woodbutcher Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Hey everybody, Ive been wanting a hand plane to help fine tune joinery such as tenons. I think this is typically done with a shoulder plane, but ive seen it done with a router plane too. Ideally, id like to have both, and im sure someday i will, but for now one or the other will have to do. So my question is, which plane is going to be the most useful plane to have first, a router plane or a shoulder plane? Thanks alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Personally, a shoulder plane is more suited for tuning tenons and the shoulders of tenons. Tuning a tenon with a router plane can be done, but if your tenon is kinda long, one side of the router plane has no place to register on, so you have to align another piece next to it to keep it level. With a shoulder plane you don't need a second piece. I have used a Stanley #78 as a shoulder plane, and that works just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher Posted August 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Thanks Richard. I have been leaning towards a router plane first since they have the functionality of a shoulder plane with tenons, but can do dados and grooves as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Ti's better suited for Rabbets and dados, it has support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Shoulder plane for shoulders, rabbet block for cheeks, router plane for dadoes and grooves. I'd buy a large shoulder plane or rabbet block before the router plane if tenons are what you need to work on. You can do smaller tenons with the router plane but it's not the ideal tool. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 To Richard's point, you can often get a Stanley 78 for pretty cheap. I've been using one my dad bought in the 70s for rabbets and tuning tenons. It's ugly, but it works. I got lucky and found a router plane for cheap too, but they're less common. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 The shoulders are best tuned with a chisel. The router plane is the only plane that will ensure that the cheeks are parallel. A shouler plane excels in tuning rebates and, to a lesser degree, shoulders. Regards from Perth Derek 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted August 29, 2017 Report Share Posted August 29, 2017 My Veritas medium shoulder plane was my favorite hand plane till I got the Veritas large shoulder plane. Seriously, they are the best tool for their intended purpose and when you need one and have one, you'll smile every time you use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted August 29, 2017 Report Share Posted August 29, 2017 I use a rabbeting block plane to tune the cheeks of a tenon. The shoulders I tune with ... a shoulder plane. A chisel can also be used for the shoulders as Derek mentions. But you can do both operations easily with a shoulder plane. Get a 3/4" one from any manufacturer - Stanley, Veritas, Woodriver (AKA Quangsheng), Lee Nielsen, Clifton etc. and keep it sharp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher Posted August 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2017 Thanks for the responses guys. Sounds like a shoulder plane is going to be the way to go for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 I have several sizes of each, that I've had for over 30 years. My shoulder planes have lost a fair amount of their nickel plating over the years from use, while my router planes look almost new. I wouldn't want to be without either, but the difference in wear from use is obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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