Varathane wood accelerator


Ronn W
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Not familiar with the product, but what is she looking for? Vinegar & iron tend to make oak pretty dark. Is a driftwood color more to her liking? There are "white lime" finishes for hardwoid floors that might do the trick, or you can try another home-grown recipe with this:

 

http://www.drano.com/en-us/products/drano-professional-strength-crystals-clog-remover

 

It is just lye, which is supposed to give oak a more sun-bleached appearance.

 

 

Having said that, and even though I enjoy the mad scientist aspect of chemical treatments for coloring / aging wood, I do find them pretty inconsistent.

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I've heard if the wood isn't reacting enough, it might be due to a lack of tannins, which is what the vinegar/steel wool reacts with. Try steeping tea and brushing on a coat, let dry, then try the vinegar/steel wool mixture.

 

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Ii have been playing around with the accelerator.  The varathane is not very concentrated and gives white oak a bluish gray tint with some of the wood color showing through.  But when I put a coat of ARS on it the effect of the accelrator almost completely dissappeared.  Simlilar result with GF high performance water based poly.  Also, the and grit used in prep makes a difference 120 gives and darker and bluer color than 150 grit.

I also tried Varathanes stain (weathered oak)  It also has more gray but still a little bluish tint to it when it dries.  Then, just for the hell of it, I stained with General finishes white water based stain (quick rub on/rub off) over the varathane stain and got an got an interesting lighter gray that varied a litle with the grain but with less blue.  1 coat of ARS just darkened it slightly.  Just have to let my daughter pick what works for her.

I also tired a vinegar and steel wool recipe of various dilutions.  Some of the oak was a decent light gray but different grain directions gave me radically different colors on the same board from medium brown to purple depending on the strength of the mixture.

I have a batch of steel wool in pickle juice brewing right now.  I will try that in a couple of days.  I expect similar results to the vinegar.

Yeah, it's very inconsistent.  Right not I would be very hesitant to put it on a large 6/4 table top.  Now I am just rambling so I will stop/

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  • 2 months later...

I just sanded my cedar garage door that was originally stained and finished with urethane, down to the bare wood and want a weathered look, but with protection. I'm looking at a Penofin oil product that I can apply and reapply yearly without having to sand the finish off like I had to this time. I called the Rust-Oleum people that make the Varithane Weathered Accelerator and they said it was an interior product ONLY. Any ideas how I can get a grey weathered look prior to the oil application without sealing the pores of the wood so it will still accept the permitting oil?

The garage door is on our log home and a brand new looking garage door just doesn't fit esthetically.

 

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Baking soda an water gives white oak an weathered look play around with the amounts a little bit  because it will change the tint with just a small change in recipe. Marc has a old video on how to do it which I learned from. But make sure an check each board with mineral spirits first because the smallest grain mismatch will show I would upload a few pics but my stupid phone won't let me

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The quickest way to gray cedar is to get any kind of iron or steel residue on it. I found that out when I ground off a screw that was poking through, and suddenly a quarter of my deck around it turned gray. I would guess that the iron acetate methods would work pretty well on it - cedar will react with bare steel or iron.

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  • 3 years later...

Using iron acetate, or any other chemical colorant, can produce a wide variation in results, especially on different wood species. If you got a blue / purple shade, my guess is that your door is red oak. A single application doesn't penetrate too deeply, but the only way to effectively remove it is to sand or scrape back to raw wood. You can stain over it, but a pretty opaque stain will be necessary to hide the color.

A possible alternative would be to use an oxalic acid product to 'bleach' the wood. That might lighten the color enough for an applied stain to work without being so opaque.

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