BillyDoubleU Posted October 16, 2017 Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 Using Tung oil. Minwax Tung oil to be persice on Morado. I read that going above 220 on regular wood is wasted effort. Does going higher on irregular grain patterned wood like burl help or hinder? I ask because this set of Morado grips on the left has a couple lines that streak up at the irregular spots. Couldn't see it until a few coats of oil hit it. Is it just not taking the oil as well or too well? Should I be sanding with a finer grit between coats or wet sanding? I usually just buff it with a cloth and that does the trick but it's not on this wood. I have sand paper from 80-3000 grit... i initally sanded this batch to 1000 grit. The red oak to 800 and the more open grain just sucks up finish. I'm finding this Morado leaves more oil beaded up. Possible due to its higher oil content perhaps? Interested in your thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 16, 2017 Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 I think you are right to sand those pieces to higher grits than we normally use for furniture. A hand grip feels better if the wood is polished, rather than having a polished film over it. Not familiar with the morado, it sure looks nice. A common method for helping finishes adhere to oily wood is to wipe it down with acetone first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyDoubleU Posted October 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 http://www.wood-database.com/pau-ferro/ a rosewood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 16, 2017 Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 The higher grit you sand to, the more you start to burnish the surface which can inhibit penetration of the finish. Minwax tung oil is not actually tung oil...it's either a diluted varnish or an oil/varnish blend. Either way it has varnish in it so after a few coats you will start to build a tiny film and you will no longer be feeling the wood but the finish itself. So I would treat it like any other wiping varnish, applying 3-4 coats and sanding with 320 then 500 grit between coats, then polishing with 1000 grit after it cures. If you were using a true oil I would probably sand the raw wood to 320 then wipe on a few coats...but Minwax tung oil is not a true oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 16, 2017 Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 Over the years I have learned that the more you know about finishing the less Minwax products you use. It might be readily available but there is so much better stuff out there. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyDoubleU Posted October 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 4 hours ago, wdwerker said: Over the years I have learned that the more you know about finishing the less Minwax products you use. It might be readily available but there is so much better stuff out there. Why so? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 17, 2017 Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 So much better stuff available these days. Minwax finishes are at least 50 year old technology. General Finishes has a pretty good line of stains,dyes and top coats. A lot of it is water bourne and works very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyDoubleU Posted October 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 1 hour ago, wdwerker said: So much better stuff available these days. Minwax finishes are at least 50 year old technology. General Finishes has a pretty good line of stains,dyes and top coats. A lot of it is water bourne and works very well. Recommendations for a good Tung oil/wiping varnish that finishes well that isn't 100% pure and take a month to cure? Will typically be used on pistol grips. I have Truoil as well but everyone like the Tung oil finish best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 17, 2017 Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 That's not a finish I use these days. It will be a balancing act to find true tung oil with enough varnish in it to dry in a reasonable amount of time. Maybe check some gun restoration sites ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 17, 2017 Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 7 hours ago, BillyDoubleU said: Tung oil/wiping varnish This is really two different things: there's tung oil, then there's wiping varnish. One has nothing to do with the other unless you mix them together. Minwax has no business putting the words "tung oil" on that can. Honestly I don't know how they can even get away with it legally...maybe because they add the word "finish" at the end. It's not tung oil. Has no tung oil in it. Has nothing to do with tung oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyDoubleU Posted October 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 16 hours ago, Eric. said: This is really two different things: there's tung oil, then there's wiping varnish. One has nothing to do with the other unless you mix them together. Minwax has no business putting the words "tung oil" on that can. Honestly I don't know how they can even get away with it legally...maybe because they add the word "finish" at the end. It's not tung oil. Has no tung oil in it. Has nothing to do with tung oil. Well that's disappointing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 These are both real tung oil: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=20049&cat=1,190,42942 http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=20050&cat=1,190,42942 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 I've never used anything but Tru Oil on gunstocks, or grips, and don't have a good reason to use anything else. You can even buy it in the Walmart gun section. I think it does have Tung oil in it, but might be wrong. I'm sure you can find all sorts of youtube videos on how to use it. http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/341661-what-happened-tru-oil.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bankstick Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 Tru Oil is a refined linseed oil. Have used it for many years on gunstocks and other wood items. I don't recall it having tung oil but I would check the manufacturer's website for more info. Just checked the label- linseed oil and natural oils, which could be anything. The company is Birchwood Laboratories, FYI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyDoubleU Posted October 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 I have multiple bottles of Truoil. But folks prefer the Tung oil finish of those I've asked. I ended up sanding off the top coat. Wasn't looking good. The more open pored wood took a nice gloss coat. These were not. So guess what? I started to wipe off the excess after a few minutes. Now I'm getting a very nice satin finish. Which I prefer anyway. Either way, learning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 21 minutes ago, BillyDoubleU said: I have multiple bottles of Truoil. But folks prefer the Tung oil finish of those I've asked. Most people don't know what tung oil is. They heard someone say it and now they say it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyDoubleU Posted October 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 Probably right. I showed them different finishes and they pointed at the "Tung oil finish". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 In that case they chose an ersatz " tung oil" so no harm no foul. Wiping back the excess is important to get good results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyDoubleU Posted October 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 53 minutes ago, wdwerker said: In that case they chose an ersatz " tung oil" so no harm no foul. Wiping back the excess is important to get good results. This I'm finding. You know the only finish I ever put on a house we built was plywood... so much easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyDoubleU Posted October 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2017 Well I got more grips to finish but none of them burl. This time I'm gonna actually admit I don't know more than guys that have done finishing for a career. Belt sander is 120 grit. Hand sand with 150 then 220. Defuzz twice with 220 and then a final light 220 and done. Wipe on and wipe off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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