Stanley #7 and #6 help

[Mpride1911]

I've been raiding all of the antique stores and flea markets in the for northern NY area before they close for the winter, since I just found out I'm being transferred away from here at the same time that I realized just how many old tools are here.   Here's my questions:  One antique store has a large black plane, with Stanley blade, and "7" or "No 7" (it's been a while) cast into the bed.  The lever cap is blank, if I recall correctly.  Stickered at $25, I felt that it was just a recently produced plane, or generic that someone stuck a Stanley blade in because it looks brand new and never used.  But recent research leads me to believe that the "7" means that's it's an actual Stanley.   Blood and gore says they stopped producing them in the early 70s.   Am I wrong, and should I buy it?

 

The #6, I found yesterday in another antique store that's closing down, a Stanley Bailey No 6, with the Stanley in orange on the lever cap.  I didn't study the plane hard enough to find the location of patent dates and stuff.  The plane looks like it's never been used or was kept in a tool box it's entire life.  He said he'd do $50 on it, and I passed.  I feel like calling and offering $40 to see if he'd take it.  I know the 6 is an odd plane, and the 7 is more desirable, I just don't want to miss an opportunity for something.  Thoughts?

[Tpt life]

At $25 dollars you can likely break even if it is not what you thought it was. That said, if it is a Stanley at that price point, keep an eye out for missing parts and cracks in the casting. 

[Llama]

Without pics, it is hard to help identify something. I agree with C, unless it's complete garbage it's likely worth $25...

#6 isn't really odd, but it's really one of the most unnecessary planes there are. You need a #4, #5, #7, and some block plane action. #6 is kind of like no mans land unless you have what you need already. I have a #6C, and it just sits on the shelf. It's a nice thing, but like I said... Overlap. 

[Mpride1911]

I have a block olane, numerous No 4s, a low angle modern Stanley Sweetheart jack, a few run of the Mill Stanley no 5s, and a few wooden planes at the moment.   

 

Your analysis of the no 6, is basically what I meant by odd.  It's not necessary, I'm really only looking at it, to complete the set, if the price was right.  And it probably will just sit on a shelf.

[Llama]

5 minutes ago, Mpride1911 said:

complete the set

Then, by all means go and buy it. Check out eBay prices first.

For collecting, I'd want to stick to one era of planes though. My OCD is horrible. I'd have to have them all "match" or I'd be replacing them down the road. 

 

[Mpride1911]

I'm personally not looking for a specific era, however I don't want to garbage era either.  I know the eBay prices are slightly higher than what the guy asked for the 6.  But I think if he'll take 40, I'd be comfortable with that wouldn't regret it, if I found out something negative about it.  Similar to 20 or 25 for the 7.

[Eric.]

$40 is pizza night.  Go buy it.

Then spend a week fettling. LOL

[rodger.]

1 hour ago, Llama said:

Without pics, it is hard to help identify something. I agree with C, unless it's complete garbage it's likely worth $25...

#6 isn't really odd, but it's really one of the most unnecessary planes there are. You need a #4, #5, #7, and some block plane action. #6 is kind of like no mans land unless you have what you need already. I have a #6C, and it just sits on the shelf. It's a nice thing, but like I said... Overlap. 

+1.  It would be more beneficial, in my opinion, to have multiples of some other planes instead if a 6.  For example, if I had the choice between a 4,5,6,7 or 4,4,5,7 I would go with two 4s.

[Jim Harvey]

I have a six and a 606. I mainly use them on a shooting board, sometimes in flattening a board. It's nice to match the length of the plane to the size of the board you are working but as pointed out, a six (and an eight) would be the lowest priority to acquire. The two larger planes I use the most are a 5 1/4 and a 4 1/2. A five is probably the most versatile. Buy an after market blade and chipbreaker for it, grind that blade with a slight smoothing camber, grind the original blade to a more agressive curve to remove wood quickly.

[Mpride1911]

19 minutes ago, Pug said:

+1.  It would be more beneficial, in my opinion, to have multiples of some other planes instead if a 6.  For example, if I had the choice between a 4,5,6,7 or 4,4,5,7 I would go with two 4s.

I currently have 2 real good 4s, and like 4 or 5 more lesser grade ones.

[h3nry]

My #6 just sits on the shelf too - basically because I'm too lazy to keep the iron sharp. The #5 or #7 will usually do the job, and I always make sure that they are sharp.

[Tpt life]

The 6 is a holdover from the days of choosing the lightest plane long enough for a task. 5 is a little too short? Don't grab an 8, grab a six. In theory it makes more sense than in practice. I mean, how do I set my 6 up? Should it be tuned as jointer or jack? If you want a complete set, go for it. Most of us hand tool guys own more than we need or use commonly. I have a response to lighter planes...woodies. Do as much as you can with them and your specialty iron planes can come out for tricky tasks or final finishing. Just one thought stream of many. 

[Daniel Kuehl]

$25 and $50 are both very good prices for those planes...especially if you have one in very good original condition. 

[Mpride1911]

As to the number 4s.  I had two already and then bought a few more.  These pics are literally what I bought, just yesterday.   I'm really happy with the sweetheart no 4, the 112, and the first generation 113.

[Barron]

I have a 6 that I got along with a 5 and a block plane for about $25.  It is actually a nice plane, but I don't use it that often. My suggestion is that you pick the one in the best condition and pass on the other, although sometimes it's nice when one plane dulls to just grab the plane with the sharpest blade still on the shelf and finish up what you are doing before sharpening. Sharpening isn't hard, but it does break the rhythm.

[Dknapp34]

It's not a universal rule, but generally in old Stanley's I look for a raise ring around the front knob. It was an improvement Stanley made later on (give the knob more support). If I see it, I pass, because, generally, it means the plane is too new. They still made good planes after they started using the raised ring, but if I recall correctly, it wasn't that long afterwards that quality started to slip. I've stopped messing with old planes and now if I decide to get a new planet I just get a LV and save myself the aggravation of tuning up an old beater. That said, I have a decent number of old planes and they do work great if you invest the time in them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mpride1911]

I'm surprised it took this long for LV or LN to be suggested.  Unfortunately I don't have $270 plus S&H to spend on a plane.  Plus I'm fixing these up for a friend.  And spending 20 minutes fixing up a quality older plane is pretty satisfying for a plane that I'm getting a lot of use out of.

[Llama]

LN needs to come out with a compass plane. Or BCTW.

I'll buy it. Make it!! 

[Eric.]

26 minutes ago, Llama said:

LN needs to come out with a compass plane.

They so do.  I'd buy one fo shizzle.

[Tpt life]

I will sign the petition. 

[Mpride1911]

Wow, talk about my mind playing tricks on me.  This isnt how I remembered it at all.  I thought it was a lot newer.  This is way older than I remembered it.  At least I was right about the price.  The hole in sole obviously destroyed any collector value, but I'm still going to use the hell out of it.

 

EDIT: After I got home, I looked up the dating on these, and it appears to be a type 6.