Table Saw/Router Table Build

[z29reg]

I am sure this has been posted but wanted to get some ideas and suggestions, thanks in advance.

My father passed away two years ago and I inherited a bunch of tools from him and have really just gotten started into wood woodworking, he was a very skilled wood worker. I have always been interested in wood working however never really spent a lot of time getting to know all the different tools etc. After college I moved to Charleston and my parents were in ATL so never spent enough time with him on projects to learn a lot.   I have several routers, joiners, planer, radial arm saw, etc etc..  I also took his benches from his old shop when they sold the house so I have a pretty good start on most I would think getting into woodworking as far as tools but lacking knowledge and experience. 

I wanted to start with a project of building a table saw/router combo.  I would like to put this on casters so I can move around as needed in our carport/garage and outside for major projects when necessary.  I have plenty of room for a 8' -10' long bench and maybe 3'-4' wide.  Height would be consistent with the existing benches.  My thought process was this would give me a good reason to start using a lot of tools and get more comfortable with them before getting into more $$$ projects and have something very useful to show for it. 

Here is what I was thinking about purchasing at this point to get started:

1)Portable Dewalt Table saw.. Have been looking at the DWE7480.  I like the idea of something I can pull on and off the bench so I can use that space as needed for other tools. We ended up getting rid of his old table saw as it was not in very good shape and was missing a lot of parts from what it seemed.

2) Kreg Router Table Top, use existing craftsman routers from my dad.. I have used the routers I have on several smaller project already and really enjoy using them so I know I want to incorporate a router table.

I did some searching online and generally liked the overall concept of this one however would like to change a few things.  I would extend out the left side of the table further and put a cabinet underneath for storage.  http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/110729/table-sawrouter-cabinet

I guess my main two questions are do the tools I am looking to add make sense, in particular the kreg router top.  My goal is not to do this cheap but build something safe and functional that I can use for many years to come.

Lastly, I would not want to incorporate my existing radial arm saw correct?  Its a fairly large older craftsman that already has its own stand/table and I have room for it to sit next to this table I plan on building. Its in good working order and I use it all the time for smaller projects around the house.

Let me know any thoughts and or suggestions and appreciate it in advance. 

 

[ColinF]

You can build a good router top for less than the kreg top will cost, two sheets of 1/2" Baltic birch and some plastic laminate. For the table saw, I'd avoid something light weight, a larger saw is better if its in the budget. I have a 110 volt contractors saw, works pretty good, but I think you'll out grow a small saw quickly if you get into this seriously. 

[wtnhighlander]

I would not actually recommend a portable jobsite saw, if you can possibly afford a bigger one. Those saws usually have undersized tables, underpowered motors, poor fences, and are just not great for 'fine woodworking' in general. I would suggest a Cabinet saw if possible, stepping down to a Contractor ior 'Hybrid' saw if that doesn't work out. A router table extension is easy to add between the fence rails if these type saws. As for the Kreg router plate, I'm sure it is good, but I have no personal experience.

[z29reg]

Very good info thanks. Any recommendations on saw brands/models for a table like I am looking to make? Any saws you would stay away from? Ideally I would like to stay under $1000 if possible.  I don't necessarily need it to be portable. Good idea on the router table, thanks! 

[..Kev]

Take a look thru the table saw threads here and you'll get lots of info.  Several in your price range where you can add attach a router table if you desire.

[wtnhighlander]

If you have $1000 to spend, and want to go with new, this one seems like a good choice:

 

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series/G0715P

 

If you are willing to look at used machines, the options in that price range are a lot broader, but you must be prepared to do more repair / tuneup work - possibly a lot.

 

A nice Powematic cabinet saw recently came (and quickly went) on Craig's List in my area. It was a 5 HP saw, looked to be complete and in good condition, and sold for $500. However, it had a 3-phase motor, and would have required a few hundred more dollars to convert for single phase operation. Still, not a bad deal.

[Brendon_t]

I would echo what others have said.  If you plan to be woodworking for any length of time,  you will very likely outgrow a portable saw like that.  

Those saws are meant to be carried out to a construction site,  make a few rips for hardwood install or whatever and pack up.

The two things I found to be the most limiting when I made this Initial mistake were

1) the lack of a reliable fence,that stayed square to the blade and locked down reliably every time

2) a severely under powered motor.  A saw doesn't need big balls to cut 1/2" maple flooring but you will definately notice it if and when you attempt to square the edge of 1.5" or thicker material. 

Within your price range, you have options.  The Ridgid hybrid saw has a cult following with a lot of people never outgrowing it.

Delta has a hybrid saw that is quite capable near the top of that budget.

Grizzly industrial has a few cabinet saws in that range.

The used market opens up more options and good deals can be found but you have to be willing to do the looking and technology if needed. I see powermatic 1500's pop up every once in a while for about that. 

As for the router insert in a table saw,  I'm not a big fan. I like to store my bits, bushing, case, edge guide and so on close to the router.  I built my router cabinet from one piece of 3/4/ birch ply, a piece of 1.5" pre fab melamine and some cheap drawer slides.  Add an insert and lift (or not) and you're routing with storage.

This picture was taken before it was finished but you get the idea. 

[sheperd80]

Another problem with portable saws is that most are too small to use sleds and jigs effectively. I used a dewalt 7480 for a long time and its a great portable saw but its not a woodworking saw.

.

As for the kreg insert, i just made a router table extension for my saw and used the Kreg insert and levelers. Its a rly nice setup and makes things easy and adjustable but it is definitely not needed if youre on a budget. Put the $ towards a saw and some blades imho. However if youve got a few extra bucks, the kreg stuff worked out well and is a quality setup no doubt.

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[wareaglewoodworker]

Welcome to the forums.  If you haven't noticed by now the folks on here will try to up-sale you on equipment from time-to-time.   But I think they speak from experience.

I came across this design a while back and I've always like the general concept.  I've been considering something like this to mount my old sears contractor saw.  http://sawdust2stitches.com/workshop-assembly-table/  The design could be modified to incorporate a router table.

Now for the unsolicited advice...  

Make sure whatever table saw you get has a decent fence system.  That's the worst thing about working with an old contractor saw for me.  Every cut involves checking the distance from the fence to the saw blade three times. (front, middle, rear) And if I just moved the fence I'll double check it.

Don't forget to account for power considerations in your tool purchases.  That steal on on 5HP powermatic tablesaw becomes less of a deal if you have to pony up to have an electrician put 3-phase power in your garage.  Just flipping through the Grizzly catalog the other day I noticed that most 2-3HP motors come pre-wired for 220V.  The lower-HP motors in that range will run on 110V but the keep an eye on that amperage draw at the lower voltage.  If a motor draws 20A at 110V you can't run it on a 20A circuit. (the break-point is somewhere between 80% and 90% if I recall correctly)    

 

[z29reg]

Appreciate all the info.   Very helpful!!!   I am sure I will have additional questions once I start putting everything together.