Tear out on table top


Warren Hein

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Patching is a good bet if you only have one or two patches and access to spray gear*… Most smoothing plane tearout that I get is on the order of 1/32 to 3/32 with most less than 1/16… If the tabletop is indeed flat and tearout on the order of 1/16, then a widebelt may not be a bad choice – but the key is the flatness of the tabletop… A couple of light passes through an oscillating widebelt could solve your problem for $20 + gas money… Most comercial shops will be fine with tops out to 37”, many out to 42”… Gear beyond that gets pricy... Some will accommodate tops over 42" with a stroke sander -- and that's another very good option -- maybe even better…

 

 

 

*This is Sparta! Sorry, got carried away… I meant: This is Cherry!  With wipe-on/off finishes, the differential absorption of patch material (even if from the same board) will standout… You can blend-in a few patches, but after a while, it’ll be a losing battle…

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Lesson learned here I think is 

 

A ) Sharp Blade

B ) Shallow Shavings...You should be getting fluff not strips of wood out of the mouth of the plane.

C ) Test the cut of your plane on the bottom or scrap of the same species/board, before going to town. 

 

Ya done good fixing it. Looks way better.

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  • 1 month later...

It's all done. Finished the top with about 10 thinned down coats of General Finishes poly, and polished with paste wax. The base received fewer coats but I'm overall happy with the results. I let the top sit for over a week before bringing it in and I'll see how it lasts for durability.

b69e8a8b7341455009f2fcff5365372f.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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