..Kev Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 That's actually a really good job! Very nicely done! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 That's as good as it gets. Ideally you would rabbet out all the way down the board, so there would be only one long grain joint and no butt joints, which obviously are the most obvious. Good practice and a job well done, but you have to wonder when a board becomes less valuable than the time invested into it...especially when it's for a very visible part of a piece...and not really expensive material. Forgive me for saying so. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted March 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Thanks TIODS, I enjoyed doing it and I thought it turned out pretty good, part of why I posted - to get a second opinion to be sure I wasn't delusional. You guys have a way of seeing things I don't. I'm definitely going to try out those skills again to embellish some future project! The other reason was to see what y'alls thoughts were to see if it was passable as a repair. Eric, to your point, still better to mill a new board. I think in this case I turned a highly visible natural looking blemish into a harder to see artificial looking blemish.Forgive me for saying so. Absolutely no reason to be hesitant when giving me feedback. My woodworking education is YouTube videos, the guild, a couple books and in a huge way, the feedback I get on WTO. I appreciate the charity you guys show to answer all my questions, even the stupid ones. Also, good call out rabbiting all the way down the board, just looks like an edge glue at that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Bravo ! That is a much better job than the first time I tried that kind of patch. The only thing I have learned since is to not use square corners. An angled or free form shaped patch is harder to cut but the eye doesn't pick out the corners. I have slightly disguised the edges by scratching a line between the board grain and the patch grain and using the tiniest amount of stain on an artists brush to color it. I have even gone so far as to mask off the wood around the scratch to keep it neat. And on a vertical surface it should look fine as it is should you not want to go to great lengths to hide it further. If anyone notices it they should be impressed by the skill to cut in the patch! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobcrosley Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 ...and not really expensive material. Says the guy who doesn't have to buy walnut in Florida. (and I know chrisphr doesn't either, just making a joke.) Chrisphr, the patch looks great, but I'm with Eric. New board. The project is really coming along nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjeff70 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Awesome Chris, I'm following intently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Says the guy who doesn't have to buy walnut in Florida. Yea, Eric must think walnut grows on trees... (tap, tap, tap, is this thing on? Ahem...) Despite my woodworkers high from my patch success, I did mill a new board so all back on track with the project. Today I worked on the mortises: Question, I thought mortises using the HCM should be cleaner than this. Is this a sign of a dull hollow chisel? Here is a close up. In other news, the ebony I bought on eBay showed up today. I don't know how to judge ebony quality, but this stuff is black and dense. This is what I will use as peg material for the breadboard ends. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Chrisphr, these are my current results with a hcm. The larger mortises on the poplar are from a harbor freight 1/2" bit. The mahogany board is a 1/4" japan bit from lee valley. The 1/4 chisel was brought to a nice polished edge. The slight, and i mean slight deficiencies are the auger bit traveling ever so slightly outside the the chisel. I have yet to take it down with a file, but will do so in the near future to satisfy my anal retentiveness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Question, I thought mortises using the HCM should be cleaner than this. Is this a sign of a dull hollow chisel? Here is a close up. To me, your HCM seems to be just a dark fuzz out of square.. They don't look bad tho.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I recently watch an older video from Matthias Wandell, in which he analized the cut of an HCM. Interesting to see just how rough it really was inside. The bottom was especially nasty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobcrosley Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I recently watch an older video from Matthias Wandell, in which he analized the cut of an HCM. Interesting to see just how rough it really was inside. The bottom was especially nasty. I just saw that one yesterday, while watching some of his homemade machine builds. I was surprised as well. It took an HCM off of my 'must buy' list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I am going to cut a domino mortice in half and see just how rough it is on the inside. They seem fairly smooth to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I just saw that one yesterday, while watching some of his homemade machine builds. I was surprised as well. It took an HCM off of my 'must buy' list. They're not bad at all once you clean them out. You guys have been watching mortises done with a router bit for so long you forgot what a traditional mortise looks like. On a dry fit with a hcm, a snug fit can lock up on you. Its a really damn strong joint just saying. I am going to cut a domino mortice in half and see just how rough it is on the inside. They seem fairly smooth to me. its going to look pretty darn clean no doubt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Cool, thanks for the comments! Sounds like HCM makes an adequate mortice, but it is not going to be glass smooth inside. That said, in this case the bit may be a tad out of square, and sharp should yield a smoother cut than dull. I also heard a subtle commercial for a F. Domino. One day I WILL give into this subliminal messaging. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Backing up just a bit....Your patch looks great but I think if I were attempting a patch I would use a router inlay kit. I've used the whiteside one for inlays and you just can't get much tighter fills with so little effort. You could have made a free-form pattern out of 1/4" MDF any shape or size larger than the worm hole and had damn near undetected results. Inlay kits are fairly cheap too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Backing up just a bit....Your patch looks great but I think if I were attempting a patch I would use a router inlay kit. I've used the whiteside one for inlays and you just can't get much tighter fills with so little effort. You could have made a free-form pattern out of 1/4" MDF any shape or size larger than the worm hole and had damn near undetected results. Inlay kits are fairly cheap too. I looked up the kit, pretty cool. I think I saw it for about $40. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 They're not bad at all once you clean them out. You guys have been watching mortises done with a router bit for so long you forgot what a traditional mortise looks like. On a dry fit with a hcm, a snug fit can lock up on you. Its a really damn strong joint just saying. its going to look pretty darn clean no doubt. I saw Paul Sellers disect one of his hand-chopped mortises just like Matthias did with the HCM. Paul's was much cleaner at the bottom, and only a little rougher on the sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 I saw Paul Sellers disect one of his hand-chopped mortises just like Matthias did with the HCM. Paul's was much cleaner at the bottom, and only a little rougher on the sides. Scrape the bottom with a chisel, and you have a clean surface. Matthias's example off the hcm is directly off the hcm. Effortlessly scrape the bottom and you have yourself a clean mortise floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted March 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 Ok, making some progress! Routed out the mortise for the shelf, then chiseled the ends square: Cut the tenons at the table saw: Trimmed tenons to fit: Dryfit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Right on! Looks like some nice, clean joints there. And that walnut looks good enough to eat. Did you used to use your chisel drawer to store topsoil for the garden or what? LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted March 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Did you used to use your chisel drawer to store topsoil for the garden or what? LOL Not garden soil, wood shavings. Gives the chisel drawer a certain charm, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted March 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Next step is to mill the boards for the top, shelf and breadboard ends. Question: How critical is it that the boards used in an edge glue are the same width? I've got a couple of blemishes in my lumber that I was just going to cut around. Is it better to minimize the number of glue edges (say 6"+3"+3"=12") or keep the widths even (3"x4=12")? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Not garden soil, wood shavings. Gives the chisel drawer a certain charm, no? I think he meant the green felt looks like grass lol. I have the same lawn in my bench drawers, same bench! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Next step is to mill the boards for the top, shelf and breadboard ends. Question: How critical is it that the boards used in an edge glue are the same width? I've got a couple of blemishes in my lumber that I was just going to cut around. Is it better to minimize the number of glue edges (say 6"+3"+3"=12") or keep the widths even (3"x4=12")? i would do 3 6 3. If you do 4 narrow boards it starts to look Ikea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisphr Posted March 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 I think he meant the green felt looks like grass lol. I have the same lawn in my bench drawers, same bench! Ah, the felt... I was trying to avoid bragging as only the finest bench drawers clad their mdf with green felt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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