.  When set properly a cap iron bends the chip in a way that prevents tearout in the same way a high angle of attack does.

 

However, the cap iron is one of several ways to reduce tearout and it doesn't usually vibe well with the super tight mouth. You sorta need to pick your poison.  A thick single iron, a tight mouth, and/or a high angle certainly createsa highly effective tool as evidenced by high end infills, as well as modern BU planes.  

 

As far as acting on super thin shavings. Yes a cap iron can do that, if you set it close enough, but that's not really its best use. Ideally, a cap iron allows you to avoid tearout without having to take super thin shavings, allowing you to work faster, something a super tight mouth does not allow you to do.

 

Again, it is simply one means to an end, and there are multiple ways to that end, but it is a means to an end that is available and will work on just about any run of the mill bailey style plane one has.  There is a certain elegance to the straight forwardness and simplicity of single iron planes, and I am not meaning to discount that. All this is only to say that the cap iron can act on the shaving and reduce/prevent tearout and multiple thickness....I encourage everyone to try it for themselves, it really does work in at multiple settings.

 

(also, I love sammiches as well  :D )

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Didn't miss much Freddie.  There's really no reason to listen to me. If I were half as good at actual woodworking as I am at plane geekery and talking about plane geekery....well lets just say I'd be a better woodworker.

 

Anywho, thought I'd post a link to a video that to some extent show a chipbreaker in action. The vid wasn't actually intended to show the use of the capiron. It was a video that I posted on my other forum just for the sake of showing off a plane I was excited about.  BUT, if you skip to about 3:25 you can to some extent see the capiron acting on the shaving.  Notice that the shaving shoots somewhat straight up and out vs. curling up in the throat. Of course, what the shaving looks like can vary depending on the wood and other stuff going on in the throat, but generally, if I'm get a smooth cut, with that kind of ejection, I feel confident the cap iron is working.  In this case the setting of the iron and the depth of cut is making the cap iron just begin to act on the chip. Its far enough back that I could deepen the cut a good but more w/o having to adjust the cap iron.  I don't know what the measurments are in this video in terms of thickness of shaving but I'd guess its probably similar to what is seen in the Kato video...about a .002" shaving with the CB set back probably about .008".  That's a rough guess based on the distance I estimate I *typically* keep things setup.

 

Also, note the surface of the wood at the end of the video. I am planing an off cut of hard maple that has some birdseye and some curl.  Its not a terribly difficult piece of wood to plane, but I don't work stuff a lot more difficult than that really.  Anyway, you'll notice its tearout free both in the figure and around the ugly knot in the board.  You could easily get the same result just paying attention to grain direction and and taking a lighter cut...but the cap iron pretty much lets me plane boards like that any which way, and taker a thicker shaving than I would otherwise be able too.

 

This is all with the original blade and cap iron btw.

 

Here's the vid (fyi its a total crap cell phone vid):  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vI3c7vzwI

 

 

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No way! I worry about the same thing myself a lot of the time. Thankfully this forum is populated by decent souls :)

Stop shoving your moralistic ideals down my throat. Goshhhhh.

*sarcasm*

One of my favorite video series to watch is yours, when you have time to post them. Very informative, and easy to watch.

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Aside from cost and weight, unless I missed something, why hasn't lie nielsen offered their larger bench planes in the manganese bronze? I know there are many others like me that would buy them for their pure lusciousness :)

They have made some as special limited ones. Like the bronze 4 1/2. If they made it normally, it would take away from it being special.

I would much prefer to have all of my planes bronze. Doesn't rust! :) plus they look sexy!

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