DavidC Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 What' is the heaviest thing you've hung from a French cleat? I'm getting ready to rid my shop of free standing shelves and get all that stuff off the floor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pghmyn Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 I'd say it all depends on allowable shear and normal stress limit of the fasteners. The force from the french cleat system is down and away from the wall. Using some nice heavy bolts, I'm sure a french cleat can hold as much as you can throw at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post dwacker Posted February 26, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Look at it this way a good kitchen cabinet is rated to 600lbs and they are just hung with screws so your french cleats should be able to hold a whole heard of fat girls. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer_J Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Divetta Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Look at it this way a good kitchen cabinet is rated to 600lbs and they are just hung with screws so your french cleats should be able to hold a whole heard of fat girls. What a beautiful picture .…… and I also agree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick LoDico Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 A few well placed screws into studs and you shouldn't need to worry about it. Be more concerned with how well the matching piece of cleat is attached to your shelf/bookcase etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I like to use Baltic birch for heavy load French cleats. Maybe 4" to 6" wide and get 2 screws in each and every stud. I know I have hung 30" deep desktops on cleat hung base cabinets before and had no qualms about standing on the desk to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 A good place to start is to avoid using sheetrock screws, they are not intended to be the go-to fastener, but everybody seems to use them for everything. Im sure some of you have seen wall cabinets collapse due to sheetrock screws shearing. If you want to hold a ton of weight check out ledger-locks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I use 2 1/2" x #7 flat head screws that have a triangular head, not the bugle head that comes on sheet rock screws. Most of my screws are either square drive or combo ( square and Phillips ) . I locate the studs accurately and screw into the dead center of each one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I end up using these things, sold in Lowes, for all sorts of things. I built a roof that cantilevered out six feet off one side of a boat house/dock to cover some Jetskiis on lifts. We had 2x12x16s screwed to the boathouse roof posts with them, and then another 2x8 screwed to the 2x12, so I was standing on a walk-board that was cantilevered out 9 feet over the water. I'm a good swimmer, so I didn't worry about falling in, but those screws had a lot of torque on them. Last week, we stiffened up the upper end of a handrail that had been loose for about a hundred years. I clamped a 4-1/2 inch grinder to the bench, chucked one of these long screws in a drill, and turned the head down so it would go in a 1/2" hole, so it wouldn't be such a big one to plug. It worked great. They're T30 TORX drive, and an 18v impact driver will run them right in without a lead hole. I also use them to pull up twisted ends on some of our horse pasture fencing when a board twists. I've never seen one broken, but I don't know what their load limit is. I'm pretty sure one of these in each stud would hold whatever a cabinet will hold. http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=155913-37672-47870&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3342802&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 http://www.grkfasteners.com/index.php/en/products/rss Tom, your link pulls a 404 File Not Found but your description sounds like these GRK which are my go to fasteners. ⬇️⬇️⬇️ must be my mobile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 The link works for me: "The Hillman Group Construction Lag Screws" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Lowes has them in a bunch of different lengths, sold individually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryside Workshop Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I end up using these things, sold in Lowes, for all sorts of things. I built a roof that cantilevered out six feet off one side of a boat house/dock to cover some Jetskiis on lifts. We had 2x12x16s screwed to the boathouse roof posts with them, and then another 2x8 screwed to the 2x12, so I was standing on a walk-board that was cantilevered out 9 feet over the water. I'm a good swimmer, so I didn't worry about falling in, but those screws had a lot of torque on them. Last week, we stiffened up the upper end of a handrail that had been loose for about a hundred years. I clamped a 4-1/2 inch grinder to the bench, chucked one of these long screws in a drill, and turned the head down so it would go in a 1/2" hole, so it wouldn't be such a big one to plug. It worked great. They're T30 TORX drive, and an 18v impact driver will run them right in without a lead hole. I also use them to pull up twisted ends on some of our horse pasture fencing when a board twists. I've never seen one broken, but I don't know what their load limit is. I'm pretty sure one of these in each stud would hold whatever a cabinet will hold. http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=155913-37672-47870&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3342802&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 I might have to pick some of those up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Be sure to get a T30 driver bit too. They should have them close to where those screws are. I like the ones that snap in the impact driver, rather than the little loose ones to go in an adaptor, and have a high probability of getting lost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryside Workshop Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Be sure to get a T30 driver bit too. They should have them close to where those screws are. I like the ones that snap in the impact driver, rather than the little loose ones to go in an adaptor, and have a high probability of getting lost. Will do. They sell them individually? I saw they are around $1.37 each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer_J Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I end up using these things, sold in Lowes, for all sorts of things. I built a roof that cantilevered out six feet off one side of a boat house/dock to cover some Jetskiis on lifts. We had 2x12x16s screwed to the boathouse roof posts with them, and then another 2x8 screwed to the 2x12, so I was standing on a walk-board that was cantilevered out 9 feet over the water. I'm a good swimmer, so I didn't worry about falling in, but those screws had a lot of torque on them. Last week, we stiffened up the upper end of a handrail that had been loose for about a hundred years. I clamped a 4-1/2 inch grinder to the bench, chucked one of these long screws in a drill, and turned the head down so it would go in a 1/2" hole, so it wouldn't be such a big one to plug. It worked great. They're T30 TORX drive, and an 18v impact driver will run them right in without a lead hole. I also use them to pull up twisted ends on some of our horse pasture fencing when a board twists. I've never seen one broken, but I don't know what their load limit is. I'm pretty sure one of these in each stud would hold whatever a cabinet will hold. http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=155913-37672-47870&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3342802&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 i use those a lot for miscellaneous odds and ends. ^ i use these for any serious structural situations.. they are rated for 965lbs shear strength and 1,215lbs tensile strength here we used them to attach two sets of 1/2" thick 4"x6" angle iron to old oak rafters , makita 18v impact no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Will do. They sell them individually? I saw they are around $1.37 each. My Lowes sells them for 80 cents ! Must be a regional thing unless my being a pro gets me a discount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryside Workshop Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 My Lowes sells them for 80 cents ! Must be a regional thing unless my being a pro gets me a discount? How do they know your a pro? Do you have some special card or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Sign up at the pro desk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryside Workshop Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 What kind of proof did you have to provide? Do I need to provide my business license or something ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 You need a license but lowes does not give pro discounts unless you buy certain items in bulk. The only advantage is faster no tax check out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 We have a lar account at lowes, no matter what we buy we get 5% off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 We have a lar account at lowes, no matter what we buy we get 5% off. Lowes is just like HD you only get a discount with their credit card. I have one of each and a commercial sign up at both. 9 time out of ten HD or Lowes will be three times more expensive than any real commercial type resale place. 5% doesn't even come close to what you pay in the real commercial market if you have the elegibility. Even their consumer credit card offers the 5% discount so no real pro discount what so ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 My grandpas handyman steals everything from lowes and home depot. They get the best discounts. They walked out once with 8 sheets of ply and tiles, even had a worker help them load it onto the truck. Smh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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