Cynthia in BC Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 This is my first question so please be gentle. I'm a greenhorn. I had to cut down several "big leaf" maple trees last summer and I saved several big pieces from the trunk bottoms. I brought the pieces inside my shop (with difficulty) and have them off the floor on boards, painted with latex paint and dusted with anti-insect powder. No cracks yet. I have several pieces that measure about 28" diameter and 28" high. I want to make something that is about 20" X 20" X 20" high, think of a cube that's hollowed out underneath, like a small cube table. My problem is that obviously the wood is wet, but I don't want to wait until 2050 to work with the wood. What do I do? Should I cut them down further? Will I risk checking the best part, the meat of the wood? Should I cut one down and hollow it out inside while it's wet? Could I do a DNA bath like some turners do with green wood? Is there anything I can do? Thanks, Cynthia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 sorry cynthia dont know much about this im just posting on here so that i can keep track this post and learn from it. good luck though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GNiessen Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 My father did an Eagle carving out of a Tree over 72" x 28". What he told me of his attempts to let it dry without cracking: Rough out the shape early, leaving a 1/2" or so to your final shape. Boring into the wood some holes where you later plan to hollow it out helps dry it out from the inside faster. But coat any end grain that might dry too fast. If you are going to paint it later, then you can use a glycol solution to replace the water in the wood and avoid shrinking. But it will discolor the woods, so avoid if you are going for a clear finish. Put them somewhere where they will get good airflow and warmer helps. Consider a top shelf or an attic crawl space near a vent. And wood cracks. Work with the character and don't cry if a crack does appear. He glued in shims in a few places with contrasting wood on one project and it was an amazing accent. And butterfly keys are a nice touch on a split surface. And be patient. I have some big wood that I will just have to wait for. When I rush it, it costs time and aggravation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynthia in BC Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Thanks Gordon, I appreciate the feedback. Boring some holes is a good idea I hadn't thought of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Reuten Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Hi Cynthia, If the pith is in the chunk, it is very likely going to crack on you eventually unless you are uncommonly blessed in some way. I would say go ahead and work it green. Hope for the best and come up with an interesting fix when it blows itself to pieces. The hollowing idea could help to at least dry it faster. The turners PEG or glycol could help as well. I've seen a fellow shipwright soak his freshly made mast hoops in ethyl glycol (antifreeze) to stabilize the green oak. If you try that, don't let kitty lick the table or you'll be shopping for a new cat. I'm not recommending it. I'm just saying I saw it. Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 sorry cynthia dont know much about this im just posting on here so that i can keep track this post and learn from it. good luck though You don't need to post to track a thread. Look at the top of the page on the right hand side. A magic button labeled "Follow this Topic". Click that and you'll follow it just as if you posted. Doesn't increase your post count, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 You don't need to post to track a thread. Look at the top of the page on the right hand side. A magic button labeled "Follow this Topic". Click that and you'll follow it just as if you posted. Doesn't increase your post count, though. ya but i wanted cynthia to know that there are other out there who having similar problems and that what she posted is a good question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Sorry, but probably going to crack no matter what you do -- unless you are very very lucky ==> ethyl glycol seen that -- can help You are in BC? There are probably some commercial mills in your area. Would give one a call and ask for some advice. I had some 20/4 to dry and the local mill gave me some good advice (after the 'it's going to crack'). What to do depends on the species. They gave me different advice for each of the species that I had to work with. PS. Did crack, but just the nature of the beast and incorporated it into the design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombarde16 Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Boring into the wood some holes where you later plan to hollow it out helps dry it out from the inside faster. Holes, and even slicing the log down the middle. The Japanese refer to this as se-wari or "spine cutting". From any point on the outside of a wet log, rip a kerf halfway through the center of the log. As the log dries, this kerf will open up; viewed from the end, the log will become a Pac-Man shape. Once the log is at the target moisture, mill and insert a wedge to fill the gap. Effectively, this process takes all the little, random cracks that a log would otherwise display and focuses them into a single, controlled crack that you can fill in later. More about the process (with a picture) at http://www.ibiblio.org/japanwood/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=956&sid=86941bdb2e556839b7e72a6476df43f6 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynthia in BC Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 I decided I didn't want to risk cracking big thick pieces and waiting decades for them to dry. So I had a guy come over and mill the chunks for me into 1-3" slabs. I haven't stacked and stickered them yet (too tired). Question: Would it be okay to stack them in the furnace room? It's not hot in there, just a couple of degrees warmer than the rest of the house. Or is it better to have them outside in the breeze? (under cover)? I'd be happy to upload some photos if I could figure out how...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 It'll still take about 3 years to air-dry a 3" slab. The rule of thumb is one year per inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephens_Shop Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 I had some cherry from a tree that blew down a few years back. Italmost took out the front porch but I could not let them chip it into nothingness. I wish I knew about this site then, I may have saved some from cracking and bending. Now I am hoping I can salvage some small portions. great advisehear, good luck Cynthia Stephen (a fellow BC,r). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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