Metal Inlay attachment design

[Isaac]

This is a metal inlay, roughly 2" on a side and the a little more than 1/8" thick. It is a Chinese character for double happiness. You put the larger part on the bottom and the thin one on top and they span the gap of a jewelry box or something similar, making the character when the box is closed. 

I've got a simple oak box I'm making and plan to use this. I am looking for suggestions on attachment. I could simply use some tiny brass nails through those holes (boring them larger if needed). I could add some epoxy as insurance. I'm also considering routing out a square and setting it into the box, either flush or perhaps just inset partially. having it inset would protect it against getting knocked loose.

Also, any issues with epoxy bonding with finishes I should be aware of? I haven't decided a finish, but probably something natural like a wipe-on urethane from general finishes.  

Thanks!

 

[wtnhighlander]

Epoxy is fine with every finish I've ever used. My suggestion would be route a recess for the inlay, and set it with epoxy mixed with a coloring agent, maybe black. Not just glued to the surface, fill the recess. After the epoxy cures sand the whole inlay flush with the wood. Black, or some other color that contrasts with both the metal inlay and the wood background, provides a clear outline that avoids the look of a failed color match.

[Isaac]

I don't have experience using epoxy like this. How would I dye it? Any recommendation on the brand of epoxy? A slow curing one?

And finally, I would sand the wood, epoxy and metal all at once? How does the epoxy sand?

[Coop]

Isaac, I'm not sure I understand what you're doing here. Are you filling the grid with epoxy, then sanding the top, epoxy and grid smooth. I've seen this done many times on the floors of new schools.

[Isaac]

16 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

Isaac, I'm not sure I understand what you're doing here. Are you filling the grid with epoxy, then sanding the top, epoxy and grid smooth. I've seen this done many times on the floors of new schools.

I'm still considering all options. Originally when I mentioned epoxy I was thinking of it solely for attachment, not as a visible part of the design, but I am warming to that idea.

At this point all i know for sure is I want the metal on or inset into the box surface.

[krtwood]

West System for the epoxy.  It's not really going to matter which hardener.  Even the 205 "fast" hardener is slow compared to say a 5 min epoxy.

I've used mixol universal tints and transtint dyes with success.  A little goes a long way with either.

[JosephThomas]

Most people in the forum use west system epoxy. I haven't used it in this manner, but I have seen a number of youtube videos where people sand the epoxy surface along with the wood all at once, and it cleans up very well.

I will add a link if I can find one in the next 30 seconds.

Here you go, here's one from Matt Cremona..I would probably just follow his steps for adding dye (I have transtint dye as well, that's a good option, and they have lots of different "colors"):

 

[wtnhighlander]

Isaac, I made a similar metallic inlay for my nephew's Christmas gift last year. I cut a stylized version of his initials from aluminum, and recessed it into a box top. I actually used the recess as part of the design, extending a background 'ribbon' out from each side of the monogram. I masked off the surrounding area to simplify cleanup, filled the recess with epoxy, and inserted the inlay. I used steel mill scale to color the epoxy, it is deep black, with a bit of sparkle under bright lighting. Be sure to overfill the recess, or you will have to remove extra wood to get it all smooth. Also make sure the metal piece is solid, not plated, or you will sand through the plating.

Use a ROS, starting at 60 or 80 grit to level the surface, then work through the grits, just like normal for wood. The epoxy will smooth up nicely, although you may need to go up to 600 grit or higher, depending on how much shine you want from the metal and epoxy.