roughsawn Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 The next shop project for me, personally, is going to be a new workbench. I have a couple plans for the bench, but would like to ask you guys for your opinion about how I should build the top. My current benchtop is 3' X 6'. That has worked well for almost...or maybe 10 years. The cabinet under it is not stout enough for my upgraded usage...so I'll just build a new one. I think I'd like to stay the same size, or maybe 5' X 30". We'll see. How thick would you guys suggest? How many laminations of what material? What different materials should be finished with what finish? How much overhang past the cabinet for clamping, etc.? I have seen gee-dubs post about his hell-for-stout bench, and really like it. My first inclination is 3 layers of 3/4" MDF surrounded by 1" oak edging. I want it to sit on a solid cabinet (drawers/drawer fronts) for extra storage that I am running out of. I could tuck that cabinet inside a heavy base of oak legs and cross braces. I would like to be able to roll it around. to move it. I currently have the rollers on each corner that have the plates you step on, to cam them up to move the bench. That works well. I know you guys can give me ideas that I have not thought of. Heck...even throw out ideas for the whole thing, if you want. Probably going to just go with an end vise. This is a jack of all trades workbench. I have a secondary top with laminate that I throw on it for cleaning fish. I cover it with heavy cardboard to skin animals during the trapping season. I cover it with laminate to butcher deer. But mostly, use it for woodworking. I'd really appreciate some ideas of how you would build yours, if you had a clean slate to work with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 A lot depends on the type of woodwork you plan to do. If you do much hand-tool stuff, having the legs flush with the front edge is very handy for holding boards while working their edge. I prefer a lamination of boards on edge, rather than stacked sheet goods. That is mostly because I do a lot of cutting directly on the surface, and occasionally drive in a screw for work holding. A thick lamination of SPF is somewhat self-healing, and easy to resurface when it does get chewed up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 I use 1.5" mdf. Mine is 4 x 6. It lays flat. It needs varnish. I add coats of leftover varnish. The top is not attached which allows me to move it as needed. Not appropriate for the man cave shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 I agree that a laminated top - pieces about 1 1/2" wide on end make a nice stable top. Thickness from 2 1/2 ot 3 1/2" makes a nice solid surface for chisel work and provides a good surface on the edge or ends for a bench clamp. The species of wood is not so critical so long as it is not too soft. I finish mine with a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil. Glue and occasioinal varnish drips scrape of easily. As for clanping aorund the edges - leave 3 to 4 inches. My bench is a split top. It to 12" wide x 73" long parts each made of 8 1 1/2" wide pieces glued together. There is a 2" gap (split) between the 2 halves for a total width of 26". I find that the gap in the split top comes in very handy for clamping a workpiece in place sometimes. Also nice to be able to set my router down on its base with the extended bit in the gap. Good luck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roughsawn Posted March 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 On 3/26/2022 at 6:48 AM, wtnhighlander said: A lot depends on the type of woodwork you plan to do. If you do much hand-tool stuff, having the legs flush with the front edge is very handy for holding boards while working their edge. I don't do much hand tool work, and what I do, I usually can hold in the vice. I want a large enough surface for cabinet glue ups. With the price of 6' 2X4's, and the extra work to mill, glue, and mill again after glue up, I think I'd rather laminate 3 layers of sheet goods. MDF is plenty stable, and wrapped with oak, the edges should stay protected. I forgot, tho, that I will need some meat at the end of the table for a vice. Can you give me some links, or suggestions for end vises? I can do some searching and see what will work for me. And know how to prepare the top for that. Also, any suggestions on the casters is appreciated. I use Power Tech, and they are ok. Not great, but ok. Rockler makes a set now, that you can remove the wheels by pulling a pin, when you drop the bench down where you want it. Ronn, I don't think I'm going with the split top style. One roomy, solid surface would fit my needs a little better. More breaking down sheet goods, and glue ups than anything else. When I break down sheets, I lay it on foam. When I rip rough cut lumber with the track saw, I hang the cut over the edge, and clamp the plank to the bench top. I certainly don't baby the top. Will MDF hold up to abuse, if it has plenty of BLO or Poly on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 I think @gee-dub uses at least one bench that is much like you describe. Maybe he will drop a tip or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 Thanks @wtnhighlander. I did a quick look but I believe my MDF topped benches were made before I joined so there may not be a build thread. In short, my second MDF topped bench was 4 layers of 3/4" MDF. Here it is at about 5 years of age. I used that bench near-daily for 7 or 8 years. I realized I had made it too big and did a new build. The original bench and vises were gifted to a novice woodworker who lived near my dad. He was happy to get it and I was happy that it would have a good home. The 'next' bench (I started calling them 'next' since there doesn't seem to be a 'last') was two layers of 3/4" BB-like ply and two layers of 3/4" MDF. This is the bench I am still using today. This pic is from my old shop. The four layer 3/4" MDF bench finished with a flooding of 1:1 mix of BLO:mineral spirits, paste waxed annually or thereabouts: Pros - Heavy, solid, takes a beating, good dog hole retention, glue tends to pop right off. Cons - Too big for my space, base supported many drawer units but allowed minimal reach-under and would not support twin screw vises. Lots of support cross members to maintain flatness as MDF will sag over time. Base made from construction lumber resulted in a high amount of waste product. Construction lumber wrap around proved too soft for my bench duty. Base material continued to have wood movement issues over the years. The two laminated layer 3/4" ply with two laminated layer of 3/4" MDF bench finished with a flooding of 1:1 mix of BLO:mineral spirits, paste waxed annually or thereabouts: Pros - Heavy, solid, takes a beating, good dog hole retention, glue tends to pop right off. Laminated plywood layers are nearly self-supporting allowing greater access underneath for reach-under and overhang for twin screw vises. Poplar base remains stable and actually cost less than construction grade lumber due to minimal waste. Hard maple wrap around has worked much better as an end treatment / rear chop material. Cons - Goofball that designed it miscalculated dog hole positions and two are too close to the base; usable but, could have been better. The base designs of both are similar, simple, strong designs. I believe I stole the basic idea from a Woodsmith article. I could try to dig it up if it will help. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roughsawn Posted March 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 Thanks gee-dub. Interesting pros and cons. I'm surprised to hear that the MDF will sag over time. I absolutely want to avoid that. My original post was kind of long winded, but my needs are pretty simple: 1) Large flat surface, that stays flat...and will hold up to abuse. 2) Sturdy base, half lap or M&T, weight not an issue, that can be moved. 3) Ability to install a cabinet with 6 big drawers underneath. 4) A vise of some sort, end or corner, for occasional hand work and general clamping. I guess I better not rule out laminating 2X4's. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted July 15, 2022 Report Share Posted July 15, 2022 My top for 15+ years was one layer of particle board.. Not sure why I would use MDF for a top unless it was free.. MDF isnt as ridgid as PB... I was given a 8/5 hickory butcher block and use it because it was free.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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