Still learning Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 As some of you may know I have to redo a property we have, it will be going up for sale once the remodel is done. It was a show home when we purchased it and am hoping to bring it to the same standard only more modern. I did up this door and drawer pull, and was looking for extra opinions or tips on how to improve as I am my own worst critic. My wife says she likes them but she seems to like most things I make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Still learning Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 I have been trying to upload another picture but seems they are too big, I am stumped on how to cover the white (the ends of the cupboards) to match the doors, could or should I plane some similar wood down to a thin layer and glue it on or.................? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 The design looks rustic, like something that would be in a cabin. But the execution is not, they are too nicely made. So, if it's rustic your after, then don't do such a good job of making them. But if you want a show home look, then you need to come up with a more refined design. What kind of wood is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 To his previous post i believe you were talking about walnut, though that doesn't look like walnut. I really hate to be a critic but it looks like something that someone would paint white. I personally like panel doors makes them lighter. Looks wise i can get behind anything that's not too elaborate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Still learning Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 It is walnut. I have been searching the Internet for ideas, I picked up a book from Home Depot and there seems to be a lot of "natural walnut" these days and also the flat panel, thought I could combine the two. So would a raised panel with the same layout be better? I am not sure I understand refined design. Oh and I can't paint good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkrusen Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 For a home you're going to be selling, I think the best bet is a simple Shaker style door. They are super fast and simple to build and are a timeless look. The new homeowner will most likely be happy with them. And if not, then they will easily able to change the look by switching out the hardware or painting the doors. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 Google "kitchen cabinets" & look at the pictures. That will be a good start & will give you more ideas about what you are looking for. mkrusen's suggestion is a good one. The second board from the right on the door looks like walnut, but the others look like SPF that has been very nicely stained. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 1 hour ago, Still learning said: I have been trying to upload another picture but seems they are too big, I am stumped on how to cover the white (the ends of the cupboards) to match the doors, could or should I plane some similar wood down to a thin layer and glue it on or.................? Are the doors inset or overlay? The best way to make the face frames match the cabinets is to buy some veneer specifically for refacing cabinets. There are several companies that sell it, but here is a how to http://www.rockler.com/how-to/refacing-cabinets-veneer/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Still learning Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 They are overlay so no real need for face frames and the originals are mdf with a plastic covering to which has been ripped off at several places, not worth trying to salvage. That veneer is interesting for the end panels. I was originally going to make a shaker door, did a post on kijiji for someone to finish them for me and the prices I got back was going to eat too much of my budget so was hoping to do it all myself. I have no luck or skill in being able to match inserts to the frames and don't know anyone personally that does this. Anyone with tips on how to do that would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 3 hours ago, Still learning said: They are overlay so no real need for face frames and the originals are mdf with a plastic covering to which has been ripped off at several places, not worth trying to salvage. That veneer is interesting for the end panels. I was originally going to make a shaker door, did a post on kijiji for someone to finish them for me and the prices I got back was going to eat too much of my budget so was hoping to do it all myself. I have no luck or skill in being able to match inserts to the frames and don't know anyone personally that does this. Anyone with tips on how to do that would be greatly appreciated. I would do 1/4" plywood for the sides of the cabinets, and veneer for the face frames. You can cover the plywood with the veneer. Depending on how clean the MDF is you might need to glue a thicker shop made veneer over the face frames instead of the thinner stuff. Here is a how to on simple shaker doors using a table saw http://jayscustomcreations.com/2014/10/making-tongue-and-groove-cabinet-doors-with-a-table-saw/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Still learning Posted February 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Thanks everyone for all the input, actually helped me get my blinders off. Decided to go with a maple shaker door and paint them white, my brother was kind enough to agree to spray them for me. Now just have to build something to incorporate the pieces I already made. Have a great day everyone. "A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match at kickboxing" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 7 hours ago, Still learning said: Thanks everyone for all the input, actually helped me get my blinders off. Decided to go with a maple shaker door and paint them white, my brother was kind enough to agree to spray them for me. Now just have to build something to incorporate the pieces I already made. If you are doing paint grade and the house is going to be sold I would find a cheaper wood than maple. Wood prices vary by region, but here in Texas poplar is the paint grade wood of choice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Still learning Posted February 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Being I am not an experienced fine wood worker and used to metal I find I can do a better job with the harder woods, I tried to make some doors out of poplar for our bathroom last fall and ended up tossing them into the wood stove as I didn't like the way they turned out. Maple is actually relatively cheap here and it fits into my budget with room to buy more tools . Estimated it out and it will be about 260.00 for all the materials. There is 20 doors and 12 drawer pulls. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Yep, that's cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Still learning Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Well I have taken a step into the dark side, I bought a couple sheets od mdf for counter tops and once I had the size cut out I realized I had a lot left over so I zipped them through the table saw and have just about enough pieces for the doors, I guess they are going to be made out of mdf. I was kicking around the idea of stacking them side by side and running them through the planer just to get them perfectly flat and square. Is this a good idea or bad? I have never worked with this stuff before and not sure what a planer would do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Bad idea to run MDF through a planer or jointer unless you have carbide knives. It will dull steel very quickly, like in just a few passes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Still learning Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Ok, thanks drzaius. Stack and sand. What is the best grit to start with, I have used the orbital and the 1/4 sheet so far, the 1/4 sheet with 220 grit seemed to bite in very quickly on the edges (I had to clean up an angle cut) as apposed to the orbital with 100 grit on the flat surface where I attached the edge molding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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