ajs432 Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 So I'm a newb and I have a project I need to complete to finish my basement. Lally pole cover boxes go for $130 online and essentially they just send you some lock mitered MDF and some masonry screws. I figure I should be able to buy the bit and save a ton of money and just do it myself. Well, cheapest well reviewed bit I can find is $80 and I don't have a router table which it seems like is a necessity for this bit. So looking for alternatives that would be strong enough to hold up to someone leaning on this thing with nothing but cleats on the floor and ceiling and the column itself. Any suggestions? Looking to spend $50 or less, otherwise may as well pony up the $130 for the pre mitered boards. Tools I have at my disposal: Table Saw, Circular Saw, Compact Router, Compound Miter Saw, plus dowel jig and the usual hand tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 you can do this on the table saw with a mitered spline joint, you cut the 45deg. miters on all your pieces leaving the 45deg. angle on the saw put the fence on the other side of the blade, now lower the blade and adjust the fence to make the spline slots. Now make your spline stock and it will look something like this practice on some scrap to dial in your technique. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 Lally Pole - Now that's a new one on me. Looked it up and found this. Maybe of use to ya. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJNzCi0G2zk Higtron, you must have a basement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 Hey Coop, I hear builders say lally column. I wrap cylindrical steel by cutting square blocks of stock after drilling holes the size of the column through. I can use the blocks as glue or nail supports. The wrap is then fully braced on the column with no need to fasten to the concrete. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted August 13, 2014 Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 Here's a ally wrap I did in the dining room of a bar. Attached at the floor and ceiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Here's a ally wrap I did in the dining room of a bar. Attached at the floor and ceiling.Darnnnnn Dude, you do good work!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajs432 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 K Cooper I saw that video too, but I also read that you aren't supposed to have any wood touching the pole, would also need to buy a pretty hefty bit to bore a 3" hole in the wood which would probably be just as costly as the lock miter bit. Death By Potato, what kind of support did you use, this looks amazing.. I just feel like gluing and tacking a straight 45 miter to make the box won't be that sturdy if someone leans on the thing with any force. Like I said still a noob so I may not have a great feel with how strong different bonds are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Lots of ways to do this. One way is to make a simple mitered box and add a glue block in each corner. Long grain to long grain glue joints are as strong as wood, so you shouldn't have a strength problem. This is a top view, and you are looking at the end grain of all the pieces. The corner blocks can run the full height of the column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4-Square Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 <So I'm a newb and I have a project I need to complete to finish my basement. Lally pole cover boxes go for $130 online and essentially they just send you some lock mitered MDF and some masonry screws. I figure I should be able to buy the bit and save a ton of money and just do it myself. > Piece of free advice from someone who's been there... If your requirement is a high-degree of fit/finish, then don't attempt to make these yourself until you've got some experience. The responders have all provided solid advice, but without tuned-up tooling and some experience, it's difficult to execute seam-free miter joints over an 8' span (read as you won't be able to do it -- not on all 4 corners -- not over an 8' span). These guys make it look easy, because they've got the experience to make it look easy... Shop around for column covers -- there are pre-assembled octagonal covers all glued-up, sanded, primed and delivered as two 4-sided halves -- the two components have tongue/groove joints to assist in final registration for glue-up. Yes, they cost money. But if your requirement includes fit/finish, then in the long run it will be cheaper to just buy the fit/finish -- trust me on this -- like I said above, been there and have the battle scars to prove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajs432 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 4-Square, where is the fun in that? I have nothing but time to sand and a large tub of wood putty, haha. Beechwood, Just looked into glue blocks, I think this is going to be the way to go. Thanks everyone, I'll tell you how it went after the weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Regarding the need for large diameter drill bits, see this: Drilling Holes Larger than your Largest Bit: http://youtu.be/oHGw5Y2rwxk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Practice on short pieces before doing the whole 8' column! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Sorry I didn't get back to you guys, I've been busy preventing my basement from flooding because we don't have a pump. Anyways, my column was anchored on top and bottom with big L-brackets. Attached up top to the header, attached on the concrete floor with tapcons. Also notice that the wood column is not touching the concrete. it is about 1 inch off the floor. Once the tile was done I put my base and shoe on. It's solid as a rock, Its a glued and screwed box underneath and trimmed with a face frames mitered around the corners and moldings to make it all pretty. Feel free to drive screws into the main box, just make sure they are in an area that will get capped in the face frame or molding. I've seen a couple of heavyweights lean against it to have conversations, so that'll tell you something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajs432 Posted August 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Sorry I didn't get back to you guys, I've been busy preventing my basement from flooding because we don't have a pump. Anyways, my column was anchored on top and bottom with big L-brackets. Attached up top to the header, attached on the concrete floor with tapcons. Also notice that the wood column is not touching the concrete. it is about 1 inch off the floor. Once the tile was done I put my base and shoe on. It's solid as a rock, Its a glued and screwed box underneath and trimmed with a face frames mitered around the corners and moldings to make it all pretty. Feel free to drive screws into the main box, just make sure they are in an area that will get capped in the face frame or molding. I've seen a couple of heavyweights lean against it to have conversations, so that'll tell you something. Ah I see, so you screwed at the edges but it didn't matter because it was covered by the molding. Makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 K Cooper I saw that video too, but I also read that you aren't supposed to have any wood touching the pole, would also need to buy a pretty hefty bit to bore a 3" hole in the wood which would probably be just as costly as the lock miter bit. Lots of ways to skin the cat but want to come back to this FYI. A four inch hole saw bit for a drill costs less than $20.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Ah I see, so you screwed at the edges but it didn't matter because it was covered by the molding. Makes sense. Exactly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajs432 Posted September 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 So as a quick update, I ended up going with a kit I found online for $130/column. After the cost of white boards and the bits I would have needed it just made sense. Also came with molding so a huge time saver. What I ened up doing was making a simple collar the size of the inside square to hold it in place, glued three sides, a quick few screws to hold in place and then used a healthy coat of Great Stuff and then glued the fourth side. Came out great, I'm 300lbs and I leaned on it and it didn't budge. Will send pictures after I get the second on up this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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