Edge banding + stain disaster


Recommended Posts

So I'm building a cabinet for my sister.  I had never done edge banding before.  I almost never stain projects.  Clearly combining the two is a recipe for success, right?

 

Everything was looking good when I applied the stain (GF oil based).  Gave it 48 hours to dry before going to the first coat of Arm-R-Seal.  Most of the stain wiped off from the edge banding and some of the areas on the plywood around it.

 

post-13721-0-67134200-1405020848_thumb.jpost-13721-0-62094400-1405020847_thumb.j

 

I'm going to assume that the glue from the edge banding got spread around when I used the ROS and that prevented the stain from drying properly?  I've only ever seen glue prevent the stain from taking in the first place not make it come off later so this is a new one.  How do I know I've fixed it without going through this cycle again since there wasn't a hint of a problem when the stain went on?  Should I wipe it down with a solvent before staining?  Use a WB finish?  I have no idea what to do.  I'm more worried about it happening again on the outside corners than the front since I can't think of any way to deal with that besides the ROS and while hopefully I can get away with sanding it again this time odds are I go through the veneer if it happens again.

 

I had prestained the interior since this is a 6 foot long cabinet with 10 compartments and I think I'm still okay on the interior.  Well, I would burn the thing before I sanded down the interior anyway.

 

Meh...

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Slow, deep breaths.  This, too shall pass.

 

I'm not sure how an ROS could "spread" glue.  Were you sanding before the glue had cured?

Oil-based stains can certainly do strange things under an oil-based top coat, even when it seems that they've been drying forever.  A barrier coat of shellac is always a good idea to prevent this.

 

As for saving this piece, I see some faux finishing in your future.  Sharpie markers, artist brushes, etc.  Do the best you can.  Trying to get down to bare wood to re-stain would cause more problems than it would solve, IMO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's the iron on style edge banding so there's no curing of the glue.  I had all of the excess off that I could see but it's the only explanation I can come up with.  I've never had much luck applying shellac over large areas.  I don't think sanding down the faces of the edge banding by hand would be too hard.  I guess I could just hit it with every solvent I've got and hope for the best.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a new one to me. Ive ironed on a few hundred feet of this stuff in my days so far, and haven't encountered this problem yet. In my experience, the squeeze out from the banding dried in a clump right on the corner of the boards, never spreading as far back as your stain line shows. Please let us know if you find resolution in this without having to do some serious rehabbing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I sanded down one side and wiped it down with mineral spirits and alcohol and then stained it.  The edge banding didn't get as dark as it did the first time.  We'll see what happens in a couple days.  I'm thinking maybe a thinned gel stain as a toner to even things out after that if it comes out okay?

 

They didn't want it painted but it may come to that :)

 

I'm with DBP. used iron edge banding with no problems staining it. Maybe you got some bad banding. From now on I think I'll do some tests on scrap before applying on a project. Sorry, I don't have any suggestions. Really liked your YT video on the Lego table though, good job :D

 

Thanks :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Test side came out okay, other than one little spot in the corner that I must have missed wiping down.  I had dug up the sanding disk that was on the ROS the first time around and mineral spirits seemed to work on the residue that was on it, though it came off pretty easily without anything too so it was hard to tell.

 

Of course now I don't have enough stain left to redo the whole top.  Much easier problem to solve :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 years later...
On 8/8/2023 at 9:40 AM, woodywoodpecker said:

Given it's a decade later I don't know what will come of this reply? Could the iron on banding have heated up sap in the wood literally pushing the stain out? 

No. 
 

As go far as the original post.

With self adhesive iron tape… it’s very common to overheat and press most of tye glue out. It General takes a lot of practice to ge5 good at it without it coming off the next day or months town the line.

I personally won’t use self iron on and will buy contact adhesive for a guaranteed stick. 
 

As go far as an edge banding machine… There’s too many working parts to explain here..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 76 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    31.2k
    Total Topics
    422.3k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    23,780
    Total Members
    3,644
    Most Online
    AshTree
    Newest Member
    AshTree
    Joined