Faulty Table Saw Switch


Pwk5017

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I was using my delta contractor saw(34-444) last night, and after successfully completing my cut, I reached down to flip the switch only to have no effect on the saw. If you aren't familiar with this saw, it has the worst on/off switch in the history of saw design--the tiny metal rod that flips up and down. I had to unplug the saw to stop it. No matter the position of the switch, the saw turns on when plugged in. Is there an easy fix to get the stop feature to work again on the switch, or do I need to replace the whole switch? Honestly, I wanted to replace the original switch with a large paddle style switch, but I am actively searching for a 3-5hp cabinet saw, so this delta could be out the door a second after the right used saw pops up on CL. For this reason, I would like to get the saw back up and running with as little time/money invested in it as possible. I searched quite a bit, and typically when people have switch issues, the machine doesn't start at all. I am the only one where I can start the machine, but cant stop it.

 

Patrick

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Hey Patrick.  I have that saw and the power switch is funky for sure, and not safe.  I was sick of flipping it on and off.  So, much like Steve's suggestion, I got this:

 

http://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch

 

It has a standard female cord that you plug your saw into, and you need to have your switch on anyway, so having the switch permanently on is not a problem.  I love the switch and I just mounted it to the cabinet I built for my saw.  For short money, this is an easy fix, a real easy install too.

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Yeah, you all convinced me that I should just replace the switch. I purchased the top buy off Amazon for $15, so it will be a worthwhile upgrade. Never replaced a switch before, but I imagine the process isn't too difficult. I handled all the wiring in my shop, so this shouldn't be any different. A Youtube video should set me straight.

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I'd be worried I'd step on it by accident, and send an offcut flying across my shop.

 

Naw, actually quite the opposite, contractor saw you kick the pedal under the saw (my saw has legs) and after the cut the pedal is out of harms way.  I don't know how many times it has saved my cookies. Ever have to stop a cut and power the saw down while holding your wood still. Then fussing to find the power switch in the heat of the moment? Just a quick step on the pedal. 

 

But hey that's just me, not for everyone.  :)

 

-Ace-

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Wire the foot pedal in serial with a regular switch. So you turn the regular switch off when not using the tool to make the pedal just do nothing.

 

 

If you want to deactivate the foot pedal. You simply turn the saw off by using the saws switch. The foot pedal only works when the saw power switch is in the on position. You are correct.

 

However, I always take it a step further. I got in the habit of lowering my saw blade below the table when I'm not making cuts.  It's rare I have the blade unattended above the table. Guess that came from having kids around the shop. 

 

-Ace-

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However, I always take it a step further. I got in the habit of lowering my saw blade below the table when I'm not making cuts. It's rare I have the blade unattended above the table. Guess that came from having kids around the shop.

I always do that too even though my daughter is only 2...just so I have the habit for later. I want to get the lockouts and stuff as well. I remember me as a kid so I'm extra paranoid. =p

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Alright, here is the new switch on the side of my saw. Probably took an hour and a half total, and about $23 in total cost. I removed the old switch, and discovered why it wasn't functioning after I took the cover off. I honestly don't think I could have packed any more sawdust into the switch box. A good reason why the box should be sealed completely, or not to have it in the cabinet to begin with. I assumed I could reuse the old switch box, so I went ahead and wired up the new switch. Wrong. The new switch is DEEP. It would not fit in the 1-7/8" box, so I unwired it, then rewired it thinking if I fed the wires from the back of the box that I would have the room. Wrong again. Time for a run to lowes to get a new box and some new crimp terminals. I came back home, cut the last 3" off the cords so I could run them into the gang box like a typical outlet. Stripped the ends of the In and Out feeds, and wired up the switch for what seemed like the 11th time. Screwed the sucker to the side of the cabinet, and fired it up. Overall, I like the new switch. It is much easier to turn the saw off, because the size of the stop switch is about 8 square inches. I wish I could have mounted the switch under my fence rail, but I was afraid it would interfere with my jessem mastr slide. It would have been an easy task if I had more information up front and been prepared with proper materials. Hopefully it serves me well and appreciates the value of the saw when I go to sell it!

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