Hide Glue Question


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I don't bother using hot hide anymore but now use Titebond hide glue. It's not the same as hot hide as it works at room temperature. I find it flows better when warmed in some warm to hot water. Working time is around 10 to 15 minutes and can be upto 30 minutes. If you only have a small job to do only buy the 4 oz bottle as once opened shelf life is only about 4 weeks.

It works the same as hot hide being reversible with heat (steam or hot air) and is great for musical instruments that may require disassembly in the future. Also it doesn't smell so you can use it without frightening the neighbours.

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Hot hide glued surfaces need to be assembled quickly. Like as soon as the glue is applied. Don't take your time and try to be neat. Just slop it ion as quickly as you can and assemble quickly. Don't worry about the mess. It cleans up easily. The higher the gram strength, the less working time you have before it starts to gel. You can increase the time you have slightly by warming your parts before applying the glue. A heat gun works, or setting the parts on a radiator, or near the fireplace or wood stove. Apply the glue thick too. The thinner the coat, the faster it will cool. If you're the type if person who meticulously and neatly applies thin coats of glue and takes their time assembling, you might be a little frustrated with hot hide. If you want minutes of open time, you might be frustrated with hot hide. Liquid hide works more like modern glues. It has a good 10 minutes or so of open time. Hot hide however is designed for quick, clampless assemblies. Apply quickly, assemble quickly, hold in place for a minute or two and let it be. Move on to the next one. After about 15 minutes, the big blobs and drips will turn rubbery and can be peeled right off.

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==>Does anyone here use hot hide glue?

Yes --- mostly for Chippendale bracket feet, miter frames, etc...

 

==>Hot hide glued surfaces need to be assembled quickly

Exactly.. Bob's spot-on.

 

I use it precisely for the reasons Bob outlines -- specifically, for mitered joints where I want fast no-clamp glue-ups... Just slop it on and it sticks... Think of HHG as stinky, sticky and warm CA glue --- but a CA glue that cleans-up easily...

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Thanks for your responses.  This project is a bit of an experiment and design is not all worked out yet.  I do want to use it for mitered joints where I'm not sure how to clamp.  Each piece will be about 20' long - I'm guessing from what you have said is I would have a minute or so to apply the glue and put the pieces together if the wood is warned whit a heat gun.  

 

As for the Titebond hide glue sounds like I probably would not need to clamp but would need to hold the pieces in position for five minutes plus.  Think I'll go with the hot glue, partially because I like trying new things. 

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as the others..  i use it when i don't mind a short open time and often when i want to start banging on the assembly relatively quickly.  ime, it doesn't need to sit in clamps as long as liquid hide glue which i use for everything else.

 

i seem to be one of the few that doesn't think it stinks.  rather like the smell tbh..

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The smell of hot hide really isn't bad or strong, unless it's a poor quality glue. It's a distinct smell, but it's really not offensive. The dogs love it. They come running every time I use it. It's basically a less refined version of Knox gelatin, which you can find in just about every grocery store.

Liquid hide glue, which Old Brown is, typically has a shelf life of a year or two from when it's made. When you open it doesn't matter as the containers are not sterilized and vacuum sealed. The glue basically spoils like any other perrishable would. When stuff starts growing, it breaks down the proteins making the glue useless. I've used liquid up to 6 months after its expiry for non stress applications as long as it doesn't smell really bad and dries well. I toss it if it's more than 6 months past expiry. The expiry should be printed on the bottle.

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