Watco Danish Oil


rodger.

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About how many coats are appropriate?  I'm on my second, and wasnt sure about adding a third.  For those experienced with this product, about how many coats do you apply?

 

First coat was heavy, allowed to soak in for a while, and then wiped back.  Left to dry 24 hours.  Sanded lightly with 400, then second coat (not nearly as heavy as first), allowed to sit, and wiped back.  Ill wait 24 hours, and then maybe apply a third.

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Hey franklin, I usually go two with a third coat of their finishing wax, the wax gives it a nice finish, although you can't apply more oil if you use the wax. If the piece gets beat up I put on another coat of wax and that takes care of it

 

Interesting looking product.  I typically use paste wax, but that watco wax container looks like it holds a liquid.  How is applied?

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So here is a question for these oil based non-film type finishes.  Does adding more provide any benefit?  You apply them and they soak into the wood and do whatever cross linking chemistry mumbo jumbo that goes on, but once you have a good uniform/even coat does adding more provide any increase in protection or anything else.

 

I would say that there is a point of diminishing returns as far as what it looks like visually.  You get a couple coats on, and it doesn't seem to enhance the grain or color of the wood any further.

 

It soaks into the wood, and doesn't develop a film (as far as I understand, and assuming proper application)...so extra coats wouldn't seem to enhance the protection that the finish provides.

 

So it would seem to me that once you get even coverage and the desired color, then there is no point to go any further.  I'm sure that someone who knows more than me about how it works will be able to give examples of benefit with more coats...but I just can't think of any.

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Watco and most other Danish oils have some varnish in them...essentially they're just oil/varnish blends.  It will build a film but it will take many coats.  The large percentage of oil is what differentiates it from a "wiping varnish" like ARS and is the reason why it doesn't tack up as soon and takes longer to dry.

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I never wax w Watco. 6 months to a year later I will,scrub w a scotch Brite gray pad and re oil. So,easy to refresh that way.

Re: wax

Learned this lesson the hard way.  Wax looks purdy, but makes touching up nicks and dents a pain as you need to wipe it off with denat.

Also, wax builds up in pores, nooks, and crannies.  No fun paring out white gook.

 

Re: second coat

Per Marc's vids, I use a 1000g Abelon pad now for watco coat two.  Really makes a difference imho, especially in open pore woods as the slurry fills the pores a bit.

 

 

re: natural v. color

I don't mess with them.  Watco Teak Oil looks great on Mahogany/Spanish Cedar, and has UV inhibitors in it.  There is a bit of darker pigment in it.  The marketing advises that it 'penetrates denser woods' better. Can't attest to that.  I understand that the 'dark walnut' Watco keeps walnut looking dark over time.

 

Re: 'film'

Watco Danish and Watco Teak both contain ester rosins which will tack up/gum up.  Forget to wipe off the second coat and you'll notice it immediately.  Not much protection, but I'd (guess) that whatever resins penetrate into the wood are responsible for the 'hardening' effect that they advertise.

 

Edit: The resin is responsible for the film-forming properties of a varnish.  Various varnishes have different drying oil to resin ratios (oil length) which will give them different film forming properties.  Watco Butcher Block (varnish) for instance leaves a very hard, glossy 'film', whereas Watco Danish (varnish) leaves a softer non-gloss film.  There's no reason multiple coats of Watco Danish wouldn't build up thicker surface film, albeit a very thin one.  I'd imagine the wiping off stage through would get trickier though as you build up. 

For instance, my third coat of Watco Butcher Block, I apply thin and wet, and leave it alone (like ARS) because it's being applied to an already hardened (scuffed) surface.  Otherwise, I'm wiping most all of it away.

 

Re: Glue spots

Glue spots show up on coat one like a magic mirror, but you can sand them out right then and there with the oil...which is sweet

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==>ax looks purdy, but makes touching up nicks and dents a pain as you need to wipe it off with denat.

==>Also, wax builds up in pores, nooks, and crannies.

 

There are specialty wax removers/cleaners for the repair/renovation crowd... Are they really better than naphtha? Who knows… I use the stuff from Mohawk: http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=21. I generally hit the piece with wax/silicone remover before any repair work… Over time, furniture gathers more than dirt and wax… Again, Naphtha probably does 90% of the specialty stuff…

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  • 5 years later...

Likely. If the finish hasn't separated or isn't flaking off you may be able to get away with sanding some of the finish off but not all of it.

Providing pictures will give better suggestions. Be mindful if the piece contains plywood as veneer is very thin and sanding may go through said veneer and cause unsightly blotches.

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