Veneer over rounded 'edge'

[jwelsh9309]

I work on table-top antique radios, and have done plenty of veneer work, but all flat. However, this time I have to fold a mahogany veneer over a 90 degree rounded edge with a radius of 1.5" and I'm having trouble. I tried it once with Tite-bond glue, paper-backed veneer, a treatment of Vac-u-clamp softener, and lots of clamps. The veneer didn't bond to the curved portion, and I had to strip it all off and start over. I need some real help here, I'm in over my head, but want to learn. I'm wondering what glue I should use, should I use a softener, and should my veneer have no back, paper or PSA, hot iron or veneer hammer? Also, last time I started application on the rounded part, but I'm thinking I should bond the flat part first then fold over the curve last. The cabinet is 15"w x 10"h x 8" deep. Any expertise is greatly appreciated.

[Vic]

I would think you'd want to stay away from any PVA glues. Go with a plastic resin glue, like Unibond 800.

[WoodClips]

I used a vacuum press, unbacked veneer and Unibond 800 to wrap the veneer around the corners on these speaker cabinets. Even with the vacuum press, it was quite difficult to get the veneer tight across the whole curve and it took quite a bit of experimentation with cauls and foam rubber to try to get the clamping pressure where it was needed. Since you mention you've done a lot of veneer work, maybe a vacuum press would be a worthy investment.

Fine Woodworking magazine has a short article, Veneering Tight Curves, which you may find helpful.

Rory

[Vic]

I used a vacuum press, unbacked veneer and Unibond 800 to wrap the veneer around the corners on these speaker cabinets. Even with the vacuum press, it was quite difficult to get the veneer tight across the whole curve and it took quite a bit of experimentation with cauls and foam rubber to try to get the clamping pressure where it was needed. Since you mention you've done a lot of veneer work, maybe a vacuum press would be a worthy investment.

Fine Woodworking magazine has a short article, Veneering Tight Curves, which you may find helpful.

Rory

Nice speaker boxes, Rory!

[DavinNorton]

How about a bending iron like a luthier would use to shape a guitar's body sides before gluing up. Seems like about the right thickness as well. I have seen homemade irons before with a really high wattage light bulb inside a short piece of metal pipe, you could get it real close to the right radius before you ever spread any glue.

[Pete Bennett]

How about a bending iron like a luthier would use to shape a guitar's body sides before gluing up. Seems like about the right thickness as well. I have seen homemade irons before with a really high wattage light bulb inside a short piece of metal pipe, you could get it real close to the right radius before you ever spread any glue.

WE call it pipe bending here but, you're dead right that will work. The only problem I see is if there is a curve on the far side then it would definitely be better to bend two matching pieces lay them in from the curves and overlap the veneers. Unibond 800 is not available in Europe but, I sure wish it was. When veneering anything other than a large flat surface I use Hide Glue and it has never ever failed me yet. If you use Hide glue it is normal practice to overlap joints. Once the glue has cooled sufficiently to form a primary bond lay a straight edge along the centre of the join and slice right through both veneers. Gently re-heat, peel back the top piece and then ease out the bottom veneer. re-lay the two and if you've done it carefully you will not see the join.

Pete