A question for luthiers


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The handplane would make me a bit nervous if you have an ebony neck, since it’s more prone to chip. Unless you need to remove a lot, I’d stick with sanding blocks. Setting and filing the frets isn’t bad. Might be worth getting those cutters/pliers he used to pull out the frets without damaging the fingerboard. 

Almost every step of making my uke was outside my woodworking comfort zone because it seemed so different, but once you get started you realize that the wood and tools still interact the same way as if it was a box or a table. 

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On 3/12/2024 at 8:31 PM, JohnG said:

The handplane would make me a bit nervous if you have an ebony neck, since it’s more prone to chip. Unless you need to remove a lot, I’d stick with sanding blocks. Setting and filing the frets isn’t bad. Might be worth getting those cutters/pliers he used to pull out the frets without damaging the fingerboard. 

Almost every step of making my uke was outside my woodworking comfort zone because it seemed so different, but once you get started you realize that the wood and tools still interact the same way as if it was a box or a table. 

One can't miss how finely tuned his plane had to be to cut that finely & evenly. But for the fret cuts I'd lean toward scrapers, but a scraper plane might grab at the cuts. He spoke of using a block plane, and that probably a low angle. The use of a 5 seems to me odd but seeing it work makes sense. a 5 1/2 might cover the whole surface. I'd be tempted to a lower angle, like the Lie 164 or similar. But then I'm no luthier. Nor am I going to use my 2E as a guinea pig.

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On 3/13/2024 at 8:05 AM, collinb said:

a 5 1/2 might cover the whole surface. 

Most fretboards have a radius to them so you don't really want to cover the whole surface.  A classical guitar, like the one in the video, may have little to no radius but that just depends on that particular guitar.

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