bleedinblue Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 13 minutes ago, bbaude said: Yeah, I can do 220 or 110. I have 220 in already for the dust collection system. I would just need to do a little math with peak amp draw on both and make sure the breaker (and wire size) allowed for it. @Sac In looking at the one priced at 825, can I drop in more table extensions on the right-hand side? Or is that the maximum as shown? I betcha you're looking at this, right? (I didn't check Sacs links) You can add extensions if needed. It's a great saw for the price and several of us have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 1 hour ago, bbaude said: @Saccan I drop in more table extensions on the right-hand side? Or is that the maximum as shown? Here is a previous saw of mine with cast iron wings run the full length. Cast iron drills super-easy and requires no oil. I matched the 3/8" diameter holes in the fence rails and used 1/4" flat head machine screws to allow me wiggle-room to level the top. This pic also shows the fence tube shifted to the right. It is a no brainer on t-square style fences to just move the tube over one set of holes. The front and rear fence rails are supported by an attached cabinet underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 For the price of that contractor style jet, you should consider a Grizzly cabinet saw (1023 line). It's a beefier saw and I believe most would agree the 1023 design is superior (it's a standard cabinet saw). For those long cross cuts you have two affordable options. Get a good blade for your circular saw, a good straight edge, and a square -or- buy an inexpensive track saw from Grizzly. I have a Makita track saw but it's a tool that I frequently use so I spent the extra money 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuxleyWood Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 14 hours ago, shaneymack said: Festool ts55 is pretty much the best out there. Its got the most bells and whistles and the best warranty. If you can afford it, go with the Festool. The dewalt is not even an option, It has a terrible plunge mechanism. And who really wants to own an ugly yellow saw Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk 2 The TS55 is only the best if you exclude the Mafell which is head and shoulders above the Festool offerings. The Dewalt plunge is not "terrible" it is just a different motion, some like it better, some not as much and some are ambivalent, but is does have more power than the TS55. Over the years I have had the TS55/65/75, the Dewalt corded and cordless and Mafell MT55, no question the Mafell is the best but it is priced like it should be. For me if you have no plans to invest in the Festool ecosystem the big price difference between the Dewalt and Festool with both a long and short track would lead me to suggest the Dewalt. All that said while a tracksaw can do far more than sheet goods if one has the room for a table saw and especially if they don;t use much sheet goods I would go for a good TS first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 I must be drunk because I was thinking this was a table saw thread. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 The Jet Proshop is a well proven hybrid, but if you have 220v available, something like the Grizzly G1023RL/RLW or the G0691/0691 take a step up in class to a 3hp industrial cabinet saw. Much heavier duty, close to twice the power, same footprint, same price range. It's a lot like comparing an S10 to a Silverado 3500. Under the hoods: (Proshop): G1023RL: G0690: Regarding the 50/52" capacity...that's really a decision you'll have to make, but it's pretty simple to slide the front rail tube over on a left tilt saw, and turn 26" rip capacity into 35", or 30" into 40" with very little effort or cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 The TS55 is only the best if you exclude the Mafell which is head and shoulders above the Festool offerings. The Dewalt plunge is not "terrible" it is just a different motion, some like it better, some not as much and some are ambivalent, but is does have more power than the TS55. Over the years I have had the TS55/65/75, the Dewalt corded and cordless and Mafell MT55, no question the Mafell is the best but it is priced like it should be. For me if you have no plans to invest in the Festool ecosystem the big price difference between the Dewalt and Festool with both a long and short track would lead me to suggest the Dewalt. All that said while a tracksaw can do far more than sheet goods if one has the room for a table saw and especially if they don;t use much sheet goods I would go for a good TS first. Well I think the plunge mechanism is "terrible". You don't, thats your opinion. I gave my opinion and thats all I can give. As for the Mafell, I completely agree. From what I have read, they are some of the best tools out there. However the price and the lack of dealers ( 2 in the US and none in Canada) doesn't make them an option for most people. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nestor Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 Anything you can do to minimize manhandling full-size sheet-goods, the better. When I made my roll-out cabinets, I used three tools for cutting large sheet goods, a TS55, SS cabinet saw and the sliding attachment. The TS55 was used to rip the goods to approximate width, leaving one dead-straight edge to make repeatable final rip-cuts on the table saw. Then I cross-cut to length with the slider attachment. YMMV ETA: I'd go with the TS55 and the 4ft guide for trimming large table-top glue-ups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jplemons Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 I'd buy a Sawstop long before I'd ever consider a Grizzly. And a Festool track saw before any other brand. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 3 hours ago, jplemons said: I'd buy a Sawstop long before I'd ever consider a Grizzly. ... For ~ $1600 you get a Saw Stop contractor saw with a 1.75hp outboard motor, steel wings, lamo fence, and a splayed leg base. I'd likely wan't cast wings and a better fence, making it closer to $2k to make it a respectable saw. For < $1400 delivered for a G1023RL, you get 500# of industrial cabinet saw with massive internals, large hand wheels, solid cast iron wings, full enclosure, vertical thread with dovetail ways, and a heavy duty Biese style fence....it's a bunch more saw IMO, and leaves money for a good blade and mobile base before approaching the base price of a SS contractor saw. The Saw Stop won't bite your fingers, but you'd need to spend close to $3k with Saw Stop to get that much saw with a PCS. It's an executive decision for the OP for sure. IMO, Grizzly offers the most bang for the buck, while SS offers more safety at the expense of less saw in this price range. All boils down to individual preference and comfort level. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 Id get the grizzly before Id spend all that on a contractor saw also. I no its a bad thing to say here but even If I had lots of money a Saw Stop is not my choice. All I could afford was a Jet cabinet saw and its fine with me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jplemons Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 4 hours ago, knotscott said: For ~ $1600 you get a Saw Stop contractor saw with a 1.75hp outboard motor, steel wings, lamo fence, and a splayed leg base. I'd likely wan't cast wings and a better fence, making it closer to $2k to make it a respectable saw. For < $1400 delivered for a G1023RL, you get 500# of industrial cabinet saw with massive internals, large hand wheels, solid cast iron wings, full enclosure, vertical thread with dovetail ways, and a heavy duty Biese style fence....it's a bunch more saw IMO, and leaves money for a good blade and mobile base before approaching the base price of a SS contractor saw. The Saw Stop won't bite your fingers, but you'd need to spend close to $3k with Saw Stop to get that much saw with a PCS. It's an executive decision for the OP for sure. IMO, Grizzly offers the most bang for the buck, while SS offers more safety at the expense of less saw in this price range. All boils down to individual preference and comfort level. I saved long and picked up extra shifts to afford my Sawstop PCS -- I do not regret it one bit. I considered the contractor versions but decided against it and was able to clear enough space in my garage for the 36" version. I did look at Grizzly, but I bought a piece from them once and don't trust them at all. I know others swear by them, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 29 minutes ago, jplemons said: I saved long and picked up extra shifts to afford my Sawstop PCS -- I do not regret it one bit. I considered the contractor versions but decided against it and was able to clear enough space in my garage for the 36" version. I did look at Grizzly, but I bought a piece from them once and don't trust them at all. I know others swear by them, though. I'm 29 minutes ago, jplemons said: I saved long and picked up extra shifts to afford my Sawstop PCS -- I do not regret it one bit. I considered the contractor versions but decided against it and was able to clear enough space in my garage for the 36" version. I did look at Grizzly, but I bought a piece from them once and don't trust them at all. I know others swear by them, though. I'd love to hear from someone who has owned both a Grizzly 1023 or 690, and then also a SawStop cabinet saw. It would be interesting to get the contrast and hear about the features they like better on the SS (besides the brake). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 By the way, is two or three dowels as strong (or STRONGER?!) than a Domino?? #pointlessdebate 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osgw380 Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 I have the g1023slwx3. It had a 3phase motor that I changed to a 5hp single phase. The saw is a beast and takes whatever I shove at it. If I bought new I would not however buy the extra rip capacity I just don't use it in my shop. Right now I have my bandsaw sitting between the rails to aid in shop space. I also have a g1021 planer and a jet 14" bandsaw I only say this to show my main point about grizzly and their superior customer service. Lets face it these are machines and will need parts/repairs from time to time. When I replaced the motor I called up grizzly they got me to a knowledgeable rep who got me everything ordered I needed to do the swap. Also on my planer (which is a discontinued model) I have ordered parts with no problems. You can pull up parts diagrams even on discontinued machines and order the parts no problem. Now on the opposite end of customer service I can use my jet bandsaw. It had a bent bracket that holds the top shaft and I could not get it from jet their website said it was an unavailable part. I pulled up the diagrams on a very similar grizzly ordered the part and it fit perfect. I have to this point bought used machinery and if I buy new in the future it will be grizzly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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