toolanddieguy Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 How Flat should a new saw top be? Just got my new saw in and the table is out of flat .012 inch at the back of the table. There is a spot by the throat plate that is .014 low. It looks like when it was ground the table lifted of the chuck because the finish is very rough in this area. I colored the top with a marker ,then rubbed it with a hone lightly to to highlight the low spots. Am I being too picky, cause I,m not exactly thrilled with this? I’m a toolmaker by trade,and work with much tighter tolerances than this. Is this just toolmaker OCD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 Just out of curiosity, what brand of saw is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuilderBill Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 Am I being too picky, cause I,m not exactly thrilled with this? I’m a toolmaker by trade,and work with much tighter tolerances than this. Is this just toolmaker OCD? I'd say yes to both, IF it's just a couple of small spots as you said. If there were larger areas that were involved I'd say you have a gripe. The back of the table has little influence on the quality of the cut and at the area around the blade the flatness of the throat plate would be 'way more important than the small dip in the area you highlighted. And what did you pay for the saw? Compare that to what you'd pay for a granite surface plate of similar dimensions as its top along with the letter of certification you'd require and expect as a toolmaker. Then look at all the extra parts you got thrown in in the bargain. If these two areas are all you you can find that aren't exactly perfect I'd have to say you got an exceptional machine, be thankful! Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolanddieguy Posted February 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 Bill,Thanks for the advice. Your probably right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 I would say it depends on what range of saw it is. If you bought a high end saw and paid a premium price I would contact them. If it is a budget saw than it is probably accceptable. I am also probably the wrong person you want to ask as I am very fussy! Even so like Bob said it isn't crucial to the function it is not estetically pleasing either. I bought a Steel City cabinet saw a couple yrs back and there were a couple pits in the cast iron wing, I took pics and contacted them. They were so great to deal with, understanding and apologetic and took care of it right away. In the end it is a judgment call and it is your decision. Good luck and let us know what you decide and how you turn out. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 If it effects the cut, I'd be concerned. If not, why fuss? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon003 Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 That looks like an incomplete grind, or post-manufacture damage. Those gullies look deep. If the tool is new, I'd get that swapped out. Not because of the way it affects the cut, but because grooves like that are a haven for moisture, debris, and other crud that contributes to rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 That feels like a lot to me. I would contact the manufacturer. The saw is brand new and whether it affects the cut or not, you will always know its there. If you are anything like me it will likely bother you. Free advice is worth what you pay for it, but if it were me, I'd contact them and let them know. I find that most companies are reputable and will try to make it right by you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Lets just say I wish my tablesaw was within .014, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuilderBill Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Lets just say I wish my tablesaw was within .014, lol. I was thinking of you when I first replied. Was wondering when you'd chime in, LOL Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Lets just say I wish my tablesaw was within .014, lol. You mean it's not?!?!! How bad is it? What's considered acceptable? -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 To tell you the truth, i cant answer that with numbers. "Too much" is the point where it actually affect your work. In most cases, you can still get acceptable rips and cross-cuts on a non flat table. Joinery is really the only major concern and as long as the area around your zero clearance insert is nice and flat, you're good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 "Too much" is the point where it actually affect your work. Well, that makes sense, although it does leave you to wonder if whatever problems you are having are due to a wavy saw top or something else. I seem to remember reading reviews where the best saws were within just a few thousandths of being flat over the entire surface of the table. On the other hand, in the current issue of Fine Woodworking, an article by Roland Johnson suggests that deviations less than .030" are okay. On my saw (an old Inca), the right and left sides of the table are about .015 higher than the middle. It's much better in the other direction. I certainly can't see where that dip from left to right has ever bothered me, maybe because it doesn't affect rip cuts very much, and I use a sled most of the time for crosscuts. As in many things, I guess, YMMV. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petersb Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 If it bothers you, then it's too much. It probably won't affect your results, but just knowing that it is there, after you put down your hard earned money, could make it worse than it is and you may always doubt it in your mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolanddieguy Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Just a quick update. They sent me a new saw top. I've made a few cuts ,and haven't had any problems. Don't think I'm going to go through with swapping the table out. My skill level isn't so great that the grooves or flatness are going to mess up what I'm doing. Side note got any great ideas on what to do with an extra cast iron table? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Side note got any great ideas on what to do with an extra cast iron table? If you're not going to use the new one, seems like the stand up thing to do would be to send it back. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 If you're not going to use the new one, seems like the stand up thing to do would be to send it back. -- Russ Yeah...I wonder if they'd pay the return s/h? It's already been an expensive venture for them. I bet it'd cost $35+ to ship it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 My advice would be to make the swap and keep the original table as a spare, in case something happens. I'm with Russ, seems dodgy to ask for a replacement table and keep using the "defective" one. "What could happen to a cast iron table?" you ask... RustDrop something on it that dings it enough to make a differenceDecide to mount your router in it and screw up when drilling the holesMoving accidentDid I mention rust?Since I'm lazy, and would rather spend my shop time making sawdust than assembling tools, I'd probably plan to install the new table one of these days, but use the defective table in the meantime. Either way, you've got a spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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