Multi-purpose shop table?


Keith H

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I am planning my new woodworking shop (1 stall of garage really) and am thinking about a multi-purpose table.  I have watched the Youtube by Steve Johnson (Down to Earth) and Marc and am really leaning toward a torsion box surface but my question is.... 

 

In the outfeed function, is it necessary to have table so high as to require outfeed slots for the miter bars or can the table top be 3/8"-7/16" shy of the top of the TS and still function safely.  This allowing for a work surface that is not slotted.

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I would make it flush with the TS top.  If you make it lower, when ripping longer pieces they may have a tendency to tip up when they get past the TS surface and cause a dangerous situation near the end of your cut.

 

As far as using the outfeed table in conjunction with accessories in the miter slot...if the table is stationary, sometimes you have no choice.  One example is my crosscut sled.  Its deep enough that the runners will hit my outfeed table if I dont move it.  Without slots cut in there, I'd have to move the outfeed table every time I want to use the sled; which would be a major PITA.

 

You may be ok if your outfeed table isn't butted right up against the TS, if you have a foot or two of space in between.

 

On mine, I didn't worry too much about routing the slots in the outfeed table to perfectly fit the miter slots.  Once you are that far past the cutting area, a tight fit on the runners isn't necessary.  I just routed enough clearance for my miter gauge and whatnot to pass into the outfeed table surface.

Just my .02

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I was thinking more of a more easily moved than a permanent fixture.  Like say tilt up out feed tables.

 

My outfeed table folds down on the back of the saw.  There is a piece about 10" deep that is permanently attached to the back of the TS and then the bulk of the table hinges down from there.

 

I'm generally too lazy to fold the larger portion of the outfeed table down every time I need to use my miter gauge or x-cut sled, so I routed slots into it to provide clearance for the runners.  Its not necessary, but it keeps me from having to drop the table very often.  It is necessary to put the slots in the shallower portion that doesn't fold down.

 

The slots dont really function to guide the runners at all, they're only for clearance.

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I would make it flush with the TS top.  If you make it lower, when ripping longer pieces they may have a tendency to tip up when they get past the TS surface and cause a dangerous situation near the end of your cut.

 

As far as using the outfeed table in conjunction with accessories in the miter slot...if the table is stationary, sometimes you have no choice.  One example is my crosscut sled.  Its deep enough that the runners will hit my outfeed table if I dont move it.  Without slots cut in there, I'd have to move the outfeed table every time I want to use the sled; which would be a major PITA.

 

You may be ok if your outfeed table isn't butted right up against the TS, if you have a foot or two of space in between.

 

On mine, I didn't worry too much about routing the slots in the outfeed table to perfectly fit the miter slots.  Once you are that far past the cutting area, a tight fit on the runners isn't necessary.  I just routed enough clearance for my miter gauge and whatnot to pass into the outfeed table surface.

Just my .02

I would say flush is preferred, but a max of maybe 0.125" lower would be a good alternative if flush cannot be achieved. If the work piece is to the point where it is heavy enough to tip, it most likely would have sagged that 0.125" already, giving it full support again. Again, flush is highly ideal, but don't beat yourself up if you can't get it. Especially if this table is not permanently bolted to the saw.

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Mine is about 1 or 2mm lower than the tablesaw. You need it as close to level with the table saw but without the possibility of anything you rip fouling on the outfeed table. The reason you don't want anything you cut tipping down as it is still passing the blade is that it will lift the item off the saw table surface. If you are using a zero insert plate for sheet goods you will get a heap of tear out. My outfeed is fixed in permanently because I am fortunate enough to have the space. Further to that my mitre guide extensions are dead in line and the same dimensions as the ones in the table saw cast iron top. You can check mine out here if you want to.

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I recommend Dave's video(s). This one shows a lot about the sled but a host of other things useful for the shop  Many of us were with him as he built his new shop and I can honestly say, he thinks through each step as well as anyone I've ever seen.  Your shop Dave is an inspiration!

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Keith - I also wanted to build a multi-purpose table and because wanted to use it for assembly I didn't really want the slots in it.  My table is 1/32 lower then the table and when I am doing anything with the miter I just move the table away some.  I didn't do a torsion box but there is cross member support in side but I built it so I had tool space under the top instead of tools on top when I am working. Here is a link to mine.

 

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One thing I've been considering is mixing a basic table with a downdraft sanding table.  Even just the smaller squares that get set on top of the table/bench would work a lot right now... 

 

Lot of new neighbors, and kids, that don't appreciate some of the dust.  (Doesn't seem to bother the geese, though.  Unfortunately.)

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