ramonekalsaw

DMT plate vs Norton (non)Flattening Stone

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Hello … I’m new to sharpening. I recently bought the Norton Combo Stone Kit – 220/1k + 4k/8k stones ... which includes … many would say … the (non) Flattening stone. I’ve read that many advise replacing the Norton flattener with the DMT course stone. But before I do that … and before I start using the stones … what do you think about using the 220 grit for flattening?

Thinking to myself … but what about when I need to grind ? ... I really wouldn’t want to grind on my flattening stone … would I?

Am I thinking about this correctly : /

Thanks for your insights …

Ramone

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Hey Ramone,

 

First off, as you have read, don't trust the flattening stone.  In fact, I have seen enough non-flat-flattening stones returned from unhappy customers to construct a non-flat house.  ;)

 

I use an Extra Course DMT to flatten my 1000 grit stone and then rub them together from there.  1000 to 4000.   4000 to 8000, etc.  This way I always have a reliable flat reference.

 

As far as grinding goes, you want to take your tool down as fast as possible without damaging the steel, obviously.  IMO there is no substitute for a slow speed grinder with good quality wheels.  The challenge with using the 220 grit stone is keeping it flat and the extra working time rubbing the tool on the stone.  Meaning a grinder is faster.  But this is a viable strategy.

 

miw!

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Grind on one side, save the other for flattening. Of course all the other views submitted are quite valid. Ultimately a DMT is the way to go, but reality says use what you have in the mean time.

But if the combo set is different grits on either side this isn't going to work.

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To flatten my stones I just use some good quality wet dry sandpaper and a granite block that I got from woodcraft (on sale I think it was like $25 or so). Works great and the paper last a long time I just use a different sheet for every "grit" stone I have to keep from "grit" contamination. A quick flattening after every sharpening and I am good to go.

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There’s a better option than DMT for diamond plates, either for waterstone flattening or coarse work on a tool. It’s the Atoma 400 grit diamond plate. It also works better than the DMT for quick removal of metal from an edge tool for fixing a nick or initial set up of a plane blade or chisel.

 

More info here: http://giantcypress.net/post/41860013521/atoma-bomb

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I trusted Wilbur on the Atoma recommendation (amongst many) a while back and have been very happy I did.  Haven't had to change the 'paper' yet but it's good to know I can.

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I was wondering this too. Atleast how effective a dmt coarse stone would flatten a waterstone. Honestly, I bought the coarse stone because I am really on the fence about keeping any water stones. I figured I'd buy the dmt to flatten the combo stone I have, and if I liked the dmt, I'd get a few more. Winner winner :)

I started with flattening the back if an old chisel, great fast results. Couldn't be happier with the speed.

Anyway, I just opened the dmt box from amazon with my coarse stone inside. Took my waterstone out of the water bath, and drew some lines on it in a grid pattern. I held the waterstone in my hand and gently moved the stone back and forth showing a an area of dishing on the waterstone. I continued until all marks were gone, and drew another grid pattern and took the stone to the dmt to replicate my results and with a few strokes the lines were gone. Flat at last!

Now, I'm not here trying to say the dmt stone I bought is as good as the dmt lapping plate, or the one Wilbur is recommending. I am certain those stones are better. In which way? Well, the dmt reps state that all of the continuous diamond stones are flat, and go on to say that the lapping plate is flat and also has a special coating that makes it last longer than the ones not marked for lapping.

I'm sure the lapping stones are flatter or better, so no argument from me on that. My purpose here wasn't to say one is better than the other or not. Simply I now have a flat water stone and I'm happy.

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Not sure I understand. Did you use the DMT for both attempts, or did you remove the first set of lines with something else?

Sent from my KFTHWI using Tapatalk HD

Used the same dmt coarse stone both times. The reason I basically flattened it twice was to verify to myself that the water stone was in fact flat. I wanted to eliminate any issues that would have been otherwise overlooked if the dmt wasn't flat. Because after flattening with the dmt, the second grid line was added to show the consistent removal of waterstone material. If I was getting an inconsistent pattern the second time, then any possible issues with the dmt would have been very clear.

Hope this makes sense.

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I have used the Norton flattening stone for years with good results-must be the exception. That said, 220 paper on a flat surface (granite, glass, mdf, table saw wing) will get them flat.

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