AndyG Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Hi all, I have started building the maloof inspired rocker. I'm having heaps of fun and really enjoying the build. I am about to buy the grinding discs for the sculpting and was wondering if anyone has used the kutzall discs? They make a dish or donut shape discs and also a sanding discs which is more flat than the dish wheel but is still curved. I'm thinking of getting a very course dish wheel and a medium sanding disc. The dish wheel will be for the bulk of the stock removal and the medium for refining. I would really like to hear from others who have used the kutzall and which type they went for. I am sure I'll have many more questions on the rocker build but this is the first one. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 I didn't use them because they don't have the holes in them. Vision is the hard part with these wheels! Chair is looking awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 I used the Kutzall wheel. I only used one and it was fine. Here is my project journal if you would like to have a look. Its pretty detailed. I just bought 100 bd ft of bubinga to build some sculpted lowbacks. I will be using the Festool Ras115 with some 24 grit to do the grinding istead of the Kutzall wheel. The thing I hated about the Kutzall wheel was the mess. Its terrible. With the Ras115 there is dust collection so it should make a huge difference. Any questions you have, let me know, im here to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Andy that is looking real nice! I look forward to following along I hope to start mine early next month. shaneymack let us know how the Ras115 does compared to the Kutzall. I plan to do most of my grinding outside because of the mess but if the sander works that would be a great compliment for sure and hey I have a $50 voucher coming 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 I have a 'medium' kutzall donut-shaped disk. It removes stock so fast, I see no reason to purchase a 'coarse' disk. With a light touch, it leaves a surface equal to a quality rasp, maybe a little smoother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyG Posted October 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 14 hours ago, TIODS said: I didn't use them because they don't have the holes in them. Vision is the hard part with these wheels! Chair is looking awesome! Thanks I appreciate that. I'm having the most fun of any project that I've worked on before. I've been checking out your build also- great work. 13 hours ago, shaneymack said: I used the Kutzall wheel. I only used one and it was fine. Here is my project journal if you would like to have a look. Its pretty detailed. I just bought 100 bd ft of bubinga to build some sculpted lowbacks. I will be using the Festool Ras115 with some 24 grit to do the grinding istead of the Kutzall wheel. The thing I hated about the Kutzall wheel was the mess. Its terrible. With the Ras115 there is dust collection so it should make a huge difference. Any questions you have, let me know, im here to help. Thanks I've checked out your build before and was very impressed by it. I'll most certainly be asking more questions when they pop up- thank you. 12 hours ago, pkinneb said: Andy that is looking real nice! I look forward to following along I hope to start mine early next month. shaneymack let us know how the Ras115 does compared to the Kutzall. I plan to do most of my grinding outside because of the mess but if the sander works that would be a great compliment for sure and hey I have a $50 voucher coming Thank you. You will love it! I even try and squeeze in 30 minutes of shop time here and there. 3 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: I have a 'medium' kutzall donut-shaped disk. It removes stock so fast, I see no reason to purchase a 'coarse' disk. With a light touch, it leaves a surface equal to a quality rasp, maybe a little smoother. That's interesting. Paul from Canadian woodworks who has made dozens of these chairs recommends a very course wheel. My thinking is that he recommends it because he doesn't do any "pre sculpting" on the bandsaw so he needs to remove lots more material. So maybe I can get away with a finer wheel? I really don't know. I'm from Australia also so I'll need to buy from overseas so I need to get my purchase right. Thanks for your comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Andy, the wheel i did my rocker with is "b" in this link. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=71098&cat=1,42500 Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyG Posted October 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Thanks I'll check it out. The first of the back slat template has been cut out on the bandsaw. Next up is sanding then using the second template. My router bit set that I ordered won't arrive for another 2-3 weeks so I'm moving ahead with the build and will come back to the seat and leg joinery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Looks great Andy! I am going to knock out my patterns tomorrow while some epoxy dries on my kayak. Thanks for posting this it is going to be a great help to me as I progress through my build which I hope to start in earnest the first part of next month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyG Posted October 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 Looking forward to seeing your progress. It's easily the most fun I've had in the workshop. I was wondering if anybody who has built a rocker could give me some advice as to what they'd do differently next time? Or something they wish they knew before they started building. Everything has been going smoothly so far but I'm a little concerned when it comes time to start sculpting and ensuring both sides of the chair is even. I think I'm also over thinking the sculpting of the seat and getting an even straight line around the seat. Did anyone else have trouble with this or am I simply over thinking it? Is it possible for one of the mods to change the thread title? To something like - "Maloof rocker build" Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted October 23, 2016 Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 Looking forward to seeing your progress. It's easily the most fun I've had in the workshop. I was wondering if anybody who has built a rocker could give me some advice as to what they'd do differently next time? Or something they wish they knew before they started building. Everything has been going smoothly so far but I'm a little concerned when it comes time to start sculpting and ensuring both sides of the chair is even. I think I'm also over thinking the sculpting of the seat and getting an even straight line around the seat. Did anyone else have trouble with this or am I simply over thinking it? Is it possible for one of the mods to change the thread title? To something like - "Maloof rocker build" Thank you. I would do something different, I would build Hal Taylors rocker instead. He took Maloofs and tweaked a few things. First thing being the bent lam back slats. I have Hals Templates and plan to build one. My plan is to do a journal and compare the two as I build it. I absolutely hated the solid back slats on the maloof rocker. I broke a few of the small tenons at the bottom while fitting them. Make a few extra !! Yes you are definitely overthinking the sculpting. There is really nothing to it. Its all about the layout lines. You will be surprised that it's not as difficult as you thought to get everything symmetrical. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyG Posted October 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 That's interesting that you mention that as I've been looking at other rockers and really like the slimmer/thinner slats. I thought I'd post a close up pic of the seat. I spent quite a while deciding on the grain orientation but I'm happy how it turned out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyG Posted October 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 With the back slats, how much did you sand after bandsawing out the first template? I was thinking of sanding just enough to get a flat even surface to trace the second template. There still may be some small marks left from the bandsaw but I figured these marks will be removed with the rasps/grinder. I'm interested to hear what you guys did? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 I did very little sanding until all the bandsaw work was done because of all the shaping that still had to be done.. I'm sure @shaneymack will chime in with what he did.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyG Posted October 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 I've had a change of mind and am leaning towards the holy galahad wheels now. I really like being able to see where I'm grinding with the holes. Do you think I can get away with only the fine wheel? Or is the course also a must? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 1 minute ago, AndyG said: I've had a change of mind and am leaning towards the holy galahad wheels now. I really like being able to see where I'm grinding with the holes. Do you think I can get away with only the fine wheel? Or is the course also a must? Thanks I certainly did the most work with the fine wheel.. The other was handy in the seat but, not required.. Just might take an extra couple minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 I'm sure you would be fine with the fine wheel. Kind of like using 80 grit on a sander rather than buy 24 to take off a good amount of wood. 80'll get it done but 24 will do it faster and make a way bigger mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyG Posted November 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 Hi, Just wondering if anyone has any links or if possible, could post a pic of their seat (I'd really appreciate it). I got a fair idea of how the seat needs to be sculpted but I'm not 100% confident. I've watched Marc's video a few times but not entirely sure that I get it. Is the rear of the seat lower than the front and it gently slopes up to the front and as it approaches the pummel is slopes towards it? And is the middle of the thigh area flat is slightly curved? I understand that it can be sculpted to my liking, but for my first rocker I think I'll just follow something that has been provden to be comfortable. Thank you. Also my Holey Galahad wheel arrived the other day. It's really fun to use but I'm thinking I may need a courser wheel for the seat. I'll do some more practice runs and take it from there. I also marked out the back slats ready for the second round of cuts on the bandsaw. I'm still waiting for my order to arrive with the router bits so I've skipped ahead a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 Yes, the back of the seat is deeper than the front. There's some pictures in my journal but, I'm on the road for work right now and don't have access to my chair to grab you more detailed pics. If you carved out with the bandsaw like in Marc's instruction, that's the level you'll work to. The pommel area gets sculpted to taste. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 AndyG you also may want to check out Canadian Woodworks on YouTube Paul has several videos on sculpting seats. Not exactly the same chair but the concepts are the same. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyG Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Thanks for replies I ended up buying the Charles Brock DVD with my router bits. Another question- how much power do you need with an angle grinder? I went and had a look at a 720 W Makita and really liked the feel (light) however I'm concerned about not having enough power. The guy that I purchased the Holey Galahad wheel off reckons it's fine however he believes the grinders with the trigger at rear (he refers to it as rats rail) where you index finger lay naturally is better due to dust not getting in the mechanism and potentially jams it? Has any one used a small grinder with these wheels and if so what's your thoughts? I started with the rear leg joinery but I've been flat out so haven't had much of a chance to do any more work. I friend of mine loaned me some of his Liogier rasps with custom made handles. These are incredibly nice to use and I can't wait to put them to good use during the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Has any one used a small grinder with these wheels and if so what's your thoughts? I can't imagine this will be an issue but I will let you know after tomorrow as I will be using my battery operated Makita grinder with Kutzall wheels to shape three bar stool seats. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 I used the same one that Marc did in the video and I was quite surprised at how well the batteries held up! Worked well for me! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pkinneb Posted November 13, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 Andy G after grinding out one of the seats on my bar stools today I have learned a few things. I would not want a larger grinder not really enough room to be wielding anything bigger. The power on all three of the grinders (dewalt, Makita, Festool 24g Sandpaper) I used was more than adequate although the batteries didn't hold up well at all on my 18v 3ah Makita grinder. To be clear I was using the Kutzall wheels coarse original and Extreme medium. I really preferred the round over on the extreme vs the flatter original disc for marking the edge of the seat. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyG Posted November 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2016 That's looking really good! Please keep us updated on the progress. Today I finished the seat joinery and glued up the seat. A bit more practice and I'll start grinding out seat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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