Ideas needed for a heart shaped jig.


Strasberry

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I have a client that I make small boxes of different shapes, hearts, ovals, hexs, rectangles etc. Some are made with a simple box joint but the odd shapes I currently cut the inside and out with a bandsaw. This works fairly well  but it is very hard to make them consistent. I am looking to create a jig that will speed up the process, make it repeatable and decrease the differences between boxes so the lids would be interchangeable with each other. 

The boxes are 2" thick with tops and bottoms on, about 8" across. The sides of the boxes are about 3/8" thick with the bottoms 1/4" and tops 1/2" . The tops have a 7/16 rabbit around the edge so the top is recessed a 1/4 into the box.

To date I haven't come up with a viable way to us a router with a collett and jig or a bit with a bearing either on top or on the bottom of the bit. The biggest issue is not knowing of a bit that will cut 1 1/2". Even if there is a bit that would cut 1 1/2 how would you hold the center piece of wood steady enough to not bounce and turn into a projectile when the cut is finally made to free the waste from the inside. The outside of the box is fairly simple to jig up so its just the inside that has me stumped! I could cut from both sides but lining up to match the top and bottom seems troublesome to me.

Anyone have a better idea? 

007.JPG

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Think about it like a sandwich.

You could make the "meat" layer by roughing out the heart shape using the bandsaw or a jigsaw, and then true it up on the router table using a template.  I would do that in multiple passes, using the bearing first against the template, and then on later deeper passes on the side wall that was just cleaned up.  If that doesn't get you as deep as you need, you could go as far as you could from one side, and then route from the other side, switching router bits so you can use the already cleaned up side-wall as the template.

You could rough out the bottom "bread" layer (the bottom of the box) and glue it to the trued up hollow core meat layer.  Then I'd use a bearing bit to true the bread layer to the meat layer.

You could make the top "bread" layer by using another template.

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I'd make a template just like one of these except heart shaped (you'll need two actually, one for ID and one for OD)...

115-TK1_large.jpg

 

Start with a blank of 8/4, resaw off the lid.  Hog out the bulk of the waste with a forstner, then route the inside clean with the ID template.

Cut the lid and base to rough shape on the bandsaw, double stick tape lid to base, double stick tape template to both lid and base, flush trim both lid and base at once.  (Use double stick tape to secure entire box to work surface if it wants to move around on you...use sacrificial work surface since bit will have to eat into it by a hair.)

Take lid to router table and cut a rabbet so that it fits into base.

 

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Eric beat me to it.  Since your batching these boxes the only thing I would add is a pattern jig for the bandsaw.  I made this one for some table legs, just make it  "pointy" to follow the template for the box.  The jig plan came from either Woodsmith or Shopsmith.jig.JPG.a80accf919f3058738b5315f02ebfd56.

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13 hours ago, sjk said:

If that doesn't get you as deep as you need, you could go as far as you could from one side, and then route from the other side, switching router bits so you can use the already cleaned up side-wall as the template.

I hadn't thought of this before! I like the idea of using the all ready routed part for the template! Good idea!

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While looking around for router bits I found a flush trim bit with bearings on the top and bottom of the bit! If these are any good it should cure some of my problems. It has a full         2 1/2 " cutting surface

The bit is a Yonico patern/flush trim bit #14135. Anyone ever use one?

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 1/31/2016 at 9:22 PM, Strasberry said:

While looking around for router bits I found a flush trim bit with bearings on the top and bottom of the bit! If these are any good it should cure some of my problems. It has a full         2 1/2 " cutting surface

The bit is a Yonico patern/flush trim bit #14135. Anyone ever use one?

 

I use a Whiteside that is probably similar.  I use top/bottom bearing bits so that I can always route "downhill" when template routing.  I will use a Forstner bit to hog out the bulk of the material when I am removing a lot of wood like you are.  I try to leave just enough so that the router bit can take care of the balance of the waste.

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