rogjoe Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Has any one out there flattened a glued up panel with steam? I read where a guy did this with wet towels and an iron, then added weights. I glued up a 54x54 oak panel for a table top, did everything in my power to keep it flat while drying, but after I took the clamps off the outside edges were 1/4 higher than the center. If I use a router sled I would end up taking off more wood than I would like. Right now it's 1 1/4 thick. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. The boards I used were from 6" to 8" and I flipped the boards according tho the growth rings (alternating). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 That's what breadboard ends are for. You can steam it 'til you're blue in the face, but it's gonna go back to the position it wants to be in without some kind of mechanical resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry_in_SD Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Or if no breadboard ends, install batons underneath to help keep it flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Mike offers a great suggestion that's worked for me in the past.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogjoe Posted November 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Thanks everyone. I think I'll try Mikes remedy. I had the boards jointed for me at a woodworking shop and I assumed the edges were square. They were a little much for me to handle. I'll triple check next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Thanks everyone. I think I'll try Mikes remedy. I had the boards jointed for me at a woodworking shop and I assumed the edges were square. They were a little much for me to handle. I'll triple check next time. And when you are done checking, check one more time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post rodger. Posted November 16, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 I flipped the boards according tho the growth rings (alternating). The first wood working instructor I had (college cabinet making) told me that this should be done. For years I followed this procedure, often at the expense of putting a nice face "down". After doing woodwork for a while, I read an article by Christian Becksvoort that said this was really a myth. So I stopped doing this, and always put the best grain match and face up, ignoring the rings. I have never had an issue. Of course, make sure you are adding breadboard ends or support underneath a large panel to ensure that it stays flat. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Did the shop happen to mark the faces. First never trust a jointer or saw cut for wide panels. Flip the faces so that even if the fence or blade is off a hair you still have a flat panel. With panels this wide in your home shop without a panel flattener its so much easier to glue up in halves or thirds then do the final glue up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Did the shop happen to mark the faces. First never trust a jointer or saw cut for wide panels. Flip the faces so that even if the fence or blade is off a hair you still have a flat panel. With panels this wide in your home shop without a panel flattener its so much easier to glue up in halves or thirds then do the final glue up. Good advice here. I always do a large panel in stages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 In the glue up process, the wider the panel the more need for cauls. and always use a square to make sure your boards meet each other properly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 As i work wood more and more, I have realized that my patience level has inceased at least tenfold. Eventually I came to realize that several weeks (or more) is not an unrealistic time frame in which to complete a project. I used to try and ram in as many operations as I could, but now I "take it slow". I try and focus on the quality of every piece, as opposed to trying to meet my self imposed deadline. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Weeks? You finish a project in just WEEKS?!? My projects are timed with a calandar and planned according the the farmer's almanac... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPCV_Woodworker Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 If you're using cauls, make sure they're either coated in packing tape, or really well shielded with wax paper. Nothing more horrible than finding out you put the wrong side down and the squeeze-out has glued your caul to your panel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 You should not need cauls for any longer than it takes to clamp the boards. Once clamped the cauls should not be doing anything. If the panel cups when the cauls are removed you have joinery issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 You can also use pin nails or short brads. Hold off your gun and shoot into the edge clip off at about 1/16 or so you don't need much. Glue up your boards and align. When you squeeze the boards together the pins will hold them and keep them from slipping. This works well with long panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefmagnus@grics.net Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 I put some poly into a vacuum bags and sealed them around my cauls. The bag is bonded to the caul and glue pops right off the bag. Had to trim bag from ends because the bag slipped around on clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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