Pure Lee Valley Tung Oil waxy finish


Jgr327

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I’m applying Tung Oil on dark walnut. Sanded to 150 grit. Applied the oil, let sit for 20 mins. Wiped excess off. A day later when it dried I rubbed my finder on it and there is a waxy film. I’m able to buff the film off but it’s a pain. I’m going for a food safe finish on serving boards.  Am I doing something wrong? Need some help. 

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I have never seen that with the oil I use.  Is it possible that it came from dust settling on wet excess oil?  Maybe try wiping off the excess more thoroughly at application time and again in the next hour or two?

FWIW, I use Gulf Coast Tung Oil.  He is a local grower and producer of tung oil trying to revive the production of tung oil here on the gulf coast.  The product is top quality.

http://www.gulfcoasttungoil.com/

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This is pretty common with real/unpolymerized tung oil. It takes forever to cure and walnut can have really open pores. The tung oil weeps out of the pores long after the oil on the surface has cured. It sits on the surface partially cured and sticky, until it cures. The solution is to

1) babysit your piece and wipe off the oil

2) keep building more coats, sanding (220 or 320) in between. Eventually you build enough finish that the pores are sealed and the surface oil will cure.

3) thin the oil with mineral spirits. The won't speed curing (contrary to popular belief) but it will force you to use thinner coats, which do cure faster or

4) switch to a polymerized tung oil. This is a tung oil that had been heat treated, so it cures faster or

5) just use mineral oil, since he is making serving boards. Mineral oil is safe for food and easy to apply. Because it doesn't cure, it doesn't weep like tung oil (the weeping is due to heat and expansion that result from curing)

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Would it be correct to assume you flooded the surface with oil and let it sit for the 20min? I believe the wood is saturated with oil and is drying on the surface and the oil is pushing out while trying to dry. When you put a lot of hand cream on what happens? It takes forever to work it in the hands and dry. Do light coats making sure between each coat it has dried. 

I would strip the piece with a good chemical stripper using steel wool scrubbing with the grain to pull that oil out. Wash the wood good with mineral spirits. Let dry for 7 to 10 days. Start over and go easey build up.

-Ace-  

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  • 2 months later...

That converts to 55.4 to 59 F. I doubt if anybody would be applying a finish in below freezing 13 to 15 F. That is no teperature to even be in unless you live in International Falls, Minnesota, where they call that spring. It strikes me that 13 to 15 C is a bit cool for finishing.

Is 13-15 C° or F°?


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4 hours ago, Mycrossover said:

That converts to 55.4 to 59 F. I doubt if anybody would be applying a finish in below freezing 13 to 15 F. That is no teperature to even be in unless you live in International Falls, Minnesota, where they call that spring. It strikes me that 13 to 15 C is a bit cool for finishing.

 


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Doubt away, but we painted oil paints and performed other oiling operations at that range many times over at the paint store. If someone had that background and came to pure tongue without dryers in it, I was seeking to confirm that as it would guide the discussion in s different direction. It is always wise to ask rather than assuming. 

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