Jtraugh Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 I am about to purchase a circular saw and found that there are so many types to choose from... It is a bit daunting. I know that I want a 7 1/4 saw (or do I?), but all the brand names, price differences and features are throwing me off. Milwaukee, DeWalt, Hitachi, Bosch, tilt-lok, comfort grips, lasers, special brakes?! Ah! Online reviews seem to mention the Milwaukee 6394-21 quite a bit and I am leaning that way. Q: What are the features that I need to make sure are included? Q: Many look and feel the same and have similar features but are priced about $80 a part! What do you veterans recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 What's your price range? That will dictate what I would recommend. I have a nice PC direct drive for the shop and a Skil worm drive for framing. But, if I didn't have a tablesaw, I'd save for the Festool TS55 or TS75, a straight edge and a CT unit. Then you won't even need a tablesaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jtraugh Posted August 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 What's your price range? That will dictate what I would recommend. I have a nice PC direct drive for the shop and a Skil worm drive for framing. But, if I didn't have a tablesaw, I'd save for the Festool TS55 or TS75, a straight edge and a CT unit. Then you won't even need a tablesaw. Price range - not more than $170. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 What's your price range? That will dictate what I would recommend. I have a nice PC direct drive for the shop and a Skil worm drive for framing. But, if I didn't have a tablesaw, I'd save for the Festool TS55 or TS75, a straight edge and a CT unit. Then you won't even need a tablesaw. Of those, I'd recommend the TS-75 over the TS-55; the 55 is great for sheet goods but can struggle with thicker hardwood. If you were to go with either, reply back and we'll give you the details of how to place the order to get the right stuff first time through... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 Price range - not more than $170. Oops, sorry, you posted this while I was posting my reply. Yeah, $170 gets you a free copy of a Festool catalog... (kidding aside, they are fantastic saws and two years from now you could get tired of it and sell it on eBay for very nearly the new price) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 Price range - not more than $170. Then I would go down and handle a PC, or one of the others in that range. What I like about my PC is I can see where the blade is being right handed. Many of the direct drive saws make it very hard to see the cut. Also, be sure to buy a nice 40 tooth blade and use blue painters tape over the cuts you make. It will greatly reduce the tear out. A straight edge is a must, also, they are easy to make or you can just pick up one of the kwik clamp type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 I hear ya about lots to choose from. All that I would say is get the best that you can afford. There is nothing worse than getting something that you arent happy with. I have a Craftsman with a laser that I never use. My only complaint about it is that it is so heavy. I am not sure how the weight varies from brand to brand. I am saving up for the Festool TS55 or TS75. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben H Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 I have a Bosch CS20. I picked it up used on Ebay for 75 bucks. I really only use it in the shop for rough cuts, but you can get a quality saw for your price range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 When I bought my current circular saw I got a nice heavy duty one. I now regret it - it's so heavy that it's no fun to use. I'd also recommend getting a bunch of blades: ripping, crosscut, and plywood. Don't use a dull or gummed up blade - have a fresh one ready to swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LordLQQK Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 I picked up a worm drive Ridgid for about $150. Now I don't use it that much, but when I do it is usually for thick, sometimes wet, stuff. So I went for hard core, but not really high end name brand wise. This is my second medium sized buy with the Ridgid name and I am not disappointed in either. (By the way, the OSS/OBS was the first EXCELLENT toy - ummmm, I mean tool.) LQQK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 I was wondering about the worm drives myself. I have heard that they are a little nice to use.. Is this true compare to the normal circ saws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 I was wondering about the worm drives myself. I have heard that they are a little nice to use.. Is this true compare to the normal circ saws? Sac. In my opinion, a worm drive is a framing saw. It's great cause when I'm framing, I usually use my foot and let the weight of the saw cut through 2x material. They tend to be very heavy, but if kept oiled, last forever. For shop use, I NEVER grab the worm drive, always the PC, IF I actually need that large a blade. Usually if I need a circ saw, I usually grab my little PC Trim Saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LordLQQK Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 I was wondering about the worm drives myself. I have heard that they are a little nice to use.. Is this true compare to the normal circ saws? I can tell you they give off less vibration and are therefore quieter. They are supposed to be more reliable, more hard core, and more durable. And because they have a gear involved the motor can spin faster into a ratio gearing transferring more power with less bog. Also I hear with worm drives you can use induction motors, which increases in torque as resistance is met. I bought it for the need to cut 4x4s and 6x6 for an outdoor project. LQQK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRAM121881 Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 I strongly agree with VIC I love my PC (Porter Cable) saw. I have had it for about 4 years now and it has never let me down. Blade changes are easy and it has plenty of power to cut most everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 One time I read that worm drive saws were much more common on the right coast while skill saws were more common on the left. Just throwin' that out there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben H Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 I bought it for the need to cut 4x4s and 6x6 for an outdoor project. LQQK I like how you think. Hmm... I need to cut a handfull of post...I think a new saw will do the trick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bedrockbob Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 I really like my porter cable circular saw. Which ever saw you get buy a good quality blade. It makes all the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jab73180 Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 i have a ridgid circ saw and it works well. it seems like no matter where your looking you get chips and dust in the eyes. i have a frued 40 tooth blade and a bora clamp guide that works very well. with the clamp guide you can be less fussy where you put your face so you dont get a nose full of dust and chips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 i have a ridgid circ saw and it works well. it seems like no matter where your looking you get chips and dust in the eyes. i have a frued 40 tooth blade and a bora clamp guide that works very well. with the clamp guide you can be less fussy where you put your face so you dont get a nose full of dust and chips. I have the same setup on my C-man circ.. Works nicely.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LordLQQK Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 I like how you think. Hmm... I need to cut a handfull of post...I think a new saw will do the trick! Wood Worker's Code: One new project = one (or more) new tool. LQQK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannyBoy Posted August 12, 2010 Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 I highly recommend the Milwaukee 7 1/4 tilt lock, quick cord, electric brake model...goes for around $150. You can adjust the handle to whatever is comfortable, the cord is replacable if you should ever accidentally cut it, but you shouldn't cut it because it has an electric brake. From the time you take your finger off the trigger and set it down the blade stops. I've had it for about 4 years and absolutely love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted August 12, 2010 Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 Another vote for the PC, I have had mine for about 10 to 12 yrs and never a problem. I am right handed but bought a left handed saw for the simple reason it is a lot easier to see while cutting-even so 98% of the time I am using a fence. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmahoney34 Posted August 14, 2010 Report Share Posted August 14, 2010 I've been a carpenter for over 37 yrs and use the same type of saw. I hate the heavy worm drives. I now have a Milwaukee 7 1/4 Tilt Lok handle model. I don't use it in my woodworking shop now but for breaking down sheet goods before using my table saw it works well.If you will be using a saw all day as in rough framing it helps to have a handle set more to the rear. A lot of saws on the market have the handle almost 90 degrees to the cutting plate. It hurts the wrist. The Festools are way over priced unless your working in an enclosed shop. Just my 2 cents worth. Go to Lowes or HD and pick the saw up and feel the grip. The higher priced models usually feel and run the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billboard Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 My first project, before I got into woodworking, was to help my son with his Eagle Scout project. I picked up a Skil. It has performed well. Although I use by table, miter and bandsaw most of the time, I still pull out the Skil for large sheets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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