Seeking Your Advice

[Hammer5573]

I was recently given some black walnut which was harvested from our farm. I would like to make a tea table and I'm especially interested in a piece measuring 10" x 1" x 48" due to its outstanding figure. I would like to book match it for the table top. I'm considering resawing and planning it into two 1/4" thick pieces and then gluing them to a piece of 3/4" MDF to serve as a backer board. In my opinion it is no different than applying veneer to MDF. Do you agree..?

[Gary Beasley]

Be sure and get the moisture content stable. Black walnut is prone to movement as it dries, especially the pretty figured areas. I once made a bowl from some highly figured black walnut root ball that pretty much turned into a sieve by the time it was fully dry.

[Ronn W]

+1 on the moisture content.   Thicker veneer tends to be more subject to expansion and contraction problems than thin veneer.  I would make you veneer as thin as possible - like under 1/8" if you can.  Don't forget the backer veneer on the other side.

[pkinneb]

On 12/14/2023 at 11:20 AM, Ronn W said:

+1 on the moisture content.   Thicker veneer tends to be more subject to expansion and contraction problems than thin veneer.  I would make you veneer as thin as possible - like under 1/8" if you can.  Don't forget the backer veneer on the other side.

I'm with Ronn on this, 3/32 to 1/8" thickness and veneer both sides.

[Chestnut]

Cuting thinner also yields more awesome.

These drawer fronts all came from 1 6/4 board.

[Hammer5573]

On 12/14/2023 at 12:20 PM, Ronn W said:

"Don't forget the backer veneer on the other side"

I was under the opinion that a backer veneer was not necessary when using MDF...?

[Chestnut]

For large pieces it's always a good idea to balance veneer.

[Hammer5573]

On 12/15/2023 at 7:30 PM, Chestnut said:

For large pieces it's always a good idea to balance veneer.

Thanks Chestnut....!