Pbmaster11 Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 I have just purchased incra router fence, table top, and master lift. I am going to build a base for the table. I am wondering the the best height for the table is? 42 inches comes to mind. any other suggestions on the build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 I dunno, unless you're really tall, 42" seems a little high to me. Mine doubles as an outfeed table for my table saw, which is only about 36" high. How high is Norm's that everyone likes so much? -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 Mine is 34" and like Russ's doubles as an outfeed table for the tablesaw. The TS is a little higher at 35" but I put a couple of sheets of 1/2" ply on top of the router table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 Mine was 36" to double as an out feed table. I decided I wanted some mobility, so added 4" casters. I like the 40" height far better (i'm 6'1"). I also added a dedicated T-8 fixture over the table -- The increased light is also a very big improvement... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 I built mine at 34" but it was built to fit a certain space, so I could go no higher...otherwise I would have gone closer to 36-38 inches. It's fine, though. I'll be done with the cabinet in a couple days and I'll post pics when it's complete. I have basically the same setup you just purchased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 Mine is at 42 and lines up with my 8 ft drill press table( for line boring and hinge drilling) Nice not to have to bend over to adjust and use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbmaster11 Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 I built mine at 34" but it was built to fit a certain space, so I could go no higher...otherwise I would have gone closer to 36-38 inches. It's fine, though. I'll be done with the cabinet in a couple days and I'll post pics when it's complete. I have basically the same setup you just purchased. can't wait to see! if you could please give the dimensions of the router cavity as well as any other dimensions you can provide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Here ya go man. Just finished it up this evening... The basic inspiration came from the Bench Dog cabinets...the curves in the sides, inset drawers and doors, baltic birch construction, and I used their casters and mounting brackets. The rest was customized to suit my needs. The box for the router DC is hard to see because I mounted a fan in there, although I haven't convinced myself that it will do much of anything. But I figured what the hell, it'll move a little air, help blow the dust to the back of the cabinet where the DC port is, and it's plugged into the safety paddle switch, so it goes on and off with the router. What you can't really see is I built a ramp for the dust to slide down toward the port. Works great. I can get you dimensions if you want, but my table is a little bigger than the one you're getting, so they might not be very helpful. You're gonna love your new setup. It's awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbmaster11 Posted November 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Here ya go man. Just finished it up this evening... The basic inspiration came from the Bench Dog cabinets...the curves in the sides, inset drawers and doors, baltic birch construction, and I used their casters and mounting brackets. The rest was customized to suit my needs. The box for the router DC is hard to see because I mounted a fan in there, although I haven't convinced myself that it will do much of anything. But I figured what the hell, it'll move a little air, help blow the dust to the back of the cabinet where the DC port is, and it's plugged into the safety paddle switch, so it goes on and off with the router. What you can't really see is I built a ramp for the dust to slide down toward the port. Works great. I can get you dimensions if you want, but my table is a little bigger than the one you're getting, so they might not be very helpful. You're gonna love your new setup. It's awesome. Eric, heck of a table! question, why don't you have holes in the door for airflow? your router will get hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 That concern crossed my mind, but I decided to wait and see if it was necessary and just cut the holes later if they were needed. Obviously the cabinet is not air-tight, and a lot of flow comes through the gaps in the doors and even more through the hole in the lift plate. I've run it for more than fifteen minutes straight, and the router didn't get any hotter than if I had it out using it freehand. If I ever confront the need to run it for hours on end, maybe it would be a problem, but I'm assuming I'll never confront that need since I'm not a production shop and generally only use it for short periods. Another consideration is the DC. Since the DC is shared between the router box port and the fence port, I didn't want the box to be too wide open, otherwise the fence DC would suffer quite a bit. With the doors open, DC through the fence drops to nearly nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 DOGGONEIT ERIC!!!! I too have a 17"LS with the 24x36 Incra table and I've been going to Subway for lunch, designing my table because the DC has to be toward the end of the table. I've put hours in it.....I have it drawn just right....precise dimensions, where exactly to cut the dados, 35" high including castors....and NOWWWWW I LIKE YOUR TABLE BETTER!!! PbMaster Blaster....35" will still be the height EVEN THOUGH ERIC has tangled my mind up with a beautiful table. I try to keep things the same in case of needing another pair of hands. BTW, I'm....5'9" but I've seen some tables build taller (40 or 42") when they're not used for anything else. Again, the question we often hear...whatchagonna do with it? For me, it's smaller builds and shorter lengths so 35" works; but if you're having to HEAVE (Ernest T Bass) sizable panels, a shorter table seems better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 And I was proud of mine --- congrats.... Mine is organized 'length wise' with the router in the middle and a 36" fence running the length of the top. Have two rows of smaller drawers around a central router recess. I went length wise to support longer stock (I make a lot of moldings). If I ever re-do my cabinet, i'll keep yours in mind -- a lot of good ideas there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Tim, mine is just shy of 34" with the casters. I'm also 5'9" and it's a comfortable "enough" height. Had I not had space restrictions, I would have built it a few inches higher...I think 36" would be close to perfect. Plus if you go any higher I think it would start looking disproportionately tall and goofy, especially with the slightly smaller tables you and PB have...if you're worried about appearance on a shop project like this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Just finished my router table last week. It is very much like Eric's table with a few more but smaller drawers. The upper left drawer has 1/4" drive bits, the second holds 1/2" bits, the third has my Colt router and accessories and the lower two are empty for now but will find a use soon I'm sure. The upper right drawer is for feather boards, measuring devices and other accessories for the table router, the second holds two older P C routers and the lower has my Hitachi router and plunge base in it. I made sure that the overall height was 34" so that I can slide it under the wing of my table saw for storage if I move the fence to the rear of the table. It might be a bit short for a lot of people but, it works just fine for me. Rog P.S. I like the holes in the drawers so that there are no knobs to catch clothes on. And if I had seen the power switch that is now on sale from Rockler I would have one of those too. Would have been less wiring and not much more cost than the way I did it with two boxes, a plug and switch as separate items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbmaster11 Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 here is what i have sketched up... fronts are obviously not on or doors for the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbmaster11 Posted November 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 I am thinking of making the router cubby smaller and increase drawer sizes and quantity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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