matthew-s Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Im pretty new to the hand tool thing, but I have read my share on sharpening. Most of what I've read discusses how to take a blade from full dull to sharp. I've read little specific info about "touch up". I have a mortising chisel that I fully sharpened. I now need to touch up the edge Do I just add more to the micro bevel? Or do I take the primary bevel all the way back to zero-out the micro bevel, and put a new micro bevel on? I expect that once the back is lapped flat, there is no need to touch it again. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 No just add a little more to the micro bevel now you have started it. Quite honestly there is no need to put a microbevel on a mortise chisel (it is used to chop waste out) but on a regular bench chisel there is. The only reason for putting a microbevel is to minimize the amount of time you spend rehoning. Once the microbevel increases in land area (to becoming itself the primary) then you should take the chisel back to regrind a primary of 25 degrees on it and start the process again. Returning back to the mortise chisel remember to polish the sides too. The link above explains how to hone a mortise chisel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Terry, Thanks for providing the video. With the cutaway side view, I realize that I have been using the chisel incorrectly. Completely opposite of the way shown. I have been trying to work the chisel instead of allowing it to work itself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Definitely flatten the back and both sides of a morticing chisel . Micro bevel could be used to touch one up if needed but it's not nessacary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Terry, Thanks for providing the video. With the cutaway side view, I realize that I have been using the chisel incorrectly. Completely opposite of the way shown. I have been trying to work the chisel instead of allowing it to work itself Yes it is easy to get that the wrong way around and then find out that perfectly square mortise end has moved as the wedge action moves the cut line the opposite way to where you think. Been there and done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew-s Posted November 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Thanks! Before I create more work for myself, I think I'll just take my micro bevel back to 25*, and hone to that angle. I'll also polish the sides. That said, the technique in the video is very different than what Robert Wearing describes in The Essential Woodworker. I feel like Wearings technique makes for cleaner results but may not take advantage of the cutting action of polished sides? Maybe someone else who has read that book can chime in. I guess I'll leave my micro bevels to my bench chisels, and redo them to primary when they get too big. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 When I'm working on something, I try not to wait to long to whet. If I have to go back farther than the 8,000 water stone, I feel like I've waited too long. You can do that a fair number of times before the edge needs to be reground. I might use a chisel all day long, and it never touch any stone coarser than the 8,000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.