00101 Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Ok, today I was going to change out my table saw blade to put in a dado set, and the nut is stuck. I tried pushing as hard as I can on it, nothing. Put some wd-40 on it, pushed as hard as I could, again, nothing. I locked one of the two wrenches down against the table and smacked the hell out of the other wrench with a hammer, nothing. Tried a bigger hammer (5lbs), nothing. Tried a bigger wrench with the 5lbs hammer, the hits had so much force to them that they started to deform the solid steel nut, the wrench only moved when the nut started to deform and is still just as tight. What the f*ck!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Sounds stupid, but is it possible your arbor is left-threaded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbmaster11 Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 mine is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00101 Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Forgot to mention when I started using the first hammer I tried both directions, as well as starting out going opposite of the manual's tightening instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Right tilt or left tilt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00101 Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Its left tilt, I think, but I did get it off with a 1' socket wrench with a 3' foot pipe to the end of it, still had to push almost as hard as I could but I did get it off. Well here's what I learned from this, my manual says its left threaded, which means that it should tighten when the nut is turned counter-clockwise, well, its not . It tightens clockwise, opposite of what the manual implicitly states, and loosens counter-clockwise. I still have no idea how in the nine levels of hell it got that damned tight, but I do know now which way to turn the damned thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 All my life, my dad was in the automotive world. He taught me something soooo valuable for rusted, seized, and stuck stuff - "PB Master Blaster"...spray, soak, spray more, soak. Give it a day and the rusted together gives up. My best friend works for Fastenal and we've tried all the latest, and greatest. I always come back to the Master Blaster. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 I was taught something similar by my father - apply a penetrating oil like 3-in-1, then tap the pieces gently with a hammer or your wrench. The vibrations help the penetrating oil get into the threads. Wait a bit, then try to unscrew it. If it doesn't move, wait a few hours and repeat. Keep repeating until it moves. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 If it's right-threaded, it's left-tilt (and vice versa). The threading should have been visible by looking at the thread. After all that torque and hitting and prying, you might want to put a blade on and see if you introduced runout. Even a slight bend of the arbor will be amplified 5" out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shooterscott Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 I don't know how much the nut got deformed but you may now need to get a new one. If the original is really bad it could make a unwanted wobble in the blade/arbor and make a bad cut. Just a thought, good luck. Ok, today I was going to change out my table saw blade to put in a dado set, and the nut is stuck. I tried pushing as hard as I can on it, nothing. Put some wd-40 on it, pushed as hard as I could, again, nothing. I locked one of the two wrenches down against the table and smacked the hell out of the other wrench with a hammer, nothing. Tried a bigger hammer (5lbs), nothing. Tried a bigger wrench with the 5lbs hammer, the hits had so much force to them that they started to deform the solid steel nut, the wrench only moved when the nut started to deform and is still just as tight. What the f*ck!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samhell Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 All my life, my dad was in the automotive world. He taught me something soooo valuable for rusted, seized, and stuck stuff - "PB Master Blaster"...spray, soak, spray more, soak. Give it a day and the rusted together gives up. My best friend works for Fastenal and we've tried all the latest, and greatest. I always come back to the Master Blaster. I got the same stuff from my grandfather. I keep a couple cans in the garage at all times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 The nut should always tighten in the opposite direction of the rotation of the blade, which always spins toward the front of the TS, so the nut tightens towards the back of the saw. If the manual was for a right tilt saw, the directions would be opposite for a left tilt. That's actually one of my primary reasons for favoring left tilt saws...the nut goes on from the right and has standard thread rotation. Your blade may be deformed from the overtightening by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave's Not Here Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 All my life, my dad was in the automotive world. He taught me something soooo valuable for rusted, seized, and stuck stuff - "PB Master Blaster"...spray, soak, spray more, soak. Give it a day and the rusted together gives up. My best friend works for Fastenal and we've tried all the latest, and greatest. I always come back to the Master Blaster. +1 on that advice. PB Blaster is the best there is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkFaucett Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Wow you know its a bad day when you have to take a mallet to your table saw! Sorry about your problem 101 but glad you got it worked out. Now you got me wondering..I haven't had to change blades on mine yet.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00101 Posted January 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Yikes, that sounds bad (the possible wobble). I put on the dado blade, first time I'm using it, and it did sound different, which is really to be expected. So now that you guys got me thinking on this I might need to see if the thing is still square. During the whole process I did knock a couple of teeth off of the blade so I had to go buy another blade which is causing some very violent shaking of the saw. I put in my old blade and the vibration was as it normally is which leads me to think the blade is bad. Sort of off topic, but I live in a house with a baby in it. The night before, when I started the prototype, I got 2 cuts on the chop saw, then got yelled at. So I had to stop. The next morning I made two bevel cuts to the lid, and had to stop since we had to go to breakfast, sigh. Well when I got back I finished the other two bevels, got yelled at because the baby was sleeping . Well I decided that in the mean time I'd change out the blade for the dado blade. Well thats when this whole thing happened. After I the dado blade on, I made one test cut and one cut across the blank for the sides and put on the new blade and the wobble I couldn't return it that night because the store was closed early. Well f*ck! So I got two cuts at a time during this project. That was really not my day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flairwoodworks Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Sort of off topic, but I live in a house with a baby in it. The night before, when I started the prototype, I got 2 cuts on the chop saw, then got yelled at. So I had to stop. The next morning I made two bevel cuts to the lid, and had to stop since we had to go to breakfast, sigh. Well when I got back I finished the other two bevels, got yelled at because the baby was sleeping . Well I decided that in the mean time I'd change out the blade for the dado blade. Well thats when this whole thing happened. After I the dado blade on, I made one test cut and one cut across the blank for the sides and put on the new blade and the wobble I couldn't return it that night because the store was closed early. Well f*ck! So I got two cuts at a time during this project. That was really not my day I really enjoy working with hand tools, even though I also have a fully-equipped shop. Often, after everyone has gone to bed, I will stay up into the morning working quietly at the bench with my hand planes, hand saws, and chisels without a mallet. It's quite gratifying making something without power tools. But I would not want to resaw or rip much stock by hand. Most of the work done with hand tools is trimming to length, joinery, and detail work (bevels, carving, etc.). If you have an extra grand kicking around, check out the Jointmaker Pro Have fun, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 I agree about checking the arbor for damage, if I were you get a quality blade and a dial indicator. I would just hate to see you get hurt from a out of control ts. Please let us know how you turn out. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 A little fan or air purifier for some white background noise might be just the ticket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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