My table is FINISHED!......technically


Ethan

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That is a nice looking table.. What is the finished that you used? It looks like high gloss poly.. What did you do to join the table in that shape? Do you have a picture of the whole base? I am curious to see how that thing is put together..

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That is a nice looking table.. What is the finished that you used? It looks like high gloss poly.. What did you do to join the table in that shape? Do you have a picture of the whole base? I am curious to see how that thing is put together..

Finish is Behlen's Rock Hard. To join the table just dado'ed the middle of the boards out half thickness and glued them together cross ways. The base was done the same way.

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Out of curiosity, why did you opt to split the more figured board instead of the one that is more uniform? Cool design, by the way.

I thought long and hard about which side to show. If there was a way to show both I would have done it, but that board had a cup in it so it got the underside. If you want figure I'll put up pics of the other planks.

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I thought long and hard about which side to show. If there was a way to show both I would have done it, but that board had a cup in it so it got the underside. If you want figure I'll put up pics of the other planks.

Actually, the reason I asked goes toward balance. It may just be the photo, but the leg, or part of the table that is the closest to us seems heavy in relation the other side. Is it an optical illusion? While I don't believe balance is critical is all pieces, I'm drawn to it in symmetrical pieces.

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Actually, the reason I asked goes toward balance. It may just be the photo, but the leg, or part of the table that is the closest to us seems heavy in relation the other side. Is it an optical illusion? While I don't believe balance is critical is all pieces, I'm drawn to it in symmetrical pieces.

I think its how I took the picture. I was standing on a recliner.

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I like the outside the box thinking on this one. You'll have to let us know how it holds up over the years. I am a bit concerned about those miters opening up on your trim should the boards decide to expand on you.

Would coating the bottom of the top in rock hard help to stop it?

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How would you join that together?!

A loose tenon perhaps?I dont know if it would work, but maybe you could do a tongue and groove as well.. Or if you were really talented, you could do a half lap. It works in my head, just hard to explain..

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This was my first big forray into the world of wood working. It was the last half of highschool senior year and after making the other woodshop projects pine toolbox, small clock, inlay box, and pen, the last things the class had to do was drafting in 1/8th, 1/16th ect.. scale and build a table. After seven small draftings the last draft we had to do was of one of the woodworking machines in the shop side, top, and head on view. ie "took a long time" when that was done we then had to draft are table designs and get approval to start. All of that killed about a month, so the seniors had four weeks to build our tables. I knew right then time was factor. Four weeks to go from rough stock to finished product while waiting in line to use the right machine. I was the only senior who wasn't done and had to come back four out of the five days of skip week to still have to take my base and top home to sand, finish and add the walnut trim. Sounds easy right, but do to a number of setbacks this table has been four annoying months in the making. But now I look at this beautiful one-of-akind piece of furniture that I made!that me and my family can enjoy and I'am very happy. I emailed my teacher Mr. Adams yesterday with pictures but have not heard from him yet but hope to soon. With out his help it might not be here. The woodworking machine I drafted was an 8" delta jointer by the way.

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How would you join that together?!

Sac suggested loose tenons and that would work. If I were building it, I'd kinda do a "loose tongue and groove" (hey, a loose tongue is always fun). On each of the miter edges, run a groove with a groove cutting router bit. Say the groove is 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep. Next, you run some stock to create "loose tongues" that are 1/4" thick and a hair under 3/4" wide. By putting them in the grooves, you'd get full registration along the whole edge of the miter (well, up to the stop near the corner).

Getting the center points to match cleanly is a drag (ahem.. how do i know...) You could simplify by lopping off the very tip (cut off a triangle) so there's a flat spot about 1" wide where there was the point. Groove that too. In the middle, put a small 1"x1" square (equally grooved; careful with something small; use a jig to run it).

The loose tongue would also greatly help mitigate the miters opening. In a way this is the flat version of a splined miter.

Hey, hope this tangent isn't taken wrong; the table is great the way it is!! Vic mentioned trying to flow the grain more and I thought this layout would let both figures flow.

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