erebus Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 If you haven't been the geekchic website has some very pretty tables with big pricetags. http://geekchichq.com/#category-furniture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted September 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Hey guys. For those who don't know, we just released a preliminary sketch of the table on the Guild website. So download it and have fun. But keep in mind, it truly is preliminary. In fact, we are in the process of making a few major changes to specifically address concerns raised in this post and email. So, keep the ideas rolling. You just might find your idea incorporated into the core design. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 (edited) I saw a card table recently that had all 4 sides curved gently inwards so when sat at it each player was closer to the centre of the table. It was all enveloping and looked very organic. I didn't get chance to take a picture but the top was also inlayed. Edited September 13, 2015 by TerryMcK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Has anyone heard if there is still a live intro tonight? I saw that Marc's daughter just arrived so I wasn't sure if this is still on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted September 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2015 It's on @Chris H. Starts in about 5 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross52 Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Hello, currently the only customization I have planned is to increase the width to accommodate average fat american size. Our current table is square at 54" which works well for two people per side so 54-56" is what i'm aiming for. As Marc has pointed out that raises a bunch of issues since the bottom plywood panel is maxed out at 48". My initial idea is to add in strips of maple probably biscuit joined to push out the width. I've attached a sketchup. I'm fairly unskilled, so i have a lot of fears. Mainly that I won't be able to do a proper edge to edge glue up, after which at some point the table collapse in multiple points and goes through the floor. The bottom supports that are in the plans give me a little bit of reassurance, but I'd like to know if this is a completely wrong headed way to go about things?Thanks for reading! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 @Ross52: Don't forget, plywood is 48" wide, but 96" long. Especially if you are going to veneer, but even if you aren't, you can cut your 54"-56" Plywood strips out of solid ply. I would recommend against laminating plywood using biscuits, especially on a table. The torque those seams will experience from just a person push off to stand up, or leaning in on is pretty substantial. If you have kids, you can bet one will be sitting or standing on the table at some point. You will use more plywood if you cut length wise, but your structural integrity would be much greater because of the cross grain action within the ply itself. If you do choose to laminate, I would strongly suggest some kind of bracing structure running the width of the table, between your top and the next surface of the table to spread any exceptional forces that may incur back out to the perimeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CubsFan Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Any rough ETA on when the first video will come out? I need to make sure to join again before then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Technically the first video is already out. The virtual project tour happened on Friday. Assuming I don't have any major family setbacks with the new baby, we'll start with our regular schedule of a video every Friday from here on out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CubsFan Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Well, I'm already a little behind then I'll be joining up soon!Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 The beginning of a project is always a bit of a slow burn. First two weeks are introduction and prep. We don't get into the deep stuff until week three. Even then, I always recommend people lag behind for the sake of corrections and alterations to the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CubsFan Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Oh, don't worry about me lagging behind. I have a half complete Chest of Drawers in my shop, so I'll be way behind for awhile I just like to watch the videos as they come out. I find them fun and interesting (and, frankly, a great value) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilNuff Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 I am still undecided on the inset top. With the inserts being plywood there shouldn't be movement but the rails are wood, shouldn't they experience movement which could potentially cause gaps or tightness for the inserts? What do y'all think about a full "real" table top of wood that sits on top of the rails and is attached/removed somehow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross52 Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 @EvilNuff The aprons grain orientation means the expansion will be vertical which won't interfere with the inserts. The top rails are only 3 inch wide and allow for expansion to the open air outside of the table as well. At least thats how I see it. I've nailed a box together once so i know what i'm talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted September 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 I wouldn't worry about expansion much. As Ross said, some of the expansion is directed outward and realistically, there won't be much expansion and contraction over a 4" span of wood. The inserts won't be a piston fit anyway as that would make them difficult to remove.The full solid top is definitely an option that some would be interested in. The key is making it removable and securable (is that a word?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 (edited) Here is a thought for detachable legs. A thick dowel and a second smaller dowel to key the joint and ensure is doesn't twist. A squared floating tenon would work better without the need for a key. Squared tenon would be a bit harder, but a better stronger option. The dowels are fast and easy. Using a contrasting wood on the joint to help camouflage the seam. Edited September 25, 2015 by Chris H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 If I were going that route I'd leave out the key and make it a wedged tenon. That way I can tap in the wedge to keep the joint nice and tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobInAustin Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 Here is a thought for detachable legs. A thick dowel and a second smaller dowel to key the joint and ensure is doesn't twist. A squared floating tenon would work better without the need for a key. Squared tenon would be a bit harder, but a better stronger option. The dowels are fast and easy. Using a contrasting wood on the joint to help camouflage the seam. I was thinking about making the top of legs side into pockets (giant square tenons) and the would be screwed in using standard 45 degree table leg hardware. The apron joinery would be to the pockets. For me, I think I need to come up with a way of doing detachable legs. I'd hate to not be able to move it into another house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 If I were going that route I'd leave out the key and make it a wedged tenon. That way I can tap in the wedge to keep the joint nice and tight. How would you execute a wedge tenon? I was thinking it would interfere with perpendicular tenon in each leg, as well as be blocked from access because the aprons are tight to the frame around the top. I've only ever seen a wedged tenon on a through tenon on things like a trestle table. Is there another way I am not thinking of? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilNuff Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 ...The full solid top is definitely an option that some would be interested in. The key is making it removable and securable (is that a word?).I was thinking about essentially screwing batons on the underside so that it rested inside the gaming area. The weight should keep it in place I would think. I don't know how to keep wood movement of the top from shifting the batons such that the fit was too tight or too loose, however? Also a full covered top would let you cut cup holders directly into the aprons if you wanted as the top would cover those when not gaming. If I can figure a way to do this reasonably I will probably go the full top route as it will look better for dining table and be just as good for gaming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 I'd keep the legs as a single piece, make a short t-slot pointing out to the inside corner of each leg then epoxy a bolt inside that slot, so you can pull it from a bracket attached to the aprons. Leg hardware, that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CubsFan Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 I'm not sure if this was covered anywhere before (and this might be putting the cart before the horse), but is there any plan to look at a matching set of chairs for this table? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted September 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 Well, there isn't a plan yet. That said, after this is built I will indeed have a mismatched set of chairs to go with my new table. So it isn't out of the question. And depending on how things go this Winter, the accompanying chairs could very well end up on the free site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedfmcm Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 A Wood Whisperer chair build would be awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CubsFan Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 I would be in for the chair build for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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