KLG Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 I'm new to woodworking and it's just a hobby for me, but I recently heard of people using coconut oil as a finish. Any thoughts or comments on that? I'm intrigued enough to try it on a scrap piece of wood, but hesitant to use it on a cabinet I made (soft maple) for fear of regret. Anyone know of pros/cons to using coconut oil?? Even educated guesses are appreciated! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Generally speaking, I try not to use any oil that doesn't cure. Most non curing oils also have a tendency to go rancid over time. Not sure how much of an odor that would create once it absorbs into wood but I do know I don't like the smell of those old bottles of olive oil we occasionally find in the pantry. For furniture, there are very "natural" options that work very well and give you the results you'd expect from a furniture finish. Personally, I'd keep the kitchen oils in the kitchen.If you want a very natural oil finish, look into pure tung oil or the line of finishes from Tried & True. All natural drying oils that are intended for use on furniture, and not intended for use with popcorn. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 If you want a non-drying oil, for something like a cutting board or salad bowl, mineral oil is a safe bet. Mixed with beeswax, it makes an excellent renewable, food-safe coating for things that get washed. For a cabinet, I'd follow Marc's advice. He's not called The Wood Whisperer for nuttin'! ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 I found in the 60's and 70', it made a great replacement for CopperTone. I find today that's not true ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted September 25, 2015 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 It makes a nice slippery shine on flesh but I wouldn't use it on wood. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLG Posted September 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 Thanks for all the replies! That's pretty much what my gut was saying, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponderingturtle Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 Flaxseed oil would work though if you were waiting for it to cure it would take forever. At my summer camp we deep fried wooden spoons that we carved in shortening I think. For a cabinet I couldn't imagine sweating that level of non toxic finish. What is your goal? You could start trying to recreate old finishes but that seems like something that would be several steps from just starting out to making up your own finishes with 200 year old recipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Hi guys, I use coconut oil on my outdoor furniture (teak, bubinga) when it's been through the summer here (very sun bleached), to replenish the wood. It works wonders in getting the colour back and makes the grain pop. The "Hawaiian Tropic" smell is gone very quickly, and the oil rubs out very nice.Give it a go on some scrap to see what it would look like, else go for satin or glossy wipe-on polyurethane from Minwax. Pretty much fool proof, goes on very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigW Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 I tried coconut oil on some scrap oak last weekend, and while it looks nice it is still quite "slimy", and I can't see it getting any better . I won't be doing it again, I really only tried it out of curiosity as I am new to the game as well and haven't got any finishes on my shop shelf yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 (edited) Not that I'd recommend it --- but if you add a dash of Japan Dryer, you could probably get it to work... Or maybe cook it (carefully and outdoors)... How well would it work? Who knows. Try the query over at LJ, some of the finishing heavy hitters hang over there... Try it on scrap first... Bet it would smell better than cooked flax oil Edited November 5, 2015 by hhh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponderingturtle Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Not that I'd recommend it --- but if you add a dash of Japan Dryer, you could probably get it to work... Or maybe cook it (carefully and outdoors)... How well would it work? Who knows. Try the query over at LJ, some of the finishing heavy hitters hang over there... Try it on scrap first... Bet it would smell better than cooked flax oil Is that likely to work on oils that are not drying oils to start with though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Chemical crosslinking vs autoxidation... Don’t know. Any polymer chemists in the studio audience? Could always give it a try and see what happens... just not on your project... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponderingturtle Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 It was mostly wondering if the oil needs to be specific to crosslink in the first place. As these oils do not cross link in ordinary oxidation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I could see it being good on cutting boards, it's supposed to not go rancid for a long time. I don't know if that means like forever or a few years, but is stores pretty much indefinitely. Maybe a little bit of beeswax mixed in a warm mixture and wiped on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 (edited) ==>It was mostly wondering if the oil needs to be specific to crosslink in the first placeI'm sure you can crosslink it -- just cook it... It's more about how to do it in a controlled manor... Will heavy-metal dryers give you good working time and reasonable cure time? Don't know... I took organic way too long ago to remember... If I have time, I'll try it... Edited November 9, 2015 by hhh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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