Trip Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 ==>I got rid of my HVLP Wow, that's a change -- please don't tell us you sold your shaper, I don't my heart could take the strain... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 I got rid of my HVLP no more big cans of finish, wipe on only now on. Got a set of 4 stanley I think they are called 750. Wow! Guess I'll put my Fiji MM4 in the Markerplace for $200... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 ==>I got rid of my HVLP Wow, that's a change -- please don't tell us you sold your shaper, I don't my heart could take the strain... Im on a o2 concentrator most of the time now. No I may be buried in the shaper cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 ==>I may be buried in the shaper cabinet. Ahhhh, a poster child for the National Tool Association(NTA), "From My Cold Dead Hands"? Now, for a shaper, it may be the National Power Tool Association(NPTA)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 It was a honest question. I'm buying some hand tools but don't want to be a collector. If some are truly useful I don't mind spending the money. Bought myself a set of chisels and a glass plate with sandpaper to go along with them and a shiny new plane. IN all seriousness I use mine a lot for fitting joinery, usually after coming off the table saw or band saw. The fact it is rabbeting allows me to get right into corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 IN all seriousness I use mine a lot for fitting joinery, usually after coming off the table saw or band saw. The fact it is rabbeting allows me to get right into corners. That makes some sense, since router bits and saw blades done have spurs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 I ordered a #60 1/2 block plane last week. Help me understand why you would need a rabbet plane if you machine cut rabbets. Has someone checked, last time I was there hell had not frozen over . And yes a rabbet block is a sign of people who can't cut to a line or set machines properly JOKE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 I got rid of my HVLP no more big cans of finish, wipe on only now on. Got a set of 4 stanley I think they are called 750. Wow Wow, this is serious! Mods, someone has hacked PB's account. He is going to be pissed when he sees this 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 I have both standard and low angle blocks, shoulder planes, and router planes, but I cut a lot of joinery with machines. If you're planning on buying other joinery planes, skip the rabbet block. It will do most that a standard block will do, but is not as comfortable to hold. The open sides of the rabbet block annoy my fingers in regular use. You also have to be very aware of the edges of the iron being in exactly the right place, as you you may tear up something you don't want to if the iron is proud of a side. This makes sharpening the iron to a perfect 90 really important, as you can't skew the blade to align the edge with the sole without screwing up the side alignment, as you can with a closed sided plane. 99% of my joinery tuning is done with a router or shoulder plane. The router makes it super easy to keep faces parallel, the tall form of the shoulder planes are much easier to hold when up against an edge, and the mass helps on end grain. Need to tune joinery with a standard block, yet you don't have a shoulder or router plane? Simply relieve the area the plane can't touch with a chisel... For many years, I cut my tenon shoulders with a standard blade and table saw crosscut sled, then cut the tenon faces vertically. Cutting the shoulders slightly deep left a nice relief area for easy tuning. To me, the only real advantage to the rabbet block are the knickers, which I keep extended on mine, as I don't use it where my closed sided blocks get used. I prefer a HIGH angle cut on my closed blocks for stuff like chamfering and edge breaking, as there is far less risk of tearout in places that would be very visible and difficult to fix or hide. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakjak220 Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 My $0.02 I have both the LN low angle block and rabbet planes. Although the block plane has the adjustable mouth and the rabbet has a smaller/fixed throat... the ability to "get up against the wall" with the rabbet is just something the block plane can't do and I actually use the rabbet more often. I can ease an edge just as easily with the rabbet as well as clean up a groove/rabbet but you just can't get that done with a plain block plane. If I could only keep one it'd be the rabbet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabinfever Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 If you're planning on buying other joinery planes, skip the rabbet block. It will do most that a standard block will do, but is not as comfortable to hold. The open sides of the rabbet block annoy my fingers in regular use. The comfort issue is a good one to bring up, I bought my LA block plane when I tried one at a Lie-Nielsen event. It fit my hand perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 ==>"get up against the wall" with the rabbet is just something the block plane can't do and I actually use the rabbet more often. If you're going to make full-sized furniture and use primarily hand-tools or use hand-tools to fit power tool joinery, then you really need a couple of planes – I’ll call this the ‘starter set’: shoulder plane, router plane, block plane and a bench plane or two (just the LAJ if you're a Normite)… Assuming you get the shoulder and router plane, then the RBP becomes largely redundant at fitting joinery and a BP makes a better block plane than a RBP. I’ve got a very nice LN-RBP, and almost never use it… In fact, I’ve got three LN planes on my ‘to eBay list’ for the coming year: the RBP, LA-Jack and the standard-angle adjustable-mouth block plane. All three are essentially 100% overlap with other planes in the till – these planes get used maybe once or twice a year… I'm not saying don't get a block plane --- evry shop needs at least one block plane -- probably two. The most used plane in my shop is the LN-102 LA apron plane… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 Tough decision but pulled the trigger on the block over the rabbet block. I think getting a router plane and shoulder plane in the future, the adjustable mouth on the block makes more sense than the rabbet ability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakjak220 Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 You'll be happy with it.... that's the upside about having to choose between 2 high quality tools, you can't lose!.. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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