Ronn W Posted September 2, 2017 Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 So I decided to amek a shooting board. After looking online I decided to try to make thos one ala Paul Sellers... https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=shooting+board&&view=detail&mid=35D1569AE85F200848CA35D1569AE85F200848CA&FORM=VRDGAR It was a lot of work and a dismal failure. Not true at all. Maybe I will try it again someday just to improve my hand skills and to porve to myself that I can to it. In the meantime I took an Mdf base piece, a hackberry guide and white oak stops and just glue this one together. It works 90 and 45 appear dead on ( I admit that I have not actually try to glue up a frame yet) but I have a couple of questions.... I could not get my LN LAJ plane to trim the end of the oak stops to the point where they were no longer engaging the blade. The blade would "bump out" at the stops causing the base of the plane to depart from its guide just a little. Dull blade? I honed the blade again too 8000 - no luck. I finally had to take 80 grit sand paper to remove just a little from the stops. Now it works but I think that I should have been able to do it with the plane. Also, I noticed that I have some very fine nicks in my 25 deg bevel "01" blade that weren't there before. They are visible only from the back side of the blade and are so slight that they really don't impair planing. I will remove them of course but why did they happen? Maybe I should have used a softer wood for the stops? Any comments or suggestions appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted September 3, 2017 Report Share Posted September 3, 2017 No longer engaging the blade... I am not sure that is worth chasing. Your work will project beyond the stop by a thou or more. No need to constantly be planing your stop. So go deep, plane the board and stops, leaving you with that lower edge for your plane to run against. Go shallow to plane your work just proud of the stops. A thou or two of projection should not cause breakout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted September 3, 2017 Report Share Posted September 3, 2017 Hard to figure out, without having the parts in my hand. The iron should trim the stops down until it doesn't have anything left to cut, while the ridge left at the bottom gauges the stop for the plane bottom One problem might be that the board that the stops are glued to comes up too high. The rabbet that limits the plane sole should only come up high enough to ever so barely engage the iron, and then the iron should trim it to match the stops. One great thing about the LV shooting plane is the typical Veritas set screws that put the iron back in exactly the same position every time it comes out for sharpening, and back in to work. Your's should do the same thing, but requires a little fiddling with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted September 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2017 16 minutes ago, Tom King said: Hard to figure out, without having the parts in my hand. The iron should trim the stops down until it doesn't have anything left to cut, while the ridge left at the bottom gauges the stop for the plane bottom One problem might be that the board that the stops are glued to comes up too high. The rabbet that limits the plane sole should only come up high enough to ever so barely engage the iron, and then the iron should trim it to match the stops. The board (guide bard) that the stops are glued to is 3/4". But wouldln't the plane create the rabbet regardless of the thickness of the guide board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted September 3, 2017 Report Share Posted September 3, 2017 That sounds like a technique issue. The plane is not being held against the side fence. This requires pressure from fingers at the lower end of the lever cap. Or add a tracking fence to the runway for the plane to run between. That will help a great deal. Regards from Perth Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted September 3, 2017 Report Share Posted September 3, 2017 1 hour ago, Ronn W said: The board (guide bard) that the stops are glued to is 3/4". But wouldln't the plane create the rabbet regardless of the thickness of the guide board? I think if you glued another board, for the plane to ride on, maybe 5/8" thick, that it would be a lot easier to operate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted September 3, 2017 Report Share Posted September 3, 2017 Add an adjustable l guide rail? Here's one of my earlier boards. the retaining rail was obviously added as an afterthought. I lucked out in that I had enough material to attach it with truss head screws into t-nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unknown craftsman Posted September 3, 2017 Report Share Posted September 3, 2017 I have no idea why you can't get the shoot board set up right. But I don't think the 80 grit sandpaper helped. You might have left some grit behind in the wood. That will nick you blade badly. Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 I tried again. This time I made spearate boards for 90 and 45 degrees and I used a softer wood (hackberry) for my stops. No problems. Waxed the base - slick. On 02/09/2017 at 10:17 PM, Unknown craftsman said: You might have left some grit behind in the wood. That will nick you blade badly. I am not sure but that sounds plausible. I did no sanding on the new boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unknown craftsman Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Glad you got them to work. I have terrible luck with shootin boards and tablesaw sleds. Ive built really nice looking ones spending a good half a day and not been happy.So I learned how to throw one together fast 15 mins.They seem to work better then my fancy ones. Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 21 hours ago, Unknown craftsman said: Ive built really nice looking ones spending a good half a day and not been happy.So I learned how to throw one together fast 15 mins.They seem to work better then my fancy ones. I hear you. I don't tend to take the time to make my jigs look nice. I just want them to work. Just built a sled for cutting miters for boxes - work piece flat and blade at 45 degrees. Just wanted to see it if works better than my miter gauge (which did OK on my last box). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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