bushwacked Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 I think my next project will be another cabinet, but I am thinking of using prefinished ply as I hate painting and remembered how much I did on the last cabinet project. So I was going to get edge banding but have heard horror stories of using iron on edge banding and melting or jacking of the finish on the prefin ply. So I was thinking of trying something else like just an adhesive type edge banding or something that is a non ironed edge banding. Also is there any prefinished edge banding? I guess I missed it so far if there actually is. Thoughts on how to attack prefinished ply with edge banding? I have never done edge banding before ... sooo keep that in mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 Tricky. First of all I would advise using 3/16" or 1/4" shop-made hardwood banding, glued and clamped with cauls...no nails. But the challenge will be trimming it flush and leveling it without damaging the already finished surface. That goes for all banding...but hardwood banding will be more durable and will contribute to an overall higher quality product. Then you also have the challenge of finishing. You could mask off but that's gonna be difficult to execute. There is no prefinished banding that I'm aware of...and if there was, I wouldn't want to use it anyway. IMO prefinished ply is more appropriate for a face-frame situation. I'd use raw ply if you're edge banding. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles11we Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 I agree that pre fin=face frames. Most of the banding that iv prefinished was put on with a big edge bander That being said you can iron on store bought prefibished edge banding thats meant for heat. It seems to be a bit more heat resistant than normal laquer but can still get messed up if you dilly dally too long. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 Iron on isn't so bad but it takes some practice. FastCap sells a edgeband trimmer that works pretty good. I never bother w masking , I just use a narrow foam brush and some water bourne finish. If the exterior of the cabinets is stained or painted use that. Iron on the edgeband and use a block of wood with the corners eased to rub the edging down as it cools. Trimming the ends works best after you trim the sides. I've got a guillotine looking tool to trim ends but it wasn't cheap and I rarely see them available. That end needs to be very flush if you are edgeing the next corner. I edgeband the bottom edge of wall cabinet sides first the up the front edge. Solid edgeband is more durable. If you make it 1/8 or less thick you can carefully brush a thin coat of yellow glue on the back of the edgeband and the cabinet edge the after it dries iron it in place. The heat melts/reactives the glue, rub to insure no loose sections. Most european frameless cabinets are edgebanded. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 This stuff is good: http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Wood-Veneer-Edgebanding-78-x-250-Iron-On-Pre-Finished.html It's prefinished iron on. E is right that trying to mask it off will be difficult and that hardwood banding would be a lot more durable and high quality. If you go with prefinished iron on then get one of these: http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Edge-Banding-Trimmer.html Best way to trim the edge without damaging. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted May 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 hmmmmm ok it sounds like prefinished ply would not be the easiest for what I am trying to do then. Ok, so I will get normal ply and work on my edge banding. I do not have any maple laying around to make a hardwood banding, yes I could by some I suppose but I have never done iron on banding or anything like that so just wanting to try new things. As far as edge banding tools/starter set ... Would these do the job? http://www.cabinetparts.com/p/fastcap-tools-and-templates-specialty-and-safety-tools-FCPLIERSFLUSHCUT?gclid=CjwKEAjw9MrIBRCr2LPek5-h8U0SJAD3jfhtlNwS9b5kOsQFUPt6voc8YbRo3OpF5x47YWJ17VzUHhoCwl3w_wcB http://www.rockler.com/fastcap-quad-edge-banding-trimmer?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=CjwKEAjw9MrIBRCr2LPek5-h8U0SJAD3jfht7aMpvjPWnRF8_zmVBkqSBOEdhkq74aVJDW8Cg8FpPRoCKL7w_wcB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted May 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 5 minutes ago, bgreenb said: This stuff is good: http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Wood-Veneer-Edgebanding-78-x-250-Iron-On-Pre-Finished.html It's prefinished iron on. E is right that trying to mask it off will be difficult and that hardwood banding would be a lot more durable and high quality. If you go with prefinished iron on then get one of these: http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Edge-Banding-Trimmer.html Best way to trim the edge without damaging. haha I guess you responded while I was typing ... OK, I will look into those links as well and see what I can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 Highly recommend using prefinished ply for cabinets. Finishing the insides of cabinets SUCKS and the finish on quality prefinished ply is damn near indestructible. I just finished doing an entire kitchen and used prefinished maple ply for the cabinet boxes. Let's just say I was firing that plywood all over my shop with zero regard for delicacy and it remained flawless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 What about using shop made solid wood banding and flushing it up with a flush trim router bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 16 minutes ago, bleedinblue said: What about using shop made solid wood banding and flushing it up with a flush trim router bit? You still risk damage from the bearing or very light glances from the bit...something you can repair with raw ply but not with finished. The Festool OF1010 edit: MFK700 - offers some advantages in this scenario, but it's another tool to buy for a very specific task...if you're not using it regularly for that reason it's probably not worth the investment. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 The MFK 700 does a great job on solid edgebanding. Micro adjustable and non spinning follower bearing. But the price is eye opening. Dust collection is only OK, maybe 65-70 % 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 3 minutes ago, wdwerker said: The MFK 700 That's the model I was thinking of, not the 1010. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 My MFK sits in the box for sometimes months then gets used 6-8 hours a day for a couple weeks. It paid for itself on the first job I did with it. It's not a one trick pony but it's a specialty tool focused on edgeing and trimming mostly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 1 hour ago, bleedinblue said: What about using shop made solid wood banding and flushing it up with a flush trim router bit? Don't do this. I ruined a piece and learned it the hard way. What E said is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted May 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 after all this talk of prefin or not prefin ply and stuff. then looking at the veneer site ... I might actually just make it from ply and find some nice veneer and go that route. Am I biting off more than I can chew by veneering the outside and cabinet doors? I dont think I would veneer the inside of the cabinet, for 1 it is just a cheap storage place and 2 that could get expensive haha. This cabinet will be all of about ... 24"H x 24"W x 7"D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 A block plane works well for flushing shop sawn edge banding. they key is to angle the plane like you are cutting a slight chamfer. That way the iron steers clear of the ply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 I have built a few cabinets with prefinished ply and had to add edge banding either due to it being a euro style cabinet or for shelves. I usually use the unfinished iron on edgebanding. I trim it with the fast cap trimmer but pull it apart to only trim one side at a time. I wipe the edgebanding with a coat or two of finish and im done. Super easy. I have not had any issues with the iron causing problems with the prefinish surface. I have not used the prefinished iron on style but that would be a good alternative. Prefinished ply is the way to go in a cabinet. The finish is super hard and....you dont have to put finish on the inside of a box. That is painful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
over40pirate Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 Anyone use a flush trim bit with a square bearing? Experiences? https://www.woodworker.com/34-diameter-14-shank-euro-trimmer-mssu-102-845.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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