teak koi fish bowl


duckkisser

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ok here is a stone inlay koi fish in a teak bowl. for those of you who checked out my earler posting yes this one came from a garage sale as well.  its made from serpintine-pad shapes, howlite-white, yellow marble-fish body, pipestone-red spots, the fins are made from carnelian which is a translucent orange stone. im thinking that i will try to use a piece of steel to burn the stone to create shading and details but im going to try it on a scrap piece first to figure out if i can do it or if it will just skip across the surface.  

 

ok a couple years ago i was playing with a diamond burr that the tip had worn down. and when i touched it to a inlay that i was doing it ended up burning the stone or the super glue leaving behind a black line. then i used this to draw lines on my stone. i created some cool details to a flower creating some depth. eventuly it stoped doing that and just ran across the surface. i just finished a koi fish inlay on a bowl and i want to add detail to the surface. i had thought to do the same thing to draw the scales and folds in the fins ect... but i have no real experience burning stone. or even drawing on the stone. does anyone know anything about burning stone? or know of a marker or pen that wont run and blur with the finishes. maybe i can etch the stone and rub ink into the etched lines.

 

anyone who knows anything about metal if you know if there is a way to burn the stone please let me know. 

 

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You are actively posting inlay pics (my "inlay" history is almost all door hardware) and I have enjoyed watching what you post. If that is waiting, then yes:-) I was curious what your OP meant by "pads" (now obvious) and also was curious what you would like to burn. My experience with stone is that it fractures with heat. You may have to look for different shades of the stone.

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Duck, I doubt you can reliably create marks on stone by burning. However, a sharp machinist's scribe works well for engraving most types of stone. Once engraved, rub a little black artist's pigment into the lines. Ink is generally too thin. Google "scrimshaw" for more details on the technique. It is tedious, but can provide extremely fine detail to your inlay work.

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If your diamond burr works on other hard materials, it should work on stone. Is this a burr that goes into a dremel-type tool? If so, you may find that it is difficult to form as fine a line as with a scribe, but the concept is certainly the same. And yes, traditional scrimshaw is done on ivory or bone, but the technique works on all sorts of materials, including stone, glass and hard plastics.

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Can't wait to see what you turn out! I've only done some simple lettering on MoP inlays this way, but my father has done a number of bone and micarta knife handles for a friend of his who makes the knives. Dad is a very talented visual artist & illustrator. When I get home after work, I'll try to post a photo of one of the knives that I own.

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Most of the inlay is 5-9 on MOHs scale I think alabaster is 2-3 on the scale so there is quite a difference so ya I might have to use diamond files and burrs.

Just got done cuting and grinding a few cabochons that is a lot of fun glad I bought this combination lapidary saw and grinders.

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