Finishing Box Beams in New Home

[Swan362]

Hi - I'm looking for advice on what I should use to finish re-sawn reclaimed heart pine box beams going into a vaulted ceiling.  These are yet to be installed, so I can finish them before they go up.  BUT, I'm thinking down the line that they will be difficult to reach/access for maintenance.  My first thought was hard wax oil for the look, but I'm not sure if that's a "forever" finish (say, at least 10 years) or if I would really need to get some more oil in them every few years, which would be a pain.  Seeking a natural look.  I'm planning on using hard wax oil on the floors that will also be heart pine.  Thanks!

[gee-dub]

How much area are we talking about?  My knee-jerk response is shellac like in a mountain cabin.  This could be rolled like paint.  Lacquer would also be a good choice but used in large amounts requires some basic finishing tools or a lot of rattle cans.

[wtnhighlander]

Some knowledge of the beams' surface texture might help. You called the 're-sawn', does than mean a rough surface?

[drzaius]

I wouldn't use an oil or any finish that needs to be wiped on/off, on a rough sawn surface. You wouldn't be able to properly remove the excess and it would form a bit of a sticky mess that would never fully dry.

[Tom King]

I've built millions of dollars worth of homes with Pine and some Heart Pine ceilings and beams, never putting anything on the ceilings, including in the house we've lived in coming up on 45 years.  I don't see any advantage to putting anything on it.  Age is the best finish for unhandled Pine.

Here is an unfinished Pine ceiling in a house I built in 1991.  I remembered that I had this picture in here.  The Pine trim boards on the skirt of the balcony are unfinished too.  This house recently resold for 2.5 million dollars.

[Mark J]

And if you do put a finish coating on the wood there is not going to be any physical (or chemical) wear on ceiling beams.  So if it is a curing finish it should last indefinitely. 

[Tom King]

The trouble is if any water ever gets in under the finish, the wood will mold/stain and you won't be able to get to it without taking the finish off.

[Swan362]

Thanks everyone for your input.  Much appreciated.

[Swan362]

On 11/15/2024 at 9:42 AM, drzaius said:

I wouldn't use an oil or any finish that needs to be wiped on/off, on a rough sawn surface. You wouldn't be able to properly remove the excess and it would form a bit of a sticky mess that would never fully dry.

Thanks.  Maybe something like a waterlox - brush on (not wipe off) but the look of oil.

[drzaius]

57 minutes ago, Swan362 said:

Thanks.  Maybe something like a waterlox - brush on (not wipe off) but the look of oil.

If you do apply a finish, make it flat or mat for a more natural look.

[dwilliam]

Hard wax oil is a great choice for a natural look, and it offers some durability. While it’s generally long-lasting, it might require occasional maintenance, especially in high-traffic areas. For the beams, you might want to consider a durable clear polyurethane or a tung oil finish, which can also provide a natural appearance and might require less frequent reapplication. If maintenance is a concern, a more robust finish might be the way to go.