Maloof rocker questions


AndyG

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5 hours ago, AndyG said:

That's looking really good! Please keep us updated on the progress.

Today I finished the seat joinery and glued up the seat.

A bit more practice and I'll start grinding out seat.

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Looking awesome!  I'm looking forward to seeing that grain match !

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Thanks for the comments. I spent quite a while working out the best grain for the seat and I'm very happy how it turned out.

I'm about to start with the front legs and I will use my table saw to create the 3 sided dado (no dado blade). Because the joint is not visible like the rear legs, can I get away with cutting the dado slightly deeper so I know that if the fit isn't right it has to be the round over bit that needs adjusting?

I've also been practicing with the Holey Galahad fine wheel and I think I may need to get a courser wheel. I plan to establish the perimeter of the seat with the fine wheel and use a course wheel to remove the bulk of material that meets established pre sculpted area.

Has anyone used a course flap wheel on the grinder? Or should I just buy the Holey Galahad course wheel?

Thanks!

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I think you're right I'll be ordering one next week.

What do people think of these? http://www.arbortech.com.au/view/woodworking/contour-random-sander/query/product/san-fg-200

Do you reckon they'd be handy during the build? I was going to get a festool soft pad for my sander but I just saw these.

I haven't made much progress on the chair.... Been flat out but hoping next week I'll get the leg joinery done and start sculpting the seat.

Thanks!

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Andy not sure about the arbortech not really needed on the seat from my experience so far but maybe elsewhere, I will tell you that I started sanding on one of my sculpted seats today and I would say the soft pad is worth every penny! Really allows you to come up the sharp curves on the seat edges.

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Thanks for the replies. I'll definitely be buying the interface pad I just thought the contour sander might be handy. I got some of those small scrapers from highland woodworking which will also be helpful.

Yesterday I completed all the front leg joinery. It went relatively straight forward and I'm happy with the result. There's a small hairline gap but I think the epoxy will take care of that.

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Looks awesome, Andy ! You should be able to play with that joint to get it a little tighter. Do you have a shoulder plane or router plane?

4 minutes ago, Brendon_t said:

What's the plan for turning the cylinders ? I'm planning to build this eventually but don't have a lathe and don't plan on one. 

What cylinders are you referring to? The front legs? The front legs are the only part done on the lathe.

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Yes, the part of the legs from a few inches above and below the leg joinery.  I've only seen them turned on the lathe.

If you dont have a lathe you can get Hal Taylor's templates and dvd. He does the front legs without a leg and they are not straight they are curved back. Nicer than Maloofs imo.

http://www.rockingchairuniversity.com

>

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

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What's the plan for turning the cylinders ? I'm planning to build this eventually but don't have a lathe and don't plan on one. 

I have a friend who is a very good turner and he'll turn them for me (and still the 1/2" dowel holes).

Thanks

Shaneymack- I'm trying to quote your reply but I can't work it out.

I have a shoulder and router plane. I'm curious to here your suggestion? Thanks.

I kind of stuffed up with the fitting. I had a gap free joint with clamps on the test piece. Then for some reason I changed the setting on my router table and the result wasn't as good.

With clamps the gap almost disappears but I reckon with epoxy it should fix it up.

I also made the jig for the rear leg dado. I just need to work out the right depth and I'll rout the dados on the legs. I'm much more comfortable doing it this way.

Anyone else use the jig?

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3 minutes ago, Brendon_t said:

It's funny how we make these jigs and worry about getting the router table set up perfectly when Sam used to just keep a bunch of hand held routers and just do it by hand . 

HA - I can do a picasso paint by numbers, but that don't make me a painter :) 

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3 minutes ago, Mike. said:

HA - I can do a picasso paint by numbers, but that don't make me a painter :) 

By definition I believe it does.

I can't remember what YouTube video it was I watched but it had Sam just grabbing the router throwing it towards the joint ,hogging the waste material away leaving a ton of blow out on the backside of the cut and that was good enough because he was going to sculpt it away anyways

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It's funny how we make these jigs and worry about getting the router table set up perfectly when Sam used to just keep a bunch of hand held routers and just do it by hand . 

I was talking to some friends recently about how Sam worked. It looked as if he wasn't trying and that it wouldn't be that accurate. I remember watching him rout out the seat joinery and thinking that it couldn't possibly be accurate.

But we all know what he produced and just showed how talented he was.

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I finished up the rear leg joinery today. This is the fit without any fine tuning but I'm pretty happy with the fit. I think some strategic scraping will get the hair line gap out.

My right leg is a nice fit but the left is a bit loose. I'm thinking of shimming it... Thoughts?

Thanks!

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5 hours ago, AndyG said:

My right leg is a nice fit but the left is a bit loose. I'm thinking of shimming it... Thoughts?


Thanks!

When you say the fit is a bit loose, I assume that you're talking about the tenon itself?  How loose is it?  You could certainly add some material to the tenon and then trim. 

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